series II build up guidance

I'm taking out engine and tranny next week in my 96 sc. I plan on building an over 300 whp engine with upgraded tranny. I've been doing lots of through the posts but I definitely need some advice. Since I'll be doing the engine ONCE to get the car ready for next spring, I wanna built it up right the first time around...

Any advice or people with set ups that I could look after to reach low 13 high 12s with slicks next spring??

Thanks a lot for your help, tips .

Tommy

My personal opinion if i were to pull the motor and trans for a build?
You will need the following major mods :
DHP Powrtuner.
built trans- 4t60's are harder to come by.
gen V with 3.2 pulley (M90 swaps take a little bit of ingenuity on the 96's)
VS cam w/105lb springs
headers
stage 3 I/C

you will also need a bunch of little supporting mods to make that list workable.

Should have no problem running low 13's with that setup and a 2.0 60'
still daily drivable and reliable if everything is installed right.

And I saw most of the guys here buy there parts from zz performance or intense?

there are 3 big distributors of performance parts for our cars.
The 2 you listed and wbody store sometimes has better deals on certain parts.

clubgp.com is a good place to check for deals too thought.

And you seem to have a nice gen 3 for sale ?? Can I fit it with a 3.2 pulley and will it be enough to reach my goals or do I absolutely need a gen V?

You dont need a gen v. Gen 3 i.tercoolers are a lot more common and cheaper. But a gen v will yield like 10 more hp. Depends on your budget and what you are going for. My gen 3 would be a direct bolt on since it already has the right vac ports for a 96.

But I was wondering... just checking yesterday prices on L 32 engines and they sell for 1200$ complete with a year warranty low millage around here.. wonder if it's worth it?
Thanks Tommy

I haven't researched much about the L32 and don't know of anyone to swap one into a 96. If I recall correctly though, its just a bit more powerful thanks to the gen V sc. IMO, that $1200 can do alot for your L67.

Does that $1200 include the transmission and pcm too? Also, I'm not sure if the wire harnesses are a bit different or not but I believe they are.

To go a little further. That is a good price if your looking for a motor. I think someone here bought a new L32 shortblock for something like $2000?

If your not looking for a new motor, then I would take that 1200 and build the L67.

Moteur Pontiac Grand Prix , 2006-2007.Prix : 1188.00 à 1320.00 Garantie 1 an pièces et main d’oeuvre Cette pièce fait sur plusieurs modèles : GRAND PRIX 06-07 3.8L, w/supercharger (VIN 4, 8th digit, opt L32).

Out of a 2006-07 Grand Prix L32, they got a couple without tranny, tranny goes for about 900$

Man, I'd personally just put that money into your l67. If you end up doing the gen V swap and IC then you'll be putting down just as much power with it as with the L32.

And that price is probably not including the PCM from one of those cars that you will need, nor the wire harness which is going to be a tad different than ours. That is unless you are comfortable modifying your existing harness to work. That would take someone with alot more riv experience to answer.

Thanks I'll be going L67 and keep money for nice parts instead.
Tommy

If your interested, I just put my build sheet. You wont need all of that because your not completely rebuilding, but it will show you where I got my stuff and what it cost me.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t8154-bowers-build-thread#124889

Edit: AA moved my big post above to that build thread above. In case you were confused.

Thank you very much for the much needed infos, costs and parts, your sheet is great!
Thanks again
Tommy

Mr.Riviera wrote:

My personal opinion if i were to pull the motor and trans for a build?
You will need the following major mods :
DHP Powrtuner.
built trans- 4t60's are harder to come by.
gen V with 3.2 pulley (M90 swaps take a little bit of ingenuity on the 96's)
VS cam w/105lb springs
headers
stage 3 I/C

you will also need a bunch of little supporting mods to make that list workable.

Should have no problem running low 13's with that setup and a 2.0 60'
still daily drivable and reliable if everything is installed right.

While the engine is out I would do something very similar, provided you can do your own labour.

VS cam, mild springs (G8 springs are 4$ cdn from the dealership), LS1 retainers & VALVE SEALS
fully port & polish the gen 3
headers. I have a set of SLP headers for sale locally only (they are in Montreal)...pm me if interested.
check the bearings, replace all the gaskets and seals, ALL PULLIES & belts, timing chain & tensionner.
upg to 42 pph injectors. Injector seals should be included in the complete gasket kit.
180 T-stat
new plugs
3.3 or 3.2 pulley, depending on whether or not you want to run 94 or 91 Oct. You can get a modular kit and run a 3.4 until you can tune. I can lend you my DHP.

I personally like dealing with Mike from the W-body store. Unfortunately he doesn't have the complete gasket kit that zzp offers, but I really like his customer service.

Thank you for the offer Jason, but I have to figure out my plan of attack, I've got body and paint, rebuilding engine and tranny, and interior work to do and my goal is get the car ready for next spring!

Best short blocks are L26 normally aspirated 9.5 to 1 compression. They are not listed as compatible because they have the aluminium upper intake and they are cheap, $500 with under 50,000 miles.

Without having to swapp rods or pistons for forged units??

Edit just read that:The L26 is the Series III version of the 3800. It is still a 3.8 L (231 cu in) design. Compression remains at 9.4:1 as with previous L36's, but the aluminum upper intake (2004+) and stronger connecting rods (2005+) are the primary physical changes.

So I'm a bit confused since it's a later engine, is there a difference in sensors, do I have to keep the ones from my 96 and also should I keep my heads or use the ones from the L26.
Thanks for the info,
Tommy

Major differences with L26 are powdered metal rods which are considered better and 9.4 compression. If you are supercharged you will need to use superchared heads and supercharged pulleys from your l67. I believe but don't no for sure all the sensors are same but I would use your original sensors. L26's have different throttle body and a returnless fuel system. They are an excellent short block, no heads, have hypereutetic pistons, a steel crank and higher compression. Higher compression means you will run a bigger s/c pulley and make less boost but they make better horsepower and make great horsepower with and intercooler. My l67 motor has 174,000 miles and when it goes I'm going for one of these blocks. LKQ on eBay has one with 20k miles for $450. Hollander interchange guide doesn't cross them to the older engines because of the aluminium upper intake so they are not in demand.