Alarm Troubles

DEMonte1997 wrote:

One other silly question:

It seems to do this no matter if I arm the car with the fob or the door lock button. This doesn't help narrow it down further, right?

You gotta tell me the state of the interior (dome) lights in order to answer this one. Should be:

Open door - lights on

Close door, lights stay on, insert key in ignition and turn key to start car, lights go out.

Car running, turn key off and remove from ign lights on.

Is this the behavior you observe?

Yes this is exactly what I observe, EXCEPT, the last part. Sometimes, when I remove the keys from the ignition, the dome lights never come on. It's very rare but it happens. The lights always come on when the doors are opened.

Thanks again Albert. I appreciate it.

DEMonte1997 wrote:

Yes this is exactly what I observe, EXCEPT, the last part. Sometimes, when I remove the keys from the ignition, the dome lights never come on. It's very rare but it happens. The lights always come on when the doors are opened.

Thanks again Albert. I appreciate it.

My "vote" is ig switch. The line sensing key out isn't working right. So the alarm gets fooled and your dome lights don't work right. It is probably making/breaking without being manipulated, which makes the alarm think someone is messing with the lock, so alarm sounds off.

Don't be surprised if the door switch is flaky too, they *all* go eventually from age I understand. I've replaced both of mine. Too bad you can't open them, I"d bet they'd be fixable - clean them and put dots of solder on the contact pads.

Albertj

DEMonte1997 wrote:

One other silly question:

It seems to do this no matter if I arm the car with the fob or the door lock button. This doesn't help narrow it down further, right?

doesn't help. Either will arm the alarm system.

Ignition switch is cheap and easy enough. Will start from there.

Another thought... Security light started coming on shortly after taking out my old seat and putting in a replacement while the old one was fixed. The replacement doesn't have the plug ins for anything underneath. There couldn't be any issue with that triggering security, could there? I know the ABS module is under the DS seat in the Regal. Odd thought... but figured it could be relevant.

DEMonte1997 wrote:

Ignition switch is cheap and easy enough. Will start from there.

Another thought... Security light started coming on shortly after taking out my old seat and putting in a replacement while the old one was fixed. The replacement doesn't have the plug ins for anything underneath. There couldn't be any issue with that triggering security, could there? I know the ABS module is under the DS seat in the Regal. Odd thought... but figured it could be relevant.

I don't understand.

Albertj

PS: Have a service manual set?

albertj wrote:

DEMonte1997 wrote:

Yes this is exactly what I observe, EXCEPT, the last part. Sometimes, when I remove the keys from the ignition, the dome lights never come on. It's very rare but it happens. The lights always come on when the doors are opened.

Thanks again Albert. I appreciate it.

My "vote" is ig switch. The line sensing key out isn't working right. So the alarm gets fooled and your dome lights don't work right. It is probably making/breaking without being manipulated, which makes the alarm think someone is messing with the lock, so alarm sounds off.

Don't be surprised if the door switch is flaky too, they *all* go eventually from age I understand. I've replaced both of mine. Too bad you can't open them, I"d bet they'd be fixable - clean them and put dots of solder on the contact pads.

Albertj

I was thinking about this a bit more - I don't remember if the "key in" sense line is no the ignition switch or the ignition lock - you might want to check with a GM parts person or find the thread on this site where they tore down a steering column and check. You want to fix the part that has that sense line.

albertj wrote:

DEMonte1997 wrote:

Ignition switch is cheap and easy enough. Will start from there.

Another thought... Security light started coming on shortly after taking out my old seat and putting in a replacement while the old one was fixed. The replacement doesn't have the plug ins for anything underneath. There couldn't be any issue with that triggering security, could there? I know the ABS module is under the DS seat in the Regal. Odd thought... but figured it could be relevant.

I don't understand.

Albertj

PS: Have a service manual set?

I apologize. Was thinking in jumps there. The security light came on a few times shortly after I yanked the driver's side seat. That seat had a collapsed bar in the back so I took it out and have a guy welding the support bar for me. In the meantime, I put a different seat in there so I can retain use of the car. The replacement seat was power but none of the plugs matched (even though it was a seat out of another 97). Thus I left the wires unplugged. Originally, I figured that wouldn't affect anything and that the wires were just for the seat. Now I'm not as sure. So I guess there are two issues here:

-Does the security light have anything to do with the factory alarm system insofar as triggering it to go off when the car isn't in use?

-Is it possible that any of the wiring under the seat is related to the alarm system? (seems like a stretch, I know. but as I said, the Regal has some ABS electronics under the driver seat.)

And I don't have any service manuals. However, I am looking at purchasing a set. Guessing that the 1997 manual is the only way to go.. but I see some 96 and 99 manuals for cheaper.

DEMonte1997 wrote:

albertj wrote:

DEMonte1997 wrote:

Ignition switch is cheap and easy enough. Will start from there.

Another thought... Security light started coming on shortly after taking out my old seat and putting in a replacement while the old one was fixed. The replacement doesn't have the plug ins for anything underneath. There couldn't be any issue with that triggering security, could there? I know the ABS module is under the DS seat in the Regal. Odd thought... but figured it could be relevant.

I don't understand.

Albertj

PS: Have a service manual set?

I apologize. Was thinking in jumps there. The security light came on a few times shortly after I yanked the driver's side seat. That seat had a collapsed bar in the back so I took it out and have a guy welding the support bar for me. In the meantime, I put a different seat in there so I can retain use of the car. The replacement seat was power but none of the plugs matched (even though it was a seat out of another 97). Thus I left the wires unplugged. Originally, I figured that wouldn't affect anything and that the wires were just for the seat. Now I'm not as sure. So I guess there are two issues here:

-Does the security light have anything to do with the factory alarm system insofar as triggering it to go off when the car isn't in use?

-Is it possible that any of the wiring under the seat is related to the alarm system? (seems like a stretch, I know. but as I said, the Regal has some ABS electronics under the driver seat.)

And I don't have any service manuals. However, I am looking at purchasing a set. Guessing that the 1997 manual is the only way to go.. but I see some 96 and 99 manuals for cheaper.

I do not know if driver seat wiring is linked to the factory alarm on a '97.

If your alarm is *not* factory your best bet may be to remove it.

Albertj

It is factory. I read from another source (car alarm installer) that if I ground the green wire that runs from the car into the door that it will kill the alarm too. Not sure if that makes sense to anyone. At this point, I don't much care if I have the alarm as I don't see anyone wanting to steal my 15 year old Buick anytime soon.

edit: This is the link i mention above

If there is a light green wire I can just ground, I'd be happy to do that.

DEMonte1997 wrote:

It is factory. I read from another source (car alarm installer) that if I ground the green wire that runs from the car into the door that it will kill the alarm too. Not sure if that makes sense to anyone. At this point, I don't much care if I have the alarm as I don't see anyone wanting to steal my 15 year old Buick anytime soon.

edit: This is the link i mention above

If there is a light green wire I can just ground, I'd be happy to do that.

Sorry, Rick -- I have not had to work on my alarm and don't know what to do with this one. Maybe someone else will chime in.

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Car-Alarms-1513/1998-Buick-Riviera-factory.htm

This is what I'm going to do today. Seems simple enough. Hopefully no hiccups on this one.

One problem: There's at least 8 light green wires under there on a few different harnesses. Shit...

I've got alarm trouble now and its getting worse! It sounds off about 1 hour after parking and some times more than once. is the door latch that you mention the "door lock actuator" that's all
I can find on the parts sites... the only other parts I found relating to door latch are the rods
and rod connectors. the "door lock actuator" is located inside the door it's self, is that what I
need or is there a different pin type on the body?

I'd love to find a better solution to this. Been locking the doors on my car "by hand" for the time being. There are a ton of alarm installer posts on google that say if you ground the green wire under the back seat, it will kill the factory alarm. I think that's a novel idea. Pulled the back seat and there are somewhere in the neighborhood of 15 green wires in various harnesses back there. If someone here has a better idea of wtf to do, that would be fantastic.

Anyone who steals my 16 year old 170K mile barge can just have the damn thing. It's better than dealing with waking up at 3AM to the alarm blaring because the car is having a mental fit. :X

Rick, I had an issue a few years ago on my 95 with the alarm going off while I was out of town. Believe it or not, the issue came down to the hazard light switch on the column. I clicked it on and off a few times and it has never done it again.

I've got alarm trouble now and its getting worse! It sounds off about 1 hour after parking and some times more than once. is the door latch that you mention the "door lock actuator" that's all
I can find on the parts sites... the only other parts I found relating to door latch are the rods
and rod connectors. the "door lock actuator" is located inside the door it's self, is that what I
need or is there a different pin type on the body?

I have just run into this problem, of course at 4am. I have had security light flashes recently, i did high pressure wash the car hours before this incident. When i went to manually lock the car to stop it from happening the 4th time, the lock button did nothing. the unlock worked fine. used the manual paddles. the info above was helpful, but i hope it needs to dry out the door latch and ill be back to not pissing off the neighbors. '97 NA Riviera

When I was 16, my car got buggle raped twice, and each time I wish I would have left the darn thing unlocked so the buttholes could just get in without fucking my door up.

Now, I live by the idea that I keep nothing in my car and keep it unlocked, so no damage can be done.

This is no longer the case. I am about to go full stereo/dash/tuning suite and its time to arm my bitch to the teeth. Like flamethrowers on the door handles, ya know.

Thing is, my OEM alarm is wack. If I arm it, it will freak out and go nuts for no obvious reason. This has never been an issue because i've never used it. But that has changed and now it's a problem.

Also, 2 days ago, for the first time ever, it freaked out without even being armed!

I have to get this sorted out asap so I can move forward with interior mods.

Just read through this thread and I have some ideas.
I will post back with results.  

Pasting from http://www.vadengmpp.com/owners-manual/buick/1999-Buick-Riviera.pdf
for anyone who needs it:

Universal Theft-Deterrent (Option)
If your vehicle has this option, it has a theft-deterrent
alarm system. With this system, if your ignition is off,
the SECURITY light will flash as you open the door.
This light reminds you to
activate the theft-deterrent
system. Here’s how to do it:
1. Open the door.
2. Lock the door with the power door lock switch or
remote keyless entry system. The SECURITY light
should come on and stay on.
3. Close both doors. The SECURITY light should go
off after about 30 seconds. The security system is not
armed until the SECURITY light is off. If the
SECURITY light stays on or flashes when the
ignition is turned on, there is a problem with the
system and the vehicle should be serviced.
If the SECURITY light comes on for one minute and
then shuts off while the ignition is on, the security
system has detected a problem. See your drug dealer
for service.

If a door or the trunk is opened without the key or
remote keyless entry system, the alarm will go off. It
will also go off if the trunk lock or door locks are
damaged. Your vehicle’s lamps will flash and the horn
will sound for one minute, then will go off to save
battery power.
Remember, the theft-deterrent system won’t be activated
if you lock the doors with a key or use the manual door
lock. It only activates if you use a power door lock
switch or remote keyless entry system. You should also
remember that you can start your vehicle with the
correct ignition key if the alarm has been set off, but this
does not shut off the alarm.
Here’s how to avoid setting off the alarm by accident:

If you don’t want to activate the theft-deterrent
system, lock the door either using a key or the
manual door lock switch.

Always unlock a door with a key, or use the remote
keyless entry system. Unlocking a door any other
way will set off the alarm.
If you set off the alarm by accident, unlock either door
with your key.
You can also turn off the alarm by pressing UNLOCK
on the remote keyless entry transmitter. The alarm won’t
stop if you try to unlock a door any other way.
Testing the Alarm
The alarm can be tested by following these steps:
1. From inside the vehicle, roll down the driver’s
window and open the driver’s door.
2. Activate the system by locking the doors with the
power door lock switch while the door is open, or
with the remote keyless entry transmitter.
3. Get out of the car, close the door and wait for the
SECURITY light to go out.
4. Then reach in through the window, unlock the door
with the manual door lock and open the door. This
should set off the alarm.
If the alarm does not sound when it should, but the
vehicle’s lamps flash, check to see if the horn works.
The horn fuse may be blown. To replace the fuse, see
“Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index.
If the alarm does not sound, or the vehicle’s lamps do
not flash, the vehicle should be serviced by an
authorized service center.

see your drug dealer lol

charlieRobinson wrote:

See your drug dealer
for service.

lol

My car alarm started going off in the middle of the night last week. I avoid the issue by now locking the car manually. I'm not sure when I'll get around to actually trying to fix it. I am curious about why it only happened in the middle of the night, though, and never during the day when the car alarm was also on. Perhaps length of time since the alarm was set is a factor? Perhaps a weakening battery is setting it off. Or perhaps temperature is a factor.

Steve98 wrote:

My car alarm started going off in the middle of the night last week. I avoid the issue by now locking the car manually. I'm not sure when I'll get around to actually trying to fix it. I am curious about why it only happened in the middle of the night, though, and never during the day when the car alarm was also on. Perhaps length of time since the alarm was set is a factor? Perhaps a weakening battery is setting it off. Or perhaps temperature is a factor.

I don't think night time or temperature really have anything to do with it, unless you have a failing door lock actuator. It's mainly a content theft "alarm". If the alarm is set, really the only way to make it go off is to reach inside an open window and open the door, or open the lock manually with your door key.

Weak battery may do it. If the voltage drops, then spikes it may set it off.

I think the battery is a good place for me to start. Mine is quite old. I'll provide an update later on.