Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts

albertj wrote:

98riv wrote:

Any experience with AC Delco replacement strut mounts? Rockauto lists two different numbers 901045 and 501243. Anyone know which one I need?

For your '98 I would get **NEITHER** of those, instead get the Monroe Strut-Mate or Mevotech sets, they come with the spring seats *and* the bearings *and* the boot cap *and* the bolts. Monroe # 902972, Mevotech same number (it is a copy of the Monroe kit). You may need all those parts depending on who/how your last install was done.

This comment is based on experience with all 3. I have not worn out a Monroe mount before the associated strut quit. I went thru 2 delco mounts (dealer installed - ouch) with a set of KYB struts and finally switched over to the Monroes. The OE Delco mounts I had were made in India, had cork (not rubber) plate insulators. They seemed good. I have always wondered if there was not some installation error (again -- dealer installed) with them.

They were the original struts and mounts on the car. The bearing definately needs to be replaced. Is this the mount you like http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-902972-Strut-Mate-Strut-Mounting/dp/B000CD570S/? The only review is negative though. The Monroes would ship quicker, so that would be a plus. I just don't want to order the KYB's again with the problem I just had.

I just read that review, and I think it is incomplete because the poster says **Nothing** about why the mounts were a bad decision.

In my case the OE mounts were a bad decision because the KYB struts popped the rubber. If you care to you can search this site for my posts about that. I don't care what mounts you get but since you sincerely ask for input I sincerely stated that in my experience either the mevotech or Monroe mounts are good alternatives to the OE mounts.

I ordered the Monroe's last night. Hopefully the correct mounts are in the box unlike the KYB's.

Got the new Monroe mount's installed today. Fit perfectly and seemed like quality mounts. The stock rubber mounts still looked fine, but the bearings were shot. They were stiff and you could hear the bearings shake around. I ended up using the stock dust covers and bumpers. The KYB bumper was to tall and would need to be trimmed before it would allow the mount to be attached to the strut.

Some tips and info:

• Use Kroil or something similar on the bolts before you attempt to remove them. Mine were a little rusty and it helps prevent problems.
  
  Make sure everthing is aligned correctly before you tighten the nut on top of the strut. Pay attention to the location of the plastic nubs that stick up out of the mount and how it is mounted on the strut. The Monroe strut mount kit comes with a new wedge that has arrows that point to the mount holes. Make sure to follow that or else you will have to go back and fix it.The parts have to go back together the exact way they came off the car.
  
  Make sure that you have the bearing facing the correct way.
  
  I needed a torx and 24 mm to loosen the nut on top of the strut for the original struts. The KYB required an allen key instead of the torx.
  
  An impact wrench is extremely helpful. You don't need one, but it makes removing the 24 mm strut bolts a lot easier and quicker.

This is what I ended up using:
2 - KYB 335045 Excel-G OE Replacement Strut (new version than the ones listed in write up.)
2 - Monroe Upper Coil Spring Insulator 904942 (May or may not need these. Uppers were worn out, but lowers were fine).
2 - Monroe 902972 Strut-Mate Strut Mounting Kit (Comes with everything you need and seems to be better quality than the KYB mount.)

98riv wrote:

Make sure that you have the bearing facing the correct way.

so which way is the correct way? Im installing new bearing next week and would like to know beforehand. They may have been installed incorrectly last time since it was apart for like a week while i worked out the kinks in swapping parts from a 96 to a 98 riv.

Thanks!
Matthew

Mr.Riviera wrote:

98riv wrote:

Make sure that you have the bearing facing the correct way.

so which way is the correct way? Im installing new bearing next week and would like to know beforehand. They may have been installed incorrectly last time since it was apart for like a week while i worked out the kinks in swapping parts from a 96 to a 98 riv.

Thanks!
Matthew

If you look at the picture at the top of this page, the black part should be facing the black plastic wedge. I will try to find a picture.

Edit: This is the best I can find right now. Ignore the location of the wedge that is under the bearing, but notice how the black part of the bearing is facing


From clubgp

Per Rock Auto and a few other Google-ing efforts, it appears that KYB now has a GR-2 strut for the 97:  KYB Part # 334677


Unless that is somehow incorrect, we may want to update Aaron's first post in this thread with that information where he says:

AA wrote:

‘95-‘99 Riviera Suspension Changes

The Riviera’s suspension geometry was changed from ’96 to ’97, and then again in ’98. The KYB part # for the ’98 model struts is: KYB-335037. For ’95-’96 the part # is: KYB-236007. There is no known part # for the '97 year. ’99 models should be the same as ’98, but there could be slight differences, so do the research before buying.

How important is it to replace the strut mount when installing the KYB shocks?? I'm putting together a rim, tire and shock package through tire rack. trying to keep the wife from getting a heart attack with the bill.

Pretty important. Struts don't get changed that often. There's a good chance the mounts won't last till the next strut replacement. You must remove the struts and springs to install new mounts.

I'll be doing this job this weekend. I have the KYB struts however I had trouble finding KYB mounts that were in stock so I went to Orileys and got a set of mastercraft mounts. I'm thinking this should only take me a few hours as I have pretty much done a shock replacement on my last 3 vehicles. I'm excited to feel the new ride.

I'm pretty sure the shocks are supposed to extend at rest...

Dang bro.......

So can anyone else confirm that the only difference between the 95/96 strut mounts and the 97+ are the cup washers? My mounts are in decent enough condition so I don't really want to change them out if I don't have to.

Can anyone post a picture of the lower spring seat installed on 97+ struts?

Not sure if it shows exactly what you need, but here's one:

Odd question, but...

I've never actually replaced a strut before, but I've had my whole front end apart... How long would you guys say it would take someone who's pretty decent with a wrench to replace both front struts? Like, should I plan on starting this job after work, or should I wait till the weekend?

That depends. Do you have a Spring Compressor? If not, you aren't doing it.....

I was planning to rent the widowmaker style ones from O'Reilly

LOL "widowmaker". Not sure how long it would take with hand tools, but I can do a set of struts on an older car like that in a little more than an hour. Now, I have a spring compressor attached to the wall right next to my box, so that knocks a considerable amount of time off of the process. I don't see why you can't get them done in about 2 hours. It's only 7 bolts. That's including the two 10mm bolts that hold the brake hose and WSS, the 3 plate bolts, and 2 knuckle bolts.

It's pretty easy once you get the strut out. I pulled my wife's strut a couple nights ago, compressed it and reinstalled in about 1 1/2. Be careful to aim the axis of the spring away from things you value, like your face. Use a cloth, like a red shop rag, to insulate the spring from the compressor (so you don't chip the spring paint). PRO TIP: use impact gun to speed up tightening the compressor, otherwise it'll take 10x as long. See page 1 for more tips and warnings. Good luck!

To add to the "tips", pay attention to the direction of the upper bearing. It's tapered, and is only designed to go in one way. It WILL go in the wrong way, but will eventually fail. I'd use a paint pen or something to mark the low spot. You can use the upper plate studs as a reference.

EDIT: If you don't separate the bearing assembly from the mount, you don't have to worry about this. If you do plan on separating the two, make a mark on both for reassembly.

If you can get your hands on a good impact the job can be done in less than 2 hours. The impact makes tightening the spring compressors go a lot faster and it makes getting the top nut off a million times easier. Some people don't recommend using an impact on the compressors but plenty of people do it without issue. Just make sure they don't start slipping off and be sure to use whatever locking mechanism they have.

For the top nut, I can't see any better way than an impact. If you use a normal socket/ratchet combo you will most likely just spin the entire strut shaft without loosening the nut. The impact will zip it off so fast that the strut shaft can't spin fast enough to cause an issue. Either way soak everything in PB every day for a week before you do this.

As for the bottom 2 bolts I prefer to do them by hand, especially if you order camber bolts (which you really should). I use my breaker bar on one side and my torque wrench on the other (both 1/2" drive and both ~2ft long). These will be stupid tight so leverage is key.

Thanks for the great write-up! I'm not one to do work on my own vehicle, but after getting a quote to replace struts and shocks, I was shocked. So I replaced them myself over the weekend and saved $631 over what the local shop was going to charge me.

Shop quote:
$230 Monroe Sensa-Trac Struts
$214 Strut Mounts
$188 Monroe Max-Air MA822 rear shocks
$  87 Alignment
$335 Labor
$1054 Total

Actual cost:
$170 Monroe Sensa-Trac Struts
$108 Strut Mounts
$  64 Monroe Max-Air MA822 rear shocks
$  69 Alignment
$  12 Craftsmen 24mm wrench
$423 Total

My car has 66,400 miles and the parts were original to the vehicle. What a difference it makes in the ride with the struts that actually work! Thanks again.

Is there a way to get some oil to the upper strut bearing w/o replacing, it is just dry I think. Creaky when cold and when turning corners.

Nope, strut needs to come out. Its not a super tough job, really, and you should do both sides. Our cars are relatively hard on front struts. Struts and bearings should be replaced about every 100k miles - maybe 130k or so for bearings. That's better life than you see from a lot of 'quality' cars.