Ok so after searching these boards and not seeing any actual write-ups on the subject I decided to make one.
For starters this can be a very easy 5 minute job ( my case ). or this can be a pita depending on the condition of your fuel lines and old filter, if your situation happens to be very old and rusty expect to have more trouble. I lucked out and my lines had absolutley no rust and the filter only a few spots. My filter came off without any use of PB blaster or similar products. If your filter and or lines are very rusted soak the area with PB blaster and let is sit for at least a half hour.
OK, to start your going to obviously need a filter, I was not picky about which one I used, I just grabbed what was on the shelf at the parts store. There is some controversy on the subject so you can do your research if you decide.
Tools required for this job is pretty basic. the compression fitting on the fuel line is a 5/8, the fitting on the filter is larger, either 7/8's or 13/16's, I ended up using vice grips because I did not have a open end in either of these sizes. either way you must have a wrench on the filter to prevent it from spinning. if your filter and line is very rusted a set of line wrenches would be a good idea to prevent stripping.
other misc items can include something to catch the excess fuel in ( such as a oil drain pan ), and rags to keep things clean. It would also be a VERY good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy, after all you are dealing with gas.
The next step is optional, but very easy so I recommend it to keep things clean. under the hood locate the bleed valve on the fuel rail and remove the cap, using something small ( like a small drill bit ) press down on the pin on the valve to relive the pressure. I cut the top of a small water bottle off and ran the drill bit through the center of the cap to prevent fuel from spraying up, I cut the base out of that same bottle and put it under the fuel rail to catch the fuel, this proved to be very successful as no fuel was spilled during this process.
Next locate the location of your filter. At first glance I could not see it, mainly because the filter is actually tucked up under the car and not really visible unless you really get under there. you can always follow the fuel lines under the car to locate the filter. You should be looking under the driver side, just in front of the rear tire.
There she is! I was really lucky with the condition of my old filter, very little rust! this is the first time I have done it since owning the car so im not sure of the age.
Assuming you have already let the compression fitting soak in PB blaster if needed, go ahead and place your fuel catch bin under the filter and break the fitting loose. I clamped the vise grip onto the filter and broke the compression fitting loose with the 5/8's, it was surprisingly easy despite punching myself in the face when it broke free. you should not get any fuel to pour out by simply breaking this fitting loose, however once you separate the filter from the fitting you will get a decent amount of fuel coming from the lines. the filter can now be moved into position for easy removal of the rear fitting.
This should be the easy side, simply locate the two tabs on the clip and squeeze and separate the fuel line from the filter. be careful, more fuel will come from either the fuel line or the filter. now you can compare the new vs. the old.
Now the rest should be fairly simple, install the new filter in reverse order. After the new filter is installed turn the ignition to accessory and allow roughly 5 seconds for the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system before attempting to start the engine. now would be a good time to look for any initial signs of a fuel leak. if everything checks out ok start the engine, it might take a crank or two more than usual , this is normal. now that the engine is running re-check for any leaks. Enjoy!
) from my car? At the moment I just put some SEAFOAM in there. Any comments will be appreciated.