Riviera floating to left on braking?

Exactly. You have no idea how long the string of expletives was when I heard this. I just got a k frame for 500 delivered to the body shop from eiss brothers. I've got a 9000 dollar car and not much to show for it.

Abaddon wrote:

Ouch dude, Ouch

Here are photos of it. I blame the DOT and their ridiculous use of chloride to salt the roads. It went from not being an issue last summer to completely failing, just over the winter. Funny thing is the rest of the frame sections are in excellent condition.

GMFreak8 wrote:

Here are photos of it. I blame the DOT and their ridiculous use of chloride to salt the roads.

I hear ya. I don't know how the roads are there, but here in SE Mich they suck ass. In the winter months we blast away our suspension, and in the summer we dodge orange barrels........I went around the entire frame structure 2 years ago and painted it with a rust inhibitor. It's working so far......Up in Northern Mich they don't have this problem as they use sand instead of salt....

What did you use as a rust inhibit? I'm thinking of doing that after this repair. O need to do something. Vermont only sands and plows, no salt is used and there is a notable reduction in rust on cars from vermont.

Abaddon wrote:

gMFreak8 wrote:

Here are photos of it. I blame the DOT and their ridiculous use of chloride to salt the roads.

I hear ya. I don't know how the roads are there, but here in SE Mich they suck ass. In the winter months we blast away our suspension, and in the summer we dodge orange barrels........I went around the entire frame structure 2 years ago and painted it with a rust inhibitor. It's working so far......Up in Northern Mich they don't have this problem as they use sand instead of salt....

I used stuff called POR-15. Brush a lil on all the welds and stress points. It's quite expensive, but IMO it's worth it.

check it out www.por15.com

You should be able to get a decent frame from Morads - he parts out a few Rivs from time to time.

I already have one coming from a local salvage yard. I need it ASAP. Does it look like the k frame is the only thing affected from the pictures?

deekster_caddy wrote:

You should be able to get a decent frame from Morads - he parts out a few Rivs from time to time.

Abaddon wrote:

GMFreak8 wrote:

Here are photos of it. I blame the DOT and their ridiculous use of chloride to salt the roads.

I hear ya. I don't know how the roads are there, but here in SE Mich they suck ass. In the winter months we blast away our suspension, and in the summer we dodge orange barrels........I went around the entire frame structure 2 years ago and painted it with a rust inhibitor. It's working so far......Up in Northern Mich they don't have this problem as they use sand instead of salt....

PLEASE tell us which/what rust inhibitor you used POR-15 is The Stuff.

Albertj

albertj wrote:

PLEASE tell us which/what rust inhibitor you used

Albertj

I did, on page 2

I think Albert is interested in knowing what Kyle used.

I didn't use anything. Obviously I should have.

My bad, I see what Scott was referring to now.

It's actually less expensive than some other products out there.
I plan on buying some and doing both my undercarriage and wheel wells with it.
And after I replace all the aluminum Fuel Lines, they will get a coat as well.
I am also getting the Motorcycle Gas Tank kit for coating the inside of my tanks.
I've heard too many good things about this product.
It just depends on having the money to do it correctly.

Sorry to hear about your sub frame.
Not a lot of miles for that kind of corrosion.
Makes me want to bead blast the whole undercarriage before coating it.

albertj wrote:

Abaddon wrote:

GMFreak8 wrote:

Here are photos of it. I blame the DOT and their ridiculous use of chloride to salt the roads.

I hear ya. I don't know how the roads are there, but here in SE Mich they suck ass. In the winter months we blast away our suspension, and in the summer we dodge orange barrels........I went around the entire frame structure 2 years ago and painted it with a rust inhibitor. It's working so far......Up in Northern Mich they don't have this problem as they use sand instead of salt....

PLEASE tell us which/what rust inhibitor you used POR-15 is The Stuff.

Albertj

POR-15 is a fantastic rust-converter, superior to anything you can buy in a store. It's amazing to see the rusty surface just suck it in, and then turn into an onyx-like suface... Just a few caveats:

-It is a very unique product, so DO read the directions.

-It is primarily meant for metal that is already rusted, so it will not grip well to clean metal... For use solely as a preventer, you must use their metal-prep to give the good metal some 'tooth'.

-You will need to buy their solvent to get it off of anything else you get it on - especially yourself
Back when I used it on the convertible, I actually worked in a paint store... Nothing on the entire solvent shelf, all the way up to MEK, would budge that stuff!

Abaddon wrote:

I hear ya. I don't know how the roads are there, but here in SE Mich they suck ass. In the winter months we blast away our suspension, and in the summer we dodge orange barrels....

Sounds like Southern Ontario!

Albert, something messed up... You quoted me twice, but your own input didn't print...

Mark

hes infatuated

Is this Frame issue common on the Riv's.??
I've not heard anyone on here show any pic's that look like what Kyle has shown.

But coincidentally, a few weeks ago I was warned by someone in the Auto business about "Frames Rotting" on 8th Gen Riviera's. He mentioned these sub-frame sections rotting from the inside out and by the time you see it it is already real bad. I dismissed his comments.
I told the guy he must be mistaken because I don't think I have any rot, and have the luxury of using a lift frequently, and he swore that these were prone to some serious issues.
I also mentioned the fact that I spend some time on a Riviera forum and have not heard anyone mention sub-frame rot at all.
All I have seen is surface rust from New England winter's and was planning on doing the undercarriage with POR-15 sometime this summer. He again warned that i make sure I somehow get this product inside any and all boxed channels, all hidden area's.
Now I see these pic's from Kyle and it is just a bit disconcerting. Around here they have started to use the gel as a replacement for salt on certain State Roads. The gel is supposed to be something like 10 times more corrosive than salt yet much more effective on melting the ice on the roads.

BTW, Kyle can you possibly re-size those photo's so it is easier to see just where your rot has taken place. I don't know what section the "K" frame is. Picture #1 is a bit unclear to me. I'm not sure of what frame section needs to be replaced on your car. I've tried magnifying the image but it gets too big and blurry and still can't make out what part of the car it is.
Thanks a lot for posting your problem, as I am going to do a thorough inspection and attempt to stop any rust/corrosion/rot on my car and am very sorry you have had to experience this on top of all the other issues you have had with such a low mileage car.
Hang in there you'll get through it all and be able to enjoy the car soon enough.

robotennis61 wrote:

he's infatuated

Yes, with incredibly astute advice...

Eldo wrote:

Albert, something messed up... You quoted me twice, but your own input didn't print...

Mark

Probably a glitch on my PC; I probably swiped the track pad while typing and removed my own input or some such. Time to move on.

Albertj

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you all. I've been extremely busy lately and haven't had time to do anything. I got the car fixed finally. Cost me $492 for the part, and $500 in labor, but it's done and better than ever. The frame was totally screwed. You'll be able to see in the picture I attached. Basically it broke at the lower control arm, and directly in front of where it mounts to the body. You can't even pick the frame up without it cracking further.

To top it off I made things worse when trying to load the car on the flat bed. When I was driving it home, I literally had to keep my wheel turned a full turn to the left just to go straight, and the wheels were squealing. I called the flat bed, and figured I could drive it the three feet onto the flat bed. Wrong. I started the car and moved it about a foot, and turned the wheel ever so slightly. Next thing I know it starts shaking horribly. I shut it off immediately and got out of the car. The passenger side wheel was completely off. Along with it, came the CV assembly. There was grease pouring out where it separated. Let's just say everyone in the town heard a 10 minute swear laced tantrum.

Anyway, I got it to the shop eventually, and a frame and cv assembly later it's good as new. And yes, apparently these vehicles in the northern areas are known for rotting k frames. The way the frame is made allows for all the sand and salt to just sit inside. It doesn't matter how much you clean it, you can't get it all out.

Anyway, here's a picture of the old frame. The new one is literally brand new, so I should be good for awhile. I'm just paranoid now about what's going to happen next.

What next? Probly nothing, the cradle is the major cavity-containing area. Just get some POR-15 and a couple scrap paintbrushes, and a warm Saturday afternoon to scrape and paint the rusty spots on the underbody. And watch those lateral arms on the back.

Albertj

Off topic, I know, but at least Kyle gave us a nice picture of the aluminum/horizontal/98-99 control arms. The first time I saw that vertical bushing in my aluminum '97 arm, I just knew it was gonna' be a headache when it came time to replace it - and then the company that built the whole replace-as-unit arms goes out of business!
I'd sure like to know why the hell they didn't build them the 'normal' way in the first place...