FAQ: Speaker/Sub/Amp Upgrades with Factory Head Unit

Okay AA, I didn't realize you did all of this 6 years ago so it makes a little more sense given the time elapsed. I see your system fell together basically by convenience and in the end you managed to end up with a decent system. Congratulations.

The Point your making on the Riviera being outdated, and buying a 2010 Riviera is abit off the wall. I am taking about spending $150-$200 on an aftermarket deck, and you compare it to a $45,000 purchase of a car? Of course the technology is different but it has no relivance when talking about head units. We are talking about upgrading stereo systems not the automobile itself. Oh and when you are talking about sound quality, yes 1% THD is HORRIBLE!!!! Competition 20,000 watt amps ment for running specifically woofers run @ 5% LOL. Thats why a good to average THD rating on a Class AB amplifier, is normally between 0.05% or 0.02%, Class D usually from 0.10% - 0.50%, sometimes as much as 10%. So yes it does matter... @ least to audiophiles.

Your point about road noise covering up distortion is valid, but again only to a point. Hence the invention of Dynamatt, DEI Boom matt, and other sound deadening materials. This allows for less road noise in your car, and keeps "your" noise in your car.

Your right again on newer crossover, sound processor technologies, and what not allowing for smaller more compact yet comparable systems being available(thank u for highlighting my point about Old Technology "like in OEM headunits" you nailed right on the head). But I hate to burst your bubble if you think any 10" sub will produce the same frequencies and output of a 15" sub with comparable relative sub quality, amplification, and proper enclosures. It's just not so, not at 1 watt, not at 1000 watts, you already know this if you helped Altec Lansing build/design speakers. (Props to you btw A.L. are excellent).
I never said you have to run a 15", or an 18", or anything for that matter. I run 1 12" and have a better system now then I have ever had in my 5 previous sytems over the years. This single 12 sounds, performs, and looks better than all systems I have had in the past. It is the smallest in terms of speaker count but largest in terms of wattage. I promise you you will not find a smaller sub that is comparible to my Mayhem 912. I know this because I spent 2 years researching before I bought, and if you can it won't be for a comparable price.

Ending on a positive note not that I meant any of this in a negative way just a good ole fashioned male pissing contest LOL. I really do respect the fact that you worked for A.L. They really do make and have made a great quality speaker for a very long time. Have a great day!

Nuts and bolts question: This is my amp, Kenwood KAC-746, I want to use it with my stock head unit and upgrade my rear speakers with Infinity Reference 6902i's. I've previously replaced the fronts with Infinity Reference 552i's. After having read through this thread it looks likes a simple straight forward install.

My plan is to mount the amp in trunk, run 2 sets of speaker wires to the front from the A side of the Speaker Level Input. At the same time run 2 sets to the front from the A side of the Speaker Output. Cut the lines to the front speaker, connect lines from SLI to head harness, connect lines from SO to speaker. Repeat for rear. Set switches as per "System examples, Full-range 4-channel + Subwoofer system" just minus the subwoofer hookup.

Does that sound right? Now for power, can I go from "Battery" on my amp to the power antenna, so the unit only powers up when the radio goes on?

That's basically right, except you don't really need to run wires for the speaker-level IN, as you can just tap into the existing wires running to the rear speakers and use those. But if you want to preserve F/R fading from the OEM head, just run one extra pair for the front IN, you can still use the existing rear wires for the rear channels.

As for tapping into the antenna for remote turn on, yes it will work to turn on the amp. Make sure not to use it for constant power though.

I don't recall, does the power antenna go down when a cd is played? If so, using the power antenna as a turn on for the amp won't work for playing a disc.

sqrivi wrote:

I don't recall, does the power antenna go down when a cd is played? If so, using the power antenna as a turn on for the amp won't work for playing a disc.

I think it does go down. I know that with my aftermarket Alpine it does when I play a CD. Pretty sure it did the same with the factory unit.

On my '95, the antenna stays up anytime the radio is on. Even with cd and tape. It may be different on newer models though.

AA wrote:

That's basically right, except you don't really need to run wires for the speaker-level IN, as you can just tap into the existing wires running to the rear speakers and use those. But if you want to preserve F/R fading from the OEM head, just run one extra pair for the front IN, you can still use the existing rear wires for the rear channels.

As for tapping into the antenna for remote turn on, yes it will work to turn on the amp. Make sure not to use it for constant power though.

Don't I need to put the OEM rear speaker wire to my amp SLI then go from SO to my rear speakers to amp rears and to preserve fade?
Not sure what you mean by this. Can I go from "Power control (REMOTE) lead terminal" to the hot lead for the PA? Does it stay energized as long as the head unit is powered up?

sqrivi wrote:

I don't recall, does the power antenna go down when a cd is played? If so, using the power antenna as a turn on for the amp won't work for playing a disc.

In mine, it's power on, antenna up, no matter what media is played.

The antenna is up whenever the head unit in on.

So I want like one 12" sub... and I don't want to splice anything or replace the stereo.... I guy I know said to get and output converter and hook my amp up to it... which is hooked up/ spliced to my 6x9 wires.... and run the power to the battery for the amp... and hook up the sub to the amp of course... would this work? Or what us a better way?

I just got my Riv about a month ago and did exactly what you described - output converter was 20 bucks at Canadian Tire, nice to only run a wire under the back seat for power and ground too. I put a 10" sub with a matching amp in - attached the remote turn on lead for the amp to a switched power fuse in the fuse box under the rear seat. I can't remember which one, there isn't a radio one there, but i picked one on the acc switch. If you have trouble let me know and I'll go pull the seat and look - it all works perfectly but I will say that the trunk has some good sound deadening, so much so that I may go to a bigger sub and amp.

Yeah... if I'm only running one sub I'm thinking about a 12.... but which acc switch did u run it to? Kindof curious about that..... or what "fuse" because that makes less sense to me... not too keen on the audio part of cars for some reason... I'm good with mechanics but suck ass with electrical.....

The remote turn on line from your amp just needs to have a signal that your acc power is on. So if you wire it to a fuse in your fuse box that gets power in the "on" or "acc" settings on your ignition switch, it will turn on and off with that switch (although if you don't use the radio fuse the amp will still be on when you shut the radio off - this is how mine is set up now) You can either pull the fuse box and add the wire into the fuse clip at the back, or if lazy just wrap a bit of the wire around one of the metal sides of the fuse and jam it back into place - make sure no bits of wire are loose to bridge the fuse or touch any other fuses.

I will look after work which fuse I used exactly, but your fuse boxes on the 96 may not be the same as on the 98, I don't know....

You could also pick up the antenna remote wire in the trunk.This way your amp would only fire up when the radio is on. I believe it is a green wire going to the antenna motor.

Damn Big Dave, I never even thought of that while I was working under the seat - that's a way smarter solution. I might just switch mine to that.

I'm also sure I need to go to a 12", although the stock woofers in the cabin are not terrible....

You'd be surprised what a decent 8" sub with some clean power can do in a very small space. Hint: JL Audio 8W7

This may have been covered before, but does the power antenna go down when playing a cd? If so the amp will shut off.

Sqrivi, the antenna stays powered up anytime the radio is on with the factory head unit. Aftermarket radio could be different.

It is definitely different for the Alpine CDA-9857. There is a blue wire to the head unit that causes the antenna to only be up when the radio is on. It goes down when the CD or iPod is being played.

That's weird - there must be another remote wire on that Alpine. How else can it keep the amps on when playing a CD?

Aftermarket head units have a seperate remote turn on lead for amps, if you have an aftermarket one you should wire the amps to the head unit.

Aftermarket head units that have two remote wires will be......blue/white (amp turn on), and blue (power ant).

If there is only one blue wire than it will be powered whenever the head unit is on. You can use it for both the ant and the amp.

sburch23 wrote:

It is definitely different for the Alpine CDA-9857. There is a blue wire to the head unit that causes the antenna to only be up when the radio is on. It goes down when the CD or iPod is being played.

Yep. My Alpine lowers the Antenna when a CD or IPOD is connected.

Some amps have signal sensing at the speaker inputs for power up. check the spec sheet for your amp before you waste time thinking of a way to power up your amp.

OK now that we discussed that, let's move on to the Orange wire which is supposed to dim the head units with the dash. Has anyone used that? Mine is apparently not hooked up.

OK... so I know y'all are going to think I'm stupid... but I've got a couple questions..

If I get one 12" sub or two 10" subs... (I'm thinking just one sub tho)...

. Do I need a 4channel amp if I am going to tap into the 6x9's...?
. Will the antenna wire power the amp and the antenna....? Is the gauge big enough?
. If I bridge a 4 channel will it still power the 6x9's...?(guessing so)
. If I use an input/output converter... how much will it affect the sound quality...?
. Do I need a capacitor or Farad?.... what about mosfet???
. Is it worth replacing all the speakers or just door speakers...? From what I'm understanding the 6x9's are good enough its just the rears.... or am I getting it backwards?

Thanks guys... I know I suck at this audio stuff... I just want some bass And can get some really good deals if I know I'm not wasting the money