Write-Up: AC Compressor & Clutch Replacement

I think I will go by the FSM, I know myself I charged the system a few times in trying to trace down the leak, some of the cans were part oil too.

Before you take it apart, you need to make sure the system is empty. I recommend having the system evacuated, but, there are other unmentionable ozone-depleting ways to empty it
Be careful, even 60psi out of those dinky holes can do damage.....
Also, make sure to put oil on the new O-rings of every connection you remove. This is so they don't roll when you reinstall.
Tell the shop that charges the air EVERYTHING you have replaced, so they can add more oil for the accumulator (as Albert has mentioned).

Wow funny you posted this, I was just about to order a new compressor and replace it myself also.

I was wondering what I was getting into!

Is it suggested to replace the orifice tube while in there?

Thanks for the tip on the oil, didn't even think of that.

I can't wait to have my A/C back!

When you replace orifice tube be sure to get the variable one. Rivs came standard with it, it's more like $25.00, not $2.50 like the standard orifice and works way better worth the extra money.

Albertj

Cool, thanks for the tip.

Autozone has a variable one for $26.99

Yeah, if you p ut in the standard one the AC takes longer to cool and does not get as cool.

Albertj

Good to know, that is def worth the money IMO.

Now that I look closer they have a standard duty and a severe duty for $10 more.

VJD2 wrote:

Wow funny you posted this, I was just about to order a new compressor and replace it myself also.

I was wondering what I was getting into!

Is it suggested to replace the orifice tube while in there?

Thanks for the tip on the oil, didn't even think of that.

I can't wait to have my A/C back!

If you haven't gotten the compressor yet, I suggest ordering the Delphi from rockauto. It was just over $200 with the receiver shipped for a new unit. Autozone wanted about $250 for just the compressor alone.

albertj wrote:

When you replace orifice tube be sure to get the variable one. Rivs came standard with it, it's more like $25.00, not $2.50 like the standard orifice and works way better worth the extra money.

Albertj

Thanks for the tip, I'll be returning my bargain one, faster AC is worth the price.

albertj wrote:

When you replace orifice tube be sure to get the variable one. Rivs came standard with it,
Albertj

Ahhh, that's why the car didn't cool any better when I told my A/C guy to put a variable orrifice-tube in...

When I bought the car, I just wanted to do preventive maintenance and have the hoses, drier and O-tube replaced. I learned about the variable trick on my old-style R-12 Eldo, to get better cooling at low engine speeds.

I think that my main complaint with this system is due to the variable-displacement compressor... If the car has been parked in the sun, but the actual air temp isn't that high, you don't get max cooling because the pump is running in low-load mode. (Aside from that, I love not having a cycling clutch, or any effect on fuel economy!)

VJD2 wrote:

Good to know, that is def worth the money IMO.

Now that I look closer they have a standard duty and a severe duty for $10 more.

Standard probably means an orifice tube intended for ambient tems up to 105F, and severe means higher ambient tems (like the mojave desert, or Phoenix AZ.) I seriously doubt the severe duty tube is more robust.

If your ambient tems don't go regularly over 105 F in the summer you definitely don't want the severe duty orifice -- if you put it on and ambients are lower, the evaporator tends to ice up especially when running the AC with teh defroster -- which defeats the function (dehumidification).

Albertj

Eldo wrote:

albertj wrote:

When you replace orifice tube be sure to get the variable one. Rivs came standard with it,
Albertj

Ahhh, that's why the car didn't cool any better when I told my A/C guy to put a variable orrifice-tube in...

When I bought the car, I just wanted to do preventive maintenance and have the hoses, drier and O-tube replaced. I learned about the variable trick on my old-style R-12 Eldo, to get better cooling at low engine speeds.

I think that my main complaint with this system is due to the variable-displacement compressor... If the car has been parked in the sun, but the actual air temp isn't that high, you don't get max cooling because the pump is running in low-load mode. (Aside from that, I love not having a cycling clutch, or any effect on fuel economy!)

I have found that during reasonable ambient temp yet a hot cabin, you definitely cannot use the Auto feature of the HVAC, you have to go manual and select 60 degrees, the lowest setting to get it to cool down the cabin then go back to Auto if you wish.

I was not aware of the variable orifice tube, until Albert mentioned it some time ago.
I wonder if that was installed when they replaced my Compressor, Reciever/Dryer and orifice tube assembly a couple of years ago.
Was all done under warranty when my trans was rebuilt.
Anyway to tell externally.

Rickw wrote:

Anyway to tell externally.

No. You would have to separate the pipe and pull it out.

Can you explain what is physically different.
I have only seen the standard orifice tube and filter and was not aware there was such a thing as a Variable one until now.

I am from the old school and haven't any experience on any of the new systems.

http://www.supercool.ac/images/orificetubes.jpg

This link has a great pic. The ones with the black pointy ends are Variable. Notice the difference between the two. Better to show than explain

moldymac wrote:

If you haven't gotten the compressor yet, I suggest ordering the Delphi from rockauto. It was just over $200 with the receiver shipped for a new unit. Autozone wanted about $250 for just the compressor alone.

I ordered a UAC compressor. It comes with a 5 year warranty which none of the others offered but hopefully won't have to use. I'm not sure about the receiver coming with it but at the price I got it for probably not.

Should the receiver or other parts be replaced at the same time as the compressor? One area I'm not familiar with is the A/C system.

albertj wrote:

VJD2 wrote:

Good to know, that is def worth the money IMO.

Now that I look closer they have a standard duty and a severe duty for $10 more.

Standard probably means an orifice tube intended for ambient tems up to 105F, and severe means higher ambient tems (like the mojave desert, or Phoenix AZ.) I seriously doubt the severe duty tube is more robust.

If your ambient tems don't go regularly over 105 F in the summer you definitely don't want the severe duty orifice -- if you put it on and ambients are lower, the evaporator tends to ice up especially when running the AC with teh defroster -- which defeats the function (dehumidification).

Albertj

Ok, I don't think I'll need the super duty one. Thanks.

albertj wrote:

Standard probably means an orifice tube intended for ambient tems up to 105F, and severe means higher ambient tems (like the mojave desert, or Phoenix AZ.) I seriously doubt the severe duty tube is more robust.
Albertj

I'd be more inclined (especially in the aftermarket,) to think that the "severe duty" tube is the actual variable-orifice expansion valve...
(Hell, how 'severe' can the duty change within a closed, dirt & moisture-free refrigerant system...)

Eldo wrote:

albertj wrote:

Standard probably means an orifice tube intended for ambient tems up to 105F, and severe means higher ambient tems (like the mojave desert, or Phoenix AZ.) I seriously doubt the severe duty tube is more robust.
Albertj

I'd be more inclined (especially in the aftermarket,) to think that the "severe duty" tube is the actual variable-orifice expansion valve...
(Hell, how 'severe' can the duty change within a closed, dirt & moisture-free refrigerant system...)

IIRC there are 2 variable orifice tubes available, one for ambients below 105F and the othere for aove 105F. If they want to call them severe duty, well, that's charming -- given that you're right: if you have a closed, clean system the chemistry and physics are not going to just attack the hardware... it'll run for thousands of hours...

Albertj

VJD2 wrote:

moldymac wrote:

If you haven't gotten the compressor yet, I suggest ordering the Delphi from rockauto. It was just over $200 with the receiver shipped for a new unit. Autozone wanted about $250 for just the compressor alone.

I ordered a UAC compressor. It comes with a 5 year warranty which none of the others offered but hopefully won't have to use. I'm not sure about the receiver coming with it but at the price I got it for probably not.

Should the receiver or other parts be replaced at the same time as the compressor? One area I'm not familiar with is the A/C system.

albertj wrote:

VJD2 wrote:

Good to know, that is def worth the money IMO.

Now that I look closer they have a standard duty and a severe duty for $10 more.

Standard probably means an orifice tube intended for ambient tems up to 105F, and severe means higher ambient tems (like the mojave desert, or Phoenix AZ.) I seriously doubt the severe duty tube is more robust.

If your ambient tems don't go regularly over 105 F in the summer you definitely don't want the severe duty orifice -- if you put it on and ambients are lower, the evaporator tends to ice up especially when running the AC with teh defroster -- which defeats the function (dehumidification).

Albertj

Ok, I don't think I'll need the super duty one. Thanks.

Usually when you open the system you should replace the accumulator/drier. They cost about $40 at the parts store. And the orifice tube as well. I picked up the variable one and will see how it does. I plan to install these parts this weekend and if I remeber to I will try to take some pics of the job.

Ok, sounds like a plan. Amazon has an ACDelco for around $30 that I'll probably order with some other stuff to get free shipping on. Wonder if they have the variable tube also?

I ordered my variable orifice from advance, cost about $30. Its a factory air PN 38902. The accumulator I got from rockauto, it was $20 plus shipping for a delco one.

I'm about to order a bunch of stuff from amazon so I'll get the "Super Saver" shipping which makes up for the $2-$3 difference in price.

I can't believe how much stuff you can find on Amazon now a days.

VJD2 wrote:

.

I can't believe how much stuff you can find on Amazon now a days.

I know, it almost like eBay now! That's where I got my oil-pressure sending-unit socket, tranny cooler, tranny-pan drain-plug, and the special cable-operated pliers for the factory hose-clamps... all in one "super saver" order.

Right? I think its better than Ebay at this point! I can't believe how many times I punch in a part number and it pulls up the part and at a great price most of the time. Crazy!

I got the job done this weekend and am happy to say I now have cold air! Heres what was done and some pics that might help. I guess you can call this one a write up!
Before you begin you want to get the remaining (if any) refridgerant recovered. You can have a shop do this or do it on other ways I won't discuss here. If your leak is real bad (like mine) you wont need to do anything at all.

Heres the supplies I bought for the job. A brand new Delphi compressor (don't waste your money on a rebuilt, they never last!), new drier/accumulator, bottle of PAG refrigerant oil, factory air variable orifice tube, 1oz bottle of tracer dye, and a pack of assorted O-rings (I ended up not needing these)


The first thing is to lift the front end up and remove the front passenger wheel and splash guard. The FSM says to remove the cover under the front of the car too, but I see no reason why I had to remove it. Here you can see the lower fitting on the accumulator

Using 2 wrenches, disconnect the lower line on the accumulator and pull it apart by twisting it a bit. Make sure you replace the double O-rings (my new accumulator came with them). Next under the hood remove the one bolt on the relay center, remove it, and push it off to the side. Now remove the one bolt holding the plastic sleeve on the accumulator down to the body. (Didn't get a pic of that!). Break the connection on the top fitting and pull the accumulator out. Be sure to replace the O-rings on this connection too. Now is a good time to clean out years of sand and dirt that you had no idea was hiding behind this!

My system was leaking bad, so I put in the amount of PAG oil the FSM called for. Add 1/4oz of the dye to the pag oil (or as the label on the bottle says if different). Put 3 oz of oil in the accumulator. I used a syringe from a printer inkjet refill kit I never used to measure it. Take the plastic sleeve off the old accumulator and install it the same way on the new one. Make sure you coat the O-rings with PAG oil. Drop it back in the car, connect the lines and torque to 18ft lbs. You can now put the relay center back, but dont put the wheel well back together.

Next change out the orifice tube. It is located between the high and lo side ports by the passenger shock tower. Alldata claimed it was in line under the radiator support, but that is wrong. Just disconnect the fitting between the ports and using needle nose pliers, pull the old tube out. Mine took a little fighting with to pull.

Take a look at the old one and check for debris or metal. Mine was clean except for a ton of dried dye. You might want to flush your system if has an metal in it. Mine didn't so I just installed the new one.
If you are using a variable one like I did, you will notice it is longer than the old one. Oil up the O-rings and push it in. Mine was a royal PITA to get in there and doubt it will ever come out in one piece. Once its in, replace the O-ring, oil the ring and close it back up.


Now on to the compressor. Unplug the wire going to the clutch. Remove the accessory belt and put it out of the way. Make sure your battery is disconnected, to get to the bolt that holds the lines on you have to use an extension and the ratchet sits right up against the positive wire on the starter! Remove The but holding the block with the 2 lines on it and slide the lines off. Sorry, the pictures did not come out of this part. Remove the bolt on the back of the compressor and the 3 nuts on the front around the clutch. Slide the compressor off the studs and out through the wheel well.
You can see in the following pics how bad mine was leaking around the seal.



Compare the 2 compressors and make sure they are compatible. My old one was a delphi, and looked pretty much the same. The new one came with a pressure relief valve pre-installed.

Transfer over the stub between the 2 ports on the back. I used a pair of vice grips and grabbed the part of the shaft that was un-threaded.

Now to oil it. The FSM says to pour out the old oil and measure it. Put back in the same amount that came out unless it was less than 1 oz. Mine had nothing in it, so I added 2oz as the book says. Stand the compressor on its clutch, and slowly add 2oz of PAG oil. I had to turn the clutch a few times for it to take it all. When you are done, slide the compressor back in through the wheel well and back on the studs. As long as you keep the ports towards the top, the oil wont spill out. Tighten the mounting bolt and 3 nuts (can't remember the torque spec). Install the new sealing washers on the lines going to the compressor, do not reuse the old ones! Mine came with new ones, and instructs you to install them dry. Slide the block with the lines onto the new compressor and torque the nut down to 22ft lbs. Plug in the clutch, attach the belt and you are done! You can put the wheel back on and lower the car.

All in all, the job is not really that bad. At this point have a shop leak test, evacuate and charge the system. I was going to have a shop do it, until I found out a friend of mine had a gauge set and vacuum pump. I am happy to say mine held its vacuum for an hour with no leaks. I bought an adapter to use the small cans of 134a and charged it myself. All went well, my AC blows cold and the clutch doesn't grind anymore!

Great write up David!
This is exactly what I need to do to mine BEFORE next summer!

What was your total cost in the end? So I can plan a budget.