Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts

Unfortunately, the pics were lost. I used AOL to host them, and without notice, they just discontinued the service and deleted the accounts & photos. I am sure they exist somewhere on my back-up; I'll try to find them as soon as I can.

Thanks,

AA

I don't know why but all of AA's writeups are like this, they no longer have the pictures he took on them....only descriptions.

Only two of the write-ups are affected: KYBs and Rockers. I have the rocker install photos, will be fixing soon. Everything else should be fine.

I had asked for help in this thread: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/board-news-f2/attn-help-w-missing-images-t4448.htm

Any help is appreciated.

I am working on a 95 riv for a friend. Now that we did the brakes and got it running good, we need to do something about the suspension.

My first thought was eibach pro kit and KYB GR2's.....since Ive done a similiar setup on similiar cars and it worked out really well.

I Have had KYB's in a lot of my cars for years, and even though I recently had a set fail on me, I still have faith in them. Any thoughts? Anyone else running, also where is a good place to pick them up?

The KYB GR2 struts are only made for the 98-99 model rivs and have slightly different mounting plates and everything. A 95 has to be updated to the later control arms & spindles and stuff in order to use those struts.

It can be done though

turtleman wrote:

Search through the forum to get the complete and correct details but what I remember is the 99 cadillac sts springs from eibach work and drop it nearly 2 inches from factory. The KYB GR2 struts are only made for the 98-99 model rivs and have slightly different mounting plates and everything. A 95 has to be updated to the later control arms & spindles and stuff in order to use those struts. I would have to assume the same needs to be done to use those springs since they fit the later strut setup as well.

It can be done though

Do the KYB Struts really not work for '95 & '96?
I have a pair in my Rock Auto shopping cart right now that say they fit '95 & '96.
KYB GR-2 Part # 236007
Heck, even KYB's site lists it as fitting.

LOL!
Now that Aaron moved this to the proper thread, I see my answer on page 1.



Thanks!

Being off work without pay has given me some time to work on the Riv. Our company is slow right now so rather than lay people off they are making us take 4 weeks off throughout the rest of the year on furlough. I just replaced the front two struts at a total of 4hrs. I should probably have it aligned now right? I put the struts as close to the original locations as I could. My '96 has 175K on it and I can almost say for certain that they were the original struts.

An alignment is recommended, yes. Necessary for sure? I don't know.

Absolutely go get an alignment. I ruined a brand new set of tires very quickly when I didn't have mine done when I replaced my struts. You can probably get a front alignment done fairly cheaply.

I got my alignment done today and my right front camber was way off. The guy said something about the strut not being adjustable so they would have to cut a slot into the strut and it would cost an extra $40. Without it they stated they could not get the wheel to sit straight.

Anyone ever heard of this and is it normal?

Whats up with all this thread moving business. What does this have to do with installing kyb struts?

manofmany wrote:

I got my alignment done today and my right front camber was way off. The guy said something about the strut not being adjustable so they would have to cut a slot into the strut and it would cost an extra $40. Without it they stated they could not get the wheel to sit straight.

Anyone ever heard of this and is it normal?

They need to elongate the holes in the strut tower to allow for movement of the strut forward and aft to adjust caster.
Mine needed to be done this way also, but they didn't charge extra for it the second place I brought it.
The first place tried to tell me it was non-adjustable period. I had already left a copy of the section of the factory repair manual, that explains how to adjust the front end and it explains the need to slot or elongate the holes, sitting in the car on the passenger seat.
The tech chose not to read it so I chose not to pay them..

I understand. I really need to pick up an FSM set soon.

Unfortunately while an alignment is relatively cheap (cost me $30) it's not always easy to get it done right. The guys who do this job are not always America's best and brightest, nor do they care about you or your old Buick. They will probably want to give you the "quick fix," which involves elongating the wholes on your strut knuckles (? I forget the terminology) and tightening the bolts with enough torque that they hold in place by the friction of the head and nut on the knuckle. But what happens if the nut starts to come loose? It can suddenly throw off your alignment and potentially cause a wreck.

I've been told the correct way to do the job is with cam bolts, which is what I did. It cost another $30, but if it prevents a wreck it's worth it.

if money is an issue, on youtube there are nice write ups on allignment..ive done it and it came out pretty good...i also have a longacre caster/camber gauge that helps alot....doing an alignment yourself is free!

or just do a web search for, do it yourself alignment...if your patient and are willing to crawl around on the ground you can do a good job..

An alignment around here costs $69.99.

I got my alignment done at Sears. They gave me a printout with exact before and after caster, camber, and toe measurements. Cost about $60 for the front and rears. So far 10k miles on tires with zero wear issues.

The place that did mine is very reputable, atleast I think so. Had it done in the town Eric lives in.

I paid $59.99 for the 4 wheel alignment and $39.95 for the slotting.

I've got a printout and the passenger camber was WAY off, possibly due to the pothole I hit that busted my tire.

The front right camber was -1.2 whereas the specified range is .3 I believe. The toe was way off as well on the front right and front rear. My steering feels much tighter now.

manofmany- was that Raymonds? They are the only ones I trust to do any alignment on my car. the owner (Richard or Derick can"t remember which one is the son) used to be big into SCCA racing and is a wealth of knowledge.

Yep I had it done at Raymonds. Derrick was the guy working behind the counter. I've always heard pretty good things about their shop so i decided to drive up there and let them do it, rather than wait 2 days to have it done locally by some overnight shop.

albertj wrote:

I'll do that. That is - when I take the car in for repair I'll get an explosion from the parts counterguy and talk to the tech.

Based on what you're telling me I think I know what happened. I did not assemble them - but I will have a low-drama word with the person who did... under the circumstances of that assembly, if there were parts missing it's an understandable problem albeit expensive for me depending on if indeed there were parts missing and I can get him to fess up.

Thanks everyone for the input and I'll let you all kinow if there were parts missing or whatever. I suspecct it's just "bad" rubber... see http://www.volvo-forums.com/t21286-upper-strut-mount-spring-seat-failure.htm. If GM has
a physically identical mount for a stiffer suspension, that's possibly what I need.

Albertj

Follow-up:

I blew out another set of strut mounts while drivig in Pittsburgh over the July 4th weekend. The Buick dealer is working on a warrany claim on the installed ones. The shop (Sears there) doing repairs used a set of Monroe plates. The Monroe plates came with a bunch of "extra" hardware, which the tech installed... incorrectly but not fatally it turns out. (I had a Memory Steer problem, bearing plates upside down) I called Tenneco and got someone, oddly enough, familiar with the Riv who explained the problem and at the local Sears, got a tech who understood it and fixed it as well.

I suspect but do not know that the factory bushings were OK but there was some sort of installation issue. The Monroe kit came with these metal caps that go over the strut boots. Those caps are part of the OE boots (which are NLA) - could be something to do with that.

Albertj

Just had my car aligned and it cost me $152 at Midas the f@#$ing crooks. Tell me why they get and extra $40 for each side to adjust camber? They did not have to grind any slots either on the Monroe sensa trac's. All they have to do is loosen up a bolt and pull or push the camber in place.

Midas charged me $200 to replace a broken lug bolt once. Have never been back since. I could have done the entire hub for a lot less.