FAQ: Speaker/Sub/Amp Upgrades with Factory Head Unit

channels 3/4 are NOT allready bridged that is up to the user, you can bridge 1/2 or 3/4 but you have to do it! and the amp is not rated to go below 4ohms wile in bridged mode so you need a four ohm sub, does not matter the size of sub 6"~18" as long as the rms ratings are close. also with that low of power you would like to find a sub with a higher spl (db) rating 94 or higher which smaller sub carry a higher spl than bigger, 10' subs can produce great bass in the right box, then you have three COMMON types sealed, ported or band pass, sealed (rock/country) ported RAP/hiphop n some country. bandpass pure rapp.

hope i helped if you have any more caraudio questions my email is bsnow72@hotmail.com
been doin car audio for 13 plus yrs

I would, like snow0707 suggests, place more emphasis on the sensitivity of the sub because of the small amount of power the amp has. However, in any given line of subs the sensitivity level increases as the size of the sub increases. You will also find that most of the time as the sensitivity of a sub increases, the optimum box size also increases. Also the type of box required is determined more by the subs parameters than the type of music to be played. A sub/enclosure combination that is designed correctly will perform well with any type of music. And yes a 10" sub can sound fantastic, if done right.

Yeah.. its just a 12" pioneer in a smaller probably 1.5 cuft sealed box... on my amp channels 3/4 are already bridged.. it says it on the amp and in the PDF manual I found... and it sounds great. 4ohm sub.. did the research on that before I not it.. so my amp and sub are ohmed.... not sure on DB/frequently... but it does beat hard... but since it is a sealed box it is more of a snap punch bass than the rap slump bass.... I just turn the bass to 3/4 and the fade to 3/8 on the knobs and sounds pretty good. Another thing.. pop offthat plastic guard deal where the factory sub would've mounted... we are also gifted with smaller systems that our trunks and rear quarters are steel because you can feel it outside the car but can't hear it if that makes sense...

Changed out my old Kenwood head unit over the weekend for anewer kenwood unit that has bluetooth and pandora, usb, etc.

When hooking up the steering wheel buttons i see Axxis has a new no-IR style connector that is simpler to install and is hardwired into the back of the head unit.
I occasionally had problems with the older style connector wigging out in direct sunlight or randomly and would up temp when pushing vol down or something.

http://axxessinterfaces.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=197

I think i have everything wired up as the instructions say, but the temp up/down is not working. I have tried to manually change the button mapping with no sucess.
Anyone else use the new ASWC-1 unit? When tapping into the "E5" on the harness, what does that accomplish?