Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)

FWIW here's what the SC gears sound like -

Yeah, that snout bearing is (was) definitely shot!

It's on a truck to INTENSE now . . .

Gonna attempt this soon. I know you need to move the alternator out of the way to get to some of the bolts. Do I need to disconnect the battery?

LARRY70GS wrote:

Gonna attempt this soon.  I know you need to move the alternator out of the way to get to some of the bolts.  Do I need to disconnect the battery?

If you're moving the alternator, I'd disco the battery. Actually, just disco that B+ junction in the RF engine bay. Wrap a rag around it or something so it doesn't arc out on stuff.

Abaddon wrote:

LARRY70GS wrote:

Gonna attempt this soon.  I know you need to move the alternator out of the way to get to some of the bolts.  Do I need to disconnect the battery?

If you're moving the alternator, I'd disco the battery. Actually, just disco that B+ junction in the RF engine bay. Wrap a rag around it or something so it doesn't arc out on stuff.

Thanks Scott.

Just finished up. Took me 2 1/2 hrs. start to finish. Not a bad job, but you need a deep well 10mm socket for sure. One of the bottom bolts has limited access with the alternator mount in the way. I ended up just going under the seat and disconnecting the negative battery lead. Got almost all the oil out, but it's still a stinky job. Ripped the SC gasket in front of course, doesn't look like it seals anything anyway.

SC snout freshly rebuilt by INTENSE. No more noise but it doesn't spin very freely, which is surprising, but since it's INTENSE it's probably right.

When the bearings are new, they won't free spin. Same thing for a hub bearing. Usually, if they free spin, they're bad.

Abaddon wrote:

When the bearings are new, they won't free spin. Same thing for a hub bearing. Usually, if they free spin, they're bad.

How about alternators?

turn the alt pulley with your fingers, and feel for any grinding or clicking

albertj wrote:

turn the alt pulley with your fingers, and feel for any grinding of clicking

I 2nd this.

Alternators do make some bit of noise. You can put a stethoscope on a brand new alternator with the car running, and it will be the loudest damn thing on the engine.

Abaddon wrote:

albertj wrote:

turn the alt pulley with your fingers, and feel for any grinding of clicking

I 2nd this.

Alternators do make some bit of noise. You can put a stethoscope on a brand new alternator with the car running, and it will be the loudest damn thing on the engine.

Right.

Alternators whirr. Largely the commutator brushes on the rotor, and the fan on the front.

It was kind of a mind bonk for me, and I learned it on this web site, that the best thing to do checking pullies was to turn them with your fingers and feel for scraping, grinding, clicking. Idler pullies, the alternator pulley too.

Abaddon wrote:

LARRY70GS wrote:

Gonna attempt this soon.  I know you need to move the alternator out of the way to get to some of the bolts.  Do I need to disconnect the battery?

If you're moving the alternator, I'd disco the battery. Actually, just disco that B+ junction in the RF engine bay. Wrap a rag around it or something so it doesn't arc out on stuff.

You can install the cables at the B+ terminal so that the load cable(s) at the B+ junction is/are on top. Then when you need to disconnect the battery, just Disco *the load side* cables then snug the nut down on the ferrule for the remaining cable from the batt and and snap the B+ cover back in place. Wha-la, *no load* and so no worries about arcing. The hot cable is under the plastic guard. Tuck the dangling load cables somewhere obvious like under the engine mount, unless that is what you are working on, or by the radiator somewhere, or near the frame rail ground post that's near there.

I found it so much easier to go under the seat with a 5/16" gear ratcheting wrench and disconnect the ground cable off the battery.


Now that my coupler isn't making noise, I definitely hear that alternator whirring.  It's the ONLY thing I hear.

albertj wrote:

turn the alt pulley with your fingers, and feel for any grinding or clicking

I can't feel anything wrong with it, and yet it somehow doesn't feel as good as the bad one I replaced, which also feels fine if I just turn it with my fingers. Neither feels anything like the bad snout bearings did, but they turn more freely than the good snout bearings do.

robotennis61 wrote:

Permatex #51031 high temp anaerobic sealant.  Just a dab will do ya!

Does this need an actuator, like Permatex's regular temp anaerobic gasket maker?

Jack the R wrote:

Does this need an actuator, like Permatex's regular temp anaerobic gasket maker?

I use the standard #51813 Anaerobic Gasket Maker....the red shit. I know it says to use a Surface Prep, but as long as the mating surfaces are clean (clean with alcohol or Acrysol), it won't leak. The air gap (if any) between the 2 machined surfaces is almost non-existent. I put the smallest of beads the last 2 times I had my snout off, and ended up having to clean the excess gooey shit from everywhere lol

LOL. Well I've got the regular anaerobic here, but I ordered the high temp a couple days ago so I might as well wait for it now.

Abaddon wrote:

Jack the R wrote:

Does this need an actuator, like Permatex's regular temp anaerobic gasket maker?

I use the standard #51813 Anaerobic Gasket Maker....the red shit. I know it says to use a Surface Prep, but as long as the mating surfaces are clean (clean with alcohol or Acrysol), it won't leak. The air gap (if any) between the 2 machined surfaces is almost non-existent. I put the smallest of beads the last 2 times I had my snout off, and ended up having to clean the excess gooey shit from everywhere lol

I currently have the snout put back together with clear RTV. Everything is put back together except I haven't put the whale oil in. Do you think it's worthwhile to take it back apart again and redo with the high temp anaerobic? The clear RTV is more of a general purpose sealant, not especially oil resistant like the ultra black, but maybe I'm worrying too much.

It's hard to say. The tech in me says wait for the "right" stuff, but the other part of me says eff it, other ppl have been using RTV. If it works, who cares I suppose.

Personally, I'd put the Anaerobic on it. More of a piece of mind kinda thing. Plus, you can wipe every last spec of the Anaerobic off before it dries. Lil more eye friendly.

I bought the ZZP coupler kit. It came with RTV. I used a thin coat on one surface. It sealed up just fine.

https://zzperformance.com/3800/superchargers-eaton-parts/supercharger-swap-kit

I pulled it all apart and resealed with the high temp anaerobic last night.  I hope I got all the RTV off, personally I would not recommend using RTV due to the difficulty of removal.  Permatex makes an RTV dissolver but it has loads of one star reviews on Amazon.  Apparently it is the consistency of Jell-O, imagine trying to get that to hold on your SC.  You'd have to hold it in place with your hands.  I found a bunch of other tips for removing silicone, most of which are too destructive to be using on a machined aluminum surface.  I ended up using mineral oil, which seemed to work, but who knows I could still have an invisible spot of silicone waiting to cause me a leak later.

I also would not recommend using a steel razor blade to remove gasket material on an aluminum surface.  The razor is both too hard, and too big to use while the SC is on the engine.  I cut a strip off an old credit card, that worked great.

I have found the best way to remove RTV is to use a pad like this on a dremel, or even a small wire wheel.

https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/pc361-3-power-cleaner-heavy-duty-pad

LARRY70GS wrote:

I have found the best way to remove RTV is to use a pad like this on a dremel, or even a small wire wheel.

https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/pc361-3-power-cleaner-heavy-duty-pad

Hmm, interesting - too big to use with the SC on the engine I think, but I'm sure there are applications for it.