car trouble - Stalling (coil pack wiring)

I have a 99 supercharged and have been having trouble with it staying running. I will be driving and it will just die. It can take several minutes to start back up.The service light is not coming on, but the security light comes on after it starts. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Fuel pressure is fine, and is there a rebuild kit for the supercharger?

I really need help, have baby on the way and need car to be sound when he gets here.

It is not your supercharger, have you run codes yet?

99RivieraLB wrote:

I have a 99 supercharged and have been having trouble with it staying running. I will be driving and it will just die. It can take several minutes to start back up.The service light is not coming on, but the security light comes on after it starts. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

do you have any aftermarket car alarm or immobilizer?

Albertj

There's less than 1h between your 3 (total) posts. At least give people the chance to read your messages.

Why are you asking about a rebuild kit for the supercharger ? Is this an unrelated issue ? Does it sound like you have rocks tumbling around in there ? This is a common, easily fixable issue.

yes it sounds like something is tumbling around in it.no aftermarket parts or immobilizers, all stock.going friday to put in on a machine

you need a code reader to find current and stored codes.

you may have a failed crank sensor, which won't set a code.

you may have a failing ignition switch, which won't set a code either.

Albertj

you are dealing with unrelated multiple failures. Your supercharger coupler has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Good news : it's cheap and easy to fix if you have minor mechanical skill. There is a write-up, complete with photos, on how to change it.

were would i find the write up

would a bad coupler make the car die when driving

No , for the time being ignore the supercharger, your car will run without it if it were to completely fail.

99RivieraLB wrote:

... but the security light comes on after it starts. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Doesn't this point to the key or ignition contacts?

You'll also want use the Search for any other possible info, like:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/interior-f20/security-system-lamp-light-issues-t6057.htm

i can pull the key out of the ignition when its running,but i been able to do that since i bought it and it just started doing this a month ago and is getting worse.

I am sure it is NOT a security fault, GM (and all other autos) factory security systems will prevent STARTING , not cause STALLING, if cars were stalling with security faults there would be massive lawsuits for highway crashes and such.

The ignition lock cyl is worn on your car, again ignore that it aint your current problem.

It could be the electrical portion of the ign switch but its not on top of the suspect list yet, go scan your computer for codes.

It could be a bad crankshaft position sensor as albertj points out

I had a random stalling issue 2 years ago. Sometimes it would start right up again, other times it took 10 minutes, ended up being the ignition switch.....although I had no security light. Pull the codes, if any....

Let's "take this from the top" and summarize the recommendations so far:

1) either buy a scanner and pull the codes, or take your car to a dealer (and pay the diagnostic charge usually an hour's labor) to scan the car's computer for "stored codes" and determine if the problem is related to any of those codes. The things that set the codes have to then be repaired. Point is, we know you have a starting and running problem, you told us already and gave useful details. We know your supercharger is making noise. No, the supercharger will not cause the starting problem.

2) If there are no stored codes that pertain to this prolbem, then the problem would likely be one of 3 areas:

a - bad ignition switch. The part where the key goes and the electrical part are separate. You need the key part (called the lock) repaired at some point. I suspect both the electrical and key part of your mechanism are bad. Replace them or have them replaced. At a GM dealer it will be pricey because the labor, although not difficult, ties up a technician for a while and as well the parts new from GM are mad expensive. In every GM car I've owned I've had to replace the electrical part of the ignition switch somewhere between 75 and 150 thousand miles. Could be as much as $500 including parts, DIY for much, much less especially if you can get used parts - contact Ed Morad, http://moradpartscompany.com, he specializes in used parts for these and similar cars and a number of list members shop with him.

b - if your car has more than 70 thousand miles it may also be the case that your crank position sensor is going bad. They fail "bad warm" - you can start the car but after the engine compartment gets good and warm the car can stall. Apparently what happens is a connection molded insode the sensor lets go when it's heat soaked, and reconnects itself when the sensor cools. The sensor is about $50, labor to get it in about $100 but you can do it yourself with a $35 tool from Lisle, just google "Lisle gm 3800 harmonic balancer tool" and you probably will find it.

c - there may be a wiring problem, check the large bundle of wires at the big, big connector on the firewall. Several have found the black wire in top left corner of the bundle to be broken. Also check the ground under the powertrain control module (it is under the coil packs) and the wiring at the module for damage. The repair is just to pick the contact out of the connector and splice the wire, reinsert the connector or install/crimp new one and insert that.

At this point I seriusly doubt you'll get more useful info by posting more of your observations - time for you to roll up your sleeves and do some work.

Albertj

99RivieraLB wrote:

were would i find the write up

Quote :

I will be driving and it will just die. It can take several minutes to start back up.

When you attempt to start it, does the starter turn over, or does nothing happen when you turn the key?

thank you all for all the help, I pulled up the codes and it only gave me the throttle position sensor #p0122. i know that is not the problem. i am going to go through all the steps that albertj sent and i will be back to let you know the outcome again thank you all for the help, it is greatly appreciated.

99RivieraLB wrote:

thank you all for all the help, I pulled up the codes and it only gave me the throttle position sensor #p0122. i know that is not the problem. i am going to go through all the steps that albertj sent and i will be back to let you know the outcome again thank you all for the help, it is greatly appreciated.

you are welcome, best of luck, hope you fix it right and quick.

Albertj

turns out it was the wiring harness to the coil pack acquired a crack and is not holding proper. THANKS again for all the help everyone and if i have any more problems i will be sure to come here for advice first.

seems to be running better, thanks again