FAQ: Rough / Slow / No Start - Symptoms, Causes, Solutions

Thanks Rick!

It looks like it would work to me. Let's see what Mr. AlbertJ says.

The crimper was $17 at the store and $18 something at the website. I'm not sure how that deal worked out. I happened to get the district manager when I walked in. He whipped out a book from 2005-ish that had it priced at $12, but the in store price for 2010 was $20? He punched buttons and made the lower price happen.

Jack the R wrote:

Thanks Rick!

It looks like it would work to me. Let's see what Mr. AlbertJ says.

The crimper was $17 at the store and $18 something at the website. I'm not sure how that deal worked out. I happened to get the district manager when I walked in. He whipped out a book from 2005-ish that had it priced at $12, but the in store price for 2010 was $20? He punched buttons and made the lower price happen.

Looks fine. Suggest you consider taping a spare fuse next to the install.

Albertj

Fuse holder ordered . . .

What size fuse do you plan on using.?
And do they have them in stock or do you have to order them also.?
That size and type fuse is not an everyday item. Might want to ask about it and I would recommend 200 amp, unless someone else has a smarter suggestion.
This is coming direct off the battery and down to the underhood connector, isn't it.? I've forgotten how this thread began.

I'm open to suggestions on fuses, and I'll see what, if anything, it comes with when I get it.

The fuse holder will be going under the seat, next to the battery, crimped onto the original positive cable.

Jack the R wrote:

The fuse holder will be going under the seat, next to the battery, crimped onto the original positive cable.

OK, so the positive battery cable comes from the battery to the fuse holder, what comes off the other side of the fuse holder and where does it go (what diameter or AWG wire) and what will it be powering.?
This is needed to know what size wire and fuse to use.

Just imagine the fuse holder spliced into the current positive battery cable.

the pump is tight. When I put the new s/c coupler on I checked and it's tight.

I read about a post regarding steering shudder and a tsb...I think I may investigate that.

Nate,
Please Recap.
Just what is the problem your experiencing in detail.
May be able to provide some insight before replacing more parts.

Natesriv wrote:

I read about a post regarding steering shudder and a tsb...I think I may investigate that.

Here's the TSB. I will note that my '97, which is only supposed to need a new pressure hose, was not cured by replacing the pressure hose...

Steering Vibration/Shudder During Parking Manuever (Install Power Strg Pressure Hose Assm) #99-02-32-007A - (Jan 31, 2001)
Steering Vibration/Shudder/Moan During Parking Maneuvers on Dry Pavement (Install Power Steering Pressure (Inlet) and/or Return (Outlet) Hose Assembly)

1995-99 Buick Riviera

1997-2001 Buick Park Avenue, Ultra

2000-2001 Buick LeSabre

2000-2001 Pontiac Bonneville

This bulletin is being revised to add the 2001 model year and to update the parts information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-02-32-007 (Section 2 -- Steering)
Condition

Some customers may comment on a steering vibration, shudder or moan noise when steering during parking maneuvers on dry pavement.
Correction

Install a new power steering pressure (inlet) hose assembly on the following vehicles:

* 1995-98 Buick Riviera
* 1997-98 Buick Park Avenue and Ultra

Install a new power steering pressure (inlet) and return (outlet) hose assembly on the following vehicles:

* 1999 Buick Riviera
* 1999-2001 Buick Park Avenue and Ultra
* 2000-2001 Buick LeSabre
* 2000-2001 Pontiac Bonneville

Diagnosis

Important

In diagnosing the above listed vehicles, do not overlook other obvious repairs prior to replacing the hose(s).

1. Verify that the power steering pump reservoir is full.
* If fluid level is low, fill and check for leaks.
* If power steering system has air in the system, perform the "Bleeding Air from Power Steering System" procedure as described in the Power Steering System sub-section of the Service Manual.

Important

When performing the "Bleeding Air from Power Steering System" procedure, it is important that the front of the vehicle is supported by the lower control arms. If the vehicle is not supported by the lower control arms, the procedure may cause the strut bushing to dislocate and cause new concern.
2. Verify that the accessory drive belt is in good condition and that the pulleys are not bent or damaged.
3. Verify proper belt tension and operation of the belt tensioner.
4. Check for power steering hose ground out conditions.
5. Check for good engine idle and correct engine RPM.
6. Check to see that the rear transaxle mount does not have a plastic assembly aid installed which is used for assembly purposes. If the assembly aid is installed, remove the assembly aid and install the rear transaxle mount.
7. With the vehicle on dry pavement, maneuver the vehicle in parking positions. If the steering vibrates/shudders or moans in this test, replace the power steering pressure hose and/or the harmonic balancer.

Important

A defective harmonic balancer on the 1995 Buick Riviera can influence steering vibrations after power steering hose installation.

Important

When installing the pressure hose on the 1995 Buick Riviera, pull down on the pressure hose at the rear of the engine or bend the hose to allow clearance between the hose and the front of the dash.

Power Steering Pressure (Inlet) Hose Replacement Procedure

For 1995-1998 Vehicles:

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
2. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking in the General Information section of the Service Manual. Drain the power steering fluid.
Refer to Draining the Power Steering System in the Power Steering section of the Service Manual.

3. Remove the power steering gear assembly heat shield.
4. Disconnect the power steering pressure hose from the power steering pump assembly.
5. Remove the bolt/screws from the retaining clips.
6. Disconnect the power steering pressure hose from the power steering gear assembly.
7. Remove the power steering pressure hose assembly from the vehicle.
8. Install the power steering pressure hose assembly to the vehicle.
9. Connect the power steering pressure hose to the power steering pump assembly.
10. Connect the power steering pressure hose to the power steering gear assembly.
Tighten the power steering pressure hose to the steering gear to 27 N·m (20 lb ft).
11. Install the bolt/screws to the retaining clips (3).
Tighten the retaining clip bolt/screws to 6 N·m (53 lb in).
12. Install the power steering gear assembly heat shield.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Fill and bleed the power steering system using, J 43485.
Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 83-32-09, dated November, 1998.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Power Steering Pressure (Inlet) and Return (Outlet) Hose Replacement Procedure
[NOTE: On these vehicles, the new Return Hose runs around the whole engine compartment, rather than up & back on only the passenger side.]

For 1999-2001 Vehicles:

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
2. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking in the General Information section of the Service Manual. Drain the power steering fluid. Refer to Draining the Power Steering System in the Power Steering section of the Service Manual.
3. Remove the LH front wheel/tire assembly.
4. Remove the LH lower splash shield.
5. Remove the lower radiator air deflector (engine splash shield, if installed.)
6. Remove the power steering gear assembly heat shield.
7. Disconnect the power steering pressure hose and the return hose from the power steering pump assembly.
8. Remove the bolt/screws from the retaining clips.
9. Disconnect the power steering pressure hose and the return hose from the power steering gear assembly.
10. Remove the power steering pressure and return hose assemblies from the vehicle.

11. Drill two 6 mm (¼ in) holes into the top surface of the LH engine frame longitudinal crossmember for the new return hose clips.
12. Both holes are to be approximately 35 mm (1.5 in) rearward from the front and rear control arm brackets horizontal flange edge. Remove the two rosebud clips from the new hose assembly.
13. Install the two rosebud clips into the holes drilled.
14. Install the new LH-routed power steering return/outlet hose assembly:

* From the forward side of the front engine mount, route the pump end of the hose assembly to the RH side of the vehicle, along the RH engine frame crossmember and up to the steering pump assembly.

* Route the steering gear end of the hose assembly to the LH side of the vehicle, rearward along the LH engine frame crossmember and up to the steering gear assembly.

15. Install the power steering pressure/inlet hose assembly to the vehicle.
16. Connect the power steering pressure and return hoses to the power steering pump assembly.
17. Connect the power steering pressure and return hoses to the power steering gear assembly.
Tighten the power steering pressure and return hoses to the steering gear to 27 N·m (20 lb ft).
18. Install the bolt/screws to the retaining clips (5).
Tighten the retaining clip bolt/screws to 6 N·m (53 lb in).
19. Install the power steering gear assembly heat shield.
20. Install the lower radiator air deflector (engine splash shield).
21. Install the LH lower splash shield.
22. Install the LH front wheel/tire assembly.
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. Fill and bleed the power steering system, using J 43485.
Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 83-32-09, dated November, 1998.


Parts Information


1995-98 Buick Riviera
1997-98 Buick Park Ave & Ultra

26059162 Power Steering Pressure/Inlet Hyd Hose Assembly (with Magna Steer)

1997-98 Buick Park Ave Ultra

26060025 Power Steering Pressure/Inlet Hyd Hose Assembly (w/o Magna Steer)

1999 Buick Riviera
1999-2001 Buick Park Ave & Ultra
2000-2001 Buick LeSabre
2000-2001 Pontiac Bonneville

26079289 Power Steering Pressure/Inlet Hyd Hose Assembly (with Magna Steer)

1999 Buick Riviera
1999-2001 Buick Park Ave & Ultra
2000-2001 Buick LeSabre
2000-2001 Pontiac Bonneville

25727230 Power Steering Return/Outlet Hyd Hose Assembly (with Magna Steer)

AA,
How about making the above a write up for power steering hose replacement per TSB 99-02-32-007A. ??

I went out with the new stuff to check how well it'd all work together and - crap, it looks like the positive battery cable on the Riv is 3/32's bigger in diameter than the 2 gauge cable I bought. Does that sound right for a 1 gauge cable?



The accessory takeoff on the Riv is also about twice as big as the lead on the aftermarket cable. Does anyone know what the gauge of the Riv's accessory wire is?

Jack the R wrote:

I went out with the new stuff to check how well it'd all work together and - crap, it looks like the positive battery cable on the Riv is 3/32's bigger in diameter than the 2 gauge cable I bought. Does that sound right for a 1 gauge cable?

Your saying that the OEM Battery Cable that runs from the battery up to the underhood connector is larger than the pre-made cable you bought to go from the Battery to the new Fuse/Terminal block. Yes or No ?

The accessory takeoff on the Riv is also about twice as big as the lead on the aftermarket cable. Does anyone know what the gauge of the Riv's accessory wire is?

I do not know the gauge of the secondary wire coming off the battery cable.(is that what your asking) just want to be sure.


This is partly why I always make my own cables. Get the correct diameter cable and terminal ends and you are able to not only cut them to the correct length but also crimp the correct size connectors on the ends. And apply heat shrink tube to the connections.
For your Top Post battery connector, just get a simple $1.59 connector at the local NAPA or other auto prts store. They will also have the diameter cable you need by the foot and you can return that pre-made battery cable that is the wrong diameter.

Yes, the OEM cable is larger than the aftermarket cable.

IIRC someone here said to get 2 gauge so I got 2 gauge - it's not the fault of the aftermarket cable manufacture. Just another SNAFU.

an inexpensive way out might be to get a length of cable at a pick-n-pull. Surely they have a 90's caddy you can dissect.

Albertj

No pick'n'pull in KY.

Jack the R wrote:

No pick'n'pull in KY.

As many cars as are crushed, it's not hard to imagine that a salvage yard might give you (or maybe give you for a buck) a length of such cable out of a car they are about to demolish, if you ask.

Albertj

Tractor Supply has a 1 gauge cable on their site. By the time I drive to wherever a salvage yard is, I'd burn enough gas that it'd only save me a buck or two over buying new.

Why not order a new + cable from MonsterPartsOnline or such? Then you have the right cable, with the right ends crimped on the right way. No more guessing.

It's not easy to get a _good_ crimp on cable that big unless you have the specialized crimping tools.

I think this thread all started by wanting to use a top post cable connector for his after market battery. And I assume just cutting off the side terminal connection left the cable too short.
So to accommodate what he wanted to do, he was going to use a top post pre-made cable about 12" to 18" long that terminated with a ring type terminal end.
Then just attach that ring terminal to a post (like what is under the hood) and then put a ring terminal on the existing cable, after having been cut to the proper length.
This would allow an easy and clean modification.
But Jack's car being Jack's car does not ever allow an easy solution. He tends to get the incorrect parts ( not his fault) that screw him up, and living out in the middle of nowhere doesn't help him.
I think he is on the right track though.

Deek - I've got a hammer-style crimper. It looks potent . . . If that's not good enough than I'm gonna be peeved

Jack the R wrote:

Deek - I've got a hammer-style crimper. It looks potent . . . If that's not good enough than I'm gonna be peeved

JR,
The largest I've used that crimping tool on was a #4 so far and makes a good connection, If it's used correctly.
I have used it on smaller connectors and have noticed that the larger you go with it the better the connection turns out.
Although it does have a Maximum cable size, which is twice the size of what your using although i have forgotten what that is at the moment, but it is marked on the side of the tool. Just remember to cut your cable to length, strip enough insulation off it so that it fits in the connector and put the tool on a solid steel bench or concrete, line up your connector the way it is supposed to be in the tool and give it a good solid hit with a 2 lb or so mallet. Check how well it crimped and if necessary give it another whack. DO NOT try and do this in the car on the floorboards.
Another suggestion is to try and get a small length of the correct diameter heat shrink tube and put it on the cable before crimping so you can slide it partly over the connector and exposed cable for a cleaner and safer connection.
They will have some where you buy the cable, I would think. Or if you have a hard time finding some, let me know.

Hi, here is my problem, when my car hasn't started for a wile, one hour or more, I have to crank it up foor a few seconds..5 to 9 seconds before it starts.
I changed many parts, fuel pump, fuel filter, sensor in the air filter area, O2, mass air flow, plugs, coil, idle sensor,TPS, once the car started and running it starts perfectly...the fuel economy is fine,
Please help me.
thank you, philippe

I would suspect a small leak in the fuel rail or line. May want to attach a fuel pressure gauge to the rail and see what happens after you shut off the car. It should hold above 40 PSI (or more) hours or even days after the car is turned off.

Look under the hood for a leak. Do you smell any fuel?