Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)

Rickw wrote:

Eldo wrote:

Good job, Nate.

I don't think I've ever seen SC oil that color before, has it ever been changed?

Mine was that color also when I changed it at about 80K miles. Assumed it was original fluid based on the previous owner telling me that the trans fluid had never been changed because the book didn't say you had to.

Yeah, how stupid is that... Same with the SC oil! I wonder how long the couplers, seals and bearings would last if the morons had written change it every 30,000 instead of only check it.

As I've said before, mine was pretty stinky when I got it at 69,000 miles, but it didn't look as bad as Nate's. I changed it again around 78,000 miles, and it's been pretty non-odorous on the tiny amount that weeps past the seal and deposits on the inside of the pulley... And there's still zero slop in the coupler, knock wood.

Don't think ever changed at all!

It appears to only lube those two gears there...as it doesn't mix in the rest..

yes it was brown, stinky and TASTED AWFUL! (I kid!!!)

It doesn't make that noise when I turn it off anymore...

but I'm still getting a rumble from the power steering I think....last thing to fix!

It appears I have to take it back off. there seems to be an oil residue on the UIM.

The coupler body actually sits on some of the UIM gasket. When I took it off, some came off. So when I ut it back on, it wasn't aligned right and it seems some gasket may be overlapping other gasket...this might be making just enough of a gap somewhere for leakage.

I'm not 100% sure it's that though. It could just be seepage from putting it back together and it just hasn't all "seeped" out of the crevices & stuff I didn't clean off.

It's easy to remove and redo once you know the steps...so I'll do it this weekend.

I have read where there is a section of gasket that needs to be cut away.
That might be what your referring to.

If you are talking about oil residue on the LIM, near the bolts, that can happen if you put the bolts in dry on some motors. I can't recall if we are supposed to put sealant on the LIM bolts in ours. I have seen oil puddles on a LOT of 3800 LIMs around the bolts. It could be from bad valve cover seals though.

If you are talking about the LIM-S/C mating surface, it should be dry. There is no source for oil up there, unless your snout is leaking some S/C oil.

Derek,
I think he is referring to the SC snout where it meets the SC. I thought i have read a few times where the snout will contact the SC gasket on the LIM and not allow a good seal if that portion of the gasket isn't cut away with a razor blade.
I may be misinterpreting what I've read. IDK.

Before you take it apart again, blast the area clean with brake cleaner and then watch it...

What made you change it right now ? You didn't make it sound that bad.Mine makes a growling noise when I first start the car up cold.Does that sound like a bad coupler??

crlombardi69 wrote:

What made you change it right now ? You didn't make it sound that bad.Mine makes a growling noise when I first start the car up cold.Does that sound like a bad coupler??

Mine started doing the same thing this winter.
Growls when cold, then noise goes away after it warms up for a little while.
I relieved the tension on the belt and found i have about 1/8" play in the coupler.
I could let it go for quite a while longer but I don't like the noise. So I think I will order the coupler and change it out next month sometime.

The oil residue is the s/c oil...either some is slowly leaking or there was some I didn't wipe off and it's still just expanding on the hot surface giving the appearance of a leak. It's just a film...very light.

but that gasket is still there overlapping...and I don't like that. I'll pull it again and cut that portion off for good measure. Reseal, put the oil back in and see again...

The car was making a noise when I turned it off, like a loose rattling sound right after the motor stopped, just a split second. put the new coupler on, it's gone.. I do think the car is quieter with the new one as the slack is gone. The new coupler is really tight on there..no wobble.

I really decided to change it when I had kept reading about the looseness and when you detect it,it's time to change it. Glad I did.

There's also some older post here talking about your tensioners and how you can tell if they're worn or not..there's a notch on the side where it should align with the section on the side of the round part of the pulley...I'll have to take a pic. But if you have it too loose it will be one way, too tight the other...should fall in middle...a loose belt can be a problem too as it may slip (not sqeek, but slip still)....

Ok. It sounds like its time to change my coupler too but I was trying to wait until spring when I'm tearing the motor apart.I'm going to install valve springs and rockers along with a coupler,all new gaskets and exhaust system(headers-back).Maybe I will change s/c oil for nom and put it off til spring and the major upper end overhaul.?

Oil change won't affect it...That oil really just lubes those two gears. The coupler is affected by it's tightness.

I'd still wait for overhall since you won't damage car with worn coupler. I think that's the whole point of the coupler...It breaks before metal grinds together and damages engine...so the worst that could happen is coupler breaks and s/c quits turning. I've driven for weeks without s/c belt on, car ran just fine...just slower

the only reason to wait would be b/c the alt would be out of the way when replacing the LIM gaskets. when you tear down the top end, the blower doesnt need to come apart and the oil will not leak out of it. you can pull everything from the pulley to the TB off with only a few bolts and the fuel rail off.

Well, it's been a couple of weeks since install. I still see a thin film on the UIM of oil, but I checked the level in the s/c snout and it's still up to the threads. So no change yet.

I bought new gasket sealer just in case, but not going to pull snout back off unless I see evidence of oil going down.

I suspect it's just the remaining residue from when I pulled it. Some may have gotten under snout against UIM gasket and is just seeping out or 'wicking' and will eventually subside...

But sound difference is noticeable. Car turns off without any "rattle"

Still happy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=pSsSctYvOoI This is the link I found for changing super charger coupler. Hope it helps: