Write-Up: Window Motor Replacement

A circuit is always a circuit, AC or DC. But since a car is made of metal, non-electronic (non-fussy) items can use the body as the negative return... The motor isn't grounded because the + & - have to be reversed by the switch in order to reverse the motor. Thus, you can't short out the bare wire when you're fishing it into the door unless the motor itself has an internal short. If that were the case, I think you would have seen some smoke by now.

Just to follow proper procedures, use the 3M to connect to the motor from battery positive, and use the bare wire for negative - then nothing will happen if you touch something else in the door.

PS - Rick is right, the only way you're gonna' get bitten by 12V is if you're standing barefoot in salt water.

Eldo wrote:

PS - Rick is right, the only way you're gonna' get bitten by 12V is if you're standing barefoot in salt water.

And even then you might only feel a tingle at most.
You can grab both the positive and negative battery cables and feel NOTHING.
Your safe Jack.

Lotsa sparky sparky, no movement from the motor.

More money for Monster Parts Online . . .

Try Morads, I know they have several. Unless you don't want used.
See what they cost new at monster and then offer Morads like 20-25% of new, depending on mileage.
I think monster will only offer it as a regulator assembly. Which consists of the track and motor assy. More expensive that way.
Come to think of it that's the way Morads advertises them also, IIRC.
OEM P/N is 22154977 for the left door
22154978 for the right door

Well, I was wrong Monster parts does offer just the motor for about 125.00.
Need to use the above p/n to find the left one though. Their listing only shows the right one for some reason.

Have you tried disassembling the motor to see if it's just corrosion on internal connections or are the brushes worn out, etc
You can pull the motor from the door, don't forget to tape the window glass up to hold it in position in case it wants to fall after removing the motor, and disassemble and test on the bench. Much easier than messing with it in the door.

Morads has a couple for 79.00 shipped.
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Morad-Parts-Company_Buick-Riviera-1995-1999_W0QQ_fsubZ13482291QQ_sidZ38997246?_nkw=window+regulator&submit=Search

I always email them and offer less and they usually go for it.

I found it on Monster under Electrical , Body electrical ,Front door ,Window motor - Window motor, aurora, riveria, left $101.20

Wouldn't that be better than used? The used part could have more miles on it than the one I've got.

I'll take it apart and look at it. While it's a sizeable motor it looks like a basic cheap as crap brushed motor. Can you get the brushes for these?

How do you tape the window up? There's no frame to tape it too

Yes, I would get new also for that price.
I forgot about the design of our window / body lacking a window frame.
Is your window currently in the UP position, if so when you remove the motor be careful to hold the glass and try to let it go down and rest on the bottom of the track's travel.
Just wanted to give you a heads up to be careful with it that's all. It might not try to fall down on you, I don't know for sure. You'll just have to see how it reacts.
You might be able to find the parts to rebuild it, but it's not worth it if a new replacement is only $100.00

Wouldn't hurt to price it from the dealer...

Yeah, it's up.

Shouldn't it lock into position? It doesn't sound like good design to have the motor supporting the weight of the glass.

I may lay off of this until I know I can have the car down for a while again, just in case.

Jack the R wrote:

Yeah, it's up.

Shouldn't it lock into position? It doesn't sound like good design to have the motor supporting the weight of the glass.

I may lay off of this until I know I can have the car down for a while again, just in case.

I don't know what it is going to do once you remove the motor. Maybe nothing. But it would be a good idea to have the replacement motor in hand and just do a swap.

Once again, Rick is absolutely right... There is a counterbalance spring, as I mentioned originally, but the motor assembly is self-locking. It is a worm-gear system - easy for the actual motor inside the assembly to turn, with high torque multiplication, but it cannot be turned in reverse (from the output shaft.)

Use something to prevent the glass from dropping when you remove the motor. After that, you can lower the glass by hand until it equalizes with the spring, and then attach the new motor.

I have an inexpensive tool made to hold the window when replacing regulator assemblies. It consists of two suction cups attached to each other by a cord.
On a window with a door frame you put one suction cup on the outside of the window and the other on the inside with the cord going over the top of the frame and it holds the window in the up position. I actually got two of them for extra insurance.
On a car without a door frame, like the Riv, you can put the suction cups on the window glass (outside) and the others on the roof of the car to hold it up. But you have to be able to remove the motor with the door closed and work from the inside.
This is where it helps to have second person holding the glass for you while you do the swap with door open.

BTW JR, what happened to the pictures that were in your sig?

Alrightey, will start looking for suction cups. I'll put 'em on a rope and throw it over a rafter so I can work with the door open.

About the sig pics, I decided to take them down while AA battles GM's corporate lawyers. Better safe than sorry as they say

Hmm, came back from TN and got in my car and tried to roll the window down, nothing. Whatever I drove some a tried it an hour later and it rolled down and worked for about a week. Today it's not working again. I can hear clicking in the door. Is this likely the switch, motor, or something else? Passanger window did this as well recently.

Sounds like what happened when my motor was going out. Acted like that for a couple years.

So you could hear it clicking inside the door?

Has anyone got an old window motor, or know the specs of it? I'd like to search around and see if I can come up with another motor that would work. Maybe something for an R/C rock crawler, who knows? If I can get some info for this one I'll post on an R/C forum and see.

JR, what happened to your old one. Didn't you replace one motor already ????

I haven't replaced it yet.

I thought you found a New replacement for around $100.00.
What's wrong with that price for new.????

Or disassemble and try replacing the brushes only.!!!!!

Here is one to try:
http://store.alternatorparts.com/partno961949.aspx

Look beyond the image of what show's up for the one that best matches the Riv.
If you've had yours out or have had a good look at it you should be able to tell.
Or call him, he's been very helpful with me on Alternator parts.

Much less expensive.

Suction cups = housewares section, either with the picture hanging stuff or the bathroom stuff.

Used vs new window motor = the Riv window motor is in the same case as many others but runs faster. Seriously. This is more 'trivia' than trouble and likely is not worth worrying about. Take this as an FYI. If you get a motor from Monster or GMPD you'll get the faster motor. If you buy an aftermarket replacement you'll get the slower standard motor. If you get a rebuilt motor (Cardone) you *might or might not* get the faster motor. What about me? When my passenger side motor failed the dealer replaced it with an aftermarket motor from CarQuest because there was no OE motor in range. Yes it winds a little slower but you'd have to know to notice, it does not really make a difference.

Albertj

albertj wrote:

What about me? When my passenger side motor failed the dealer replaced it with an aftermarket motor from CarQuest because there was no OE motor in range. Yes it winds a little slower but you'd have to know to notice, it does not really make a difference.

Albertj

Albert, do you remember how much $$$ for the CarQuest replacement motor????

Rickw wrote:

I thought you found a New replacement for around $100.00.
What's wrong with that price for new.????

I don't mind saving a buck but I'm curious to know if I can hack together a solution with a $20 motor and it may help out the younger forum members.