Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)

Write-up is below. For questions & discussion on coupler replacements, please see:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t9160-faq-best-sc-coupler-for-supercharged-riviera

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Just replaced my coupler with one I bought off ebay from seller darossillcusa and wanted to report that it took me about 1.5 hrs to complete the job. Removed the alternator, sucked out all the stinky oil, and pulled the snout. Finished it up by applying some loctite 518 and all is well now. No more rattle at idle.

Ah yes, the rattle-free supercharger. Verry nice. It's not that bad a job is it? And a great write-up on this site too.

That's actually the first thing I did to mine. (Purchased about one year ago.)

Cheers

Paul, was this a black OEM style coupler? Hope you got one of the green longer wearing ones such as ZZP and Intense offer.

Yep, it was indeed the green one.

Can the coupler be replaced without removing SC? How much is the coupler?
Bob

RivGuy wrote:

Can the coupler be replaced without removing SC? How much is the coupler?
Bob

Yes all you have to do is remove the snout which is the part with the pulley. It's held on by a few bolts and isn't too hard to get off. Depending on what coupler you buy its between $15 and $30 IIRC. ZZPerformance.com has them.

On the 1995, you have to remove the whole SC first, then the snout.
From what I've read.
Look in the "Write Ups" section for a detailed explanation of how to R&R coupler.

What type does a 96 have?

m90 u can just remove the snout. its pretty easy from what ive seen. much easier then the dreadful 95

Okay, on my To Do list was replacing the coupler for the s/c.

An easy job, smelly, but easy.

Here's some pics


First remove alternator (disconnect negative battery terminal first)


then suck out the oil (about 2.2 fills of this syringe thing) Smells like a diaper! A used diaper!


dispose of it. I didn't want to mix it with my used motor oil as I think it will leave a smell forever!


Remove the bolts holding the s/c in place. 10 mm (some also say 3/8's" ) . OH BEWARE THERE'S ONE ON THE VERY BOTTOM. I LOOKED 3 TIMES DIDN'T SEE IT, COULDN'T GET S/C SNOUT OFF...HAMMERING AND WEDGING...LUCKILY BEFORE I F'ED UP I CHECKED WEB AND SURE ENOUGH...I'D MISSED THAT BOLT ON BOTTOM!!


snout off. a little oil, but not too much


old coupler. looks fine, but does have about 1/16' wiggle..enough to make a rattle


new coupler on, very tight fit...hammer gently on to snout. then line up with s/c on engine and bolt back into place


the kit came with a red gooey gasket material. I used it liberally as I had nicked the aluminum finish trying to wedge snout off (didn't know I'd missed a bolt) You see it sqeezing out the edge there?

That's it, took longer than I expected as I wasn't aware of the last bolt..could have been bad if I had kept prying, but I found it, it came off no problem and all is well..

I will keep my eye on the oil level for the next week to ensure I didn't mess anything up. The s/c is aluminum and I scratched the mating surfaces a little, so I dremmeled the nicks out...and the gasket material is gooey enough to fill void....but I'll keep checking.

BUT, I have earlier posts talking about a shuddering noise when I'm at idle in drive at lights & such...well, after this new coupler, it doesn't do that anymore...

I'm not sure the coupler was the problem, it could have been a belt issue or the power steering hoses (I wiggled them some...could that have been it??)

Anyway, she's back on the road!

Thanks Nate,
We finally have photo's of a series 2 SC coupler change.

Thanks!

There's actually another post on this out there on the webtubes

http://www3.sympatico.ca/aepa/blowerinstall.html

Thank goodness for it!

It's an easy fix everyone, if you've got that wobble in the s/c snout and a rattling sound (especially when you shut car off and you hear a rattle for a split second).

I'm glad I did it

Perfect..

are we sure the bolts are 10mm? i seem to recal almost striping the bolts at some point b/c i was using the wrong socket. however i cant remember if the correct one was 10mm or 3/8. anyone want to run out and see which one has less play?

3/8

robotennis61 wrote:

3/8

Same on M62?

I edited it to 3/8's...Never tried standard size... it seems a mix under the hood then...the s/c pulley is 15mm

Maybe because the SC is made by Eaton in the USA they used standard hardware.???/

Those are most definitely metric bolts, they are 10 mm heads and have a metric thread. However, like the Valve Cover bolts, the heads are small for some reason and you need a 6 pt socket or you'll just twist right off. Even a 6 pt socket is hard to do, sometimes it's just easier to use a 3/8 socket. But they really are a 'metric' bolt, based on the metric thread.

Thanks again for the correction and clarification.
I haven't done my coupler yet, although it needs replacing. Will probably do it as soon as I can get some shop time next month.

I have always used a 10mm deep socket as well. They aren't torqued particularly tight, so never had an issue getting them loose.

Edit: if 3/8" fits, I'd use it. It's a slightly smaller size compared to 10 mm.

Nice write-up.


(3/8" = 9.525 mm) I really can't remember what socket I used when I did mine last Spring.

Cheers

Good job, Nate.

I don't think I've ever seen SC oil that color before, has it ever been changed?

that's the usual color of a decomposed whale....gooooo budah!!

Eldo wrote:

Good job, Nate.

I don't think I've ever seen SC oil that color before, has it ever been changed?

Mine was that color also when I changed it at about 80K miles. Assumed it was original fluid based on the previous owner telling me that the trans fluid had never been changed because the book didn't say you had to.