riviera turning over but not getting any spark from module

I changed the ignition module, crank sensor, ECM and plugs but there is no spark coming from the module please help if you can...Thanks!!!

Check all the ground wires. There is one that comes off the Ignition Control Unit and is bolted to the block under the ICM. That one gets broken easily or just corroded.
Remove the coil packs from the ICM and check the condition of the bottoms of them for corrosion, clean with scotchbrite pad or emery paper. Also pull the ICM again and check the underside and top of it for corrosion, same thing there, clean all corrosion and put a light film of dielectric grease on the mating surfaces. All those components need a clean path to ground.

another thing after i changed the PCM it stumbles the entire time it is cranked and the only way it stays cranked is if i hold the gas down (still sounds real rough and you can tell its not getting any gas)

what do you mean 'stays cranked'? Will it start, but run very rough? Or are you holding the starter (cranking)? Please elaborate.

Also, will it not even crank (starter rotating) unless you have the gas pedal pushed to the floor.?
What happens if you lift your foot off the gas pedal while the key is turned to the start position and starter is cranking?
Does it just stop cranking as if you turned the key off.?

95 riv. Changed crank sensor, cam pos, ICM, coil packs. Was hard starting hot, but now no spark at any time. ICM ground is good. Any suggestions?

redbaron wrote:

95 riv. Changed crank sensor, cam pos, ICM, coil packs. Was hard starting hot, but now no spark at any time. ICM ground is good.  Any suggestions?

just post in one thread, or one new thread, next time...

I understand why you changed the crank and cam sensors - one of the most common reasons a car is hard to start when warm is a wack crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. However, it could also be caused by a clogged air filter, faulty battery connection, vapor lock, or one or another bad ground connection (just fixed this, coil grounds, on a Volvo); also by a bad fuel pump (they tend to run good when cool and quit after a while), or bad fuel pressure regulator (they fill with gas, then when the car's off they bleed out),

So tell us, what else did you check? And do you have the factory service manual?