Fuel Tank/Pump Removal - 1995 Riviera

Big problems with this Riv of mine (again) There seems to be silt/varnish issue with my car. I've had the ingectors cleaned twice. And each time, the car runs like a top for about 300 miles. And then it starts missing. Just got the whole system cleaned out again, but the locking ring on the fuel tank is scary looking.

What recourse do I have if I break the ring?

Does anything in the pump break down and could be the cause of my issue.

What's a new pump worth?

Anyway to clean a tank while it is still on the car?

Looking at it another way, anybody know a fuel cell/ pump that I could bolt into the trunk?

Places like rockauto sell new fuel pumps and i believe they have replacement tank rings.
Our gas tanks are plastic so unless you are filling up with really crappy gas there is another issue.
(hope you are using 93 octane btw)

Have you replaced the fuel filter? its located on the driver side under the car before the rear wheel.

When you say it's "missing" are you seeing a misfire under load or is it hesitating? can you give more details?

Matthew

Fuel filter has been done, plugs, wires as well.
It is a fuel sediment issue. I had this miss under load at low RPM, say at 55mph cruising down the highway.
The dealer cleaned the injectors and it ran like a top. I changed the filter the next day.

300 miles later, same thing, missfire underload. Take it in again, injectors are plugged.Tech says it's a really fine sediment. Clean the rails and lines and injectors.

Runs like a top again. Hate to have to keep doing this if there is more crud at the bottom of the tank to pick up.

So if I crack that bottom ring, all is not lost?

I picked up my Carter fuel pump assembly but now I'm stuck looking for a new fuel tank sending unit lock ring.. No parts store in my area carries it, I will wait until tomorrow to stop by at the Ray Buick dealership by my house in the morn.. I hope I can get this thing back on the road in the morning..

is this the ring you guys are looking for?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1022038,parttype,11238

Is that the upper or lower? I can't tell. Will that fit the 95?

crazyjackcsa wrote:

Is that the upper or lower? I can't tell. Will that fit the 95?

There's only 1 lock ring dude.......

I did this not to long ago. I actually ended up having a wet rag handy and cut the ring off with a dremel and cut-off disk. Don't even try to uncork that ring or you will damage the tank. Once you get the ring out of the way and pull the fuel pump you will be able to see down in the tank.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t6251-fuel-pump?highlight=fuel+pump

Odd you would get repeated clogging with fine sediment. Do you buy your gas at the same station all the time? Are you using AC Delco fuel filters?

I got a weird one for you guys.Im having similar problems.when i park on an incline(nose up) the car starts right up. on level ground,it cranks a few times. when I park nose down(ass up) she takes a few times to crank. is this some weird problem particular to our rivs? several members are having the same prob. whats up ?

1998 Riv wrote:

Odd you would get repeated clogging with fine sediment. Do you buy your gas at the same station all the time? Are you using AC Delco fuel filters?

I wondered the same thing, and I buy gas for all four of my cars at the same 2-3 stations all the time . Granted, I just started buying high-test,so that could be an issue, but I doubt it.

I believe Trevor is talking about the "opposite number" to the lock ring - the metal ring embedded in the top of the tank. And yes, all IS lost if that gets broken - then a new tank is needed.
( Another one of GM's little boo-boos: a rust-proof plastic tank with a rust-prone ring on the top of the tank where dirt & salt collect... )

Eldo wrote:

I believe Trevor is talking about the "opposite number" to the lock ring - the metal ring embedded in the top of the tank. And yes, all IS lost if that gets broken - then a new tank is needed.
( Another one of GM's little boo-boos: a rust-proof plastic tank with a rust-prone ring on the top of the tank where dirt & salt collect... )

That's what I was referring to, and that's just great. Nobody ever try a work around?

crazyjackcsa wrote:

Eldo wrote:

I believe Trevor is talking about the "opposite number" to the lock ring - the metal ring embedded in the top of the tank. And yes, all IS lost if that gets broken - then a new tank is needed.
( Another one of GM's little boo-boos: a rust-proof plastic tank with a rust-prone ring on the top of the tank where dirt & salt collect... )

That's what I was referring to, and that's just great. Nobody ever try a work around?

Having had it apart before, my worst case solution was going to be this:
Carefully drill 4 holes spaced around the hole. (vacuum whilst drilling to get chips)
Run stainless steel machine screws up(from inside the tank) with matching washers on both sides, and nut down.
Make an aluminum or stainless steel ring that fits over the canister where the metal ring would have pushed down.
Bolt down to the four machine screws that were installed before.(using the proper gasket of course.)

As it ended up, my metal tabs were fine. And I understand that not everyone could just fabricate a new locking method. (group buy anyone!? It would actually not be too hard for me to create a "fix-it" kit for if someone broke their tabs... )

I've seen the write up somewhere, but I can't find it. How do you remove the tank? I know there is a fair bit involved, but what exactly is the easiest way? And where do I jack it up/support it?

Do you need to remove it or can you access what you need from the trunk floor hatch?

Tank has to come out. I need to replace it. It needs to be cleaned, the fuel pump ring is broken, and I have no other option.

Anybody?

When i did mine,i let the tank rest on my chest. Once the straps are off,on one side,lines are disconnected,she'll slide out.

Yea, I ended up getting that lock ring at Webb Chevy in Oak Lawn,ILL . After the installation I lubed up the lock ring in hopes of slowing down rust. It should be good for a while. The car has been running great after the fuel pump install.

I went through all those issues. I know the fuel filler tube is very rusty but not sure if that is what is at the bottom of my tank. Thought about trying to suck that stuff off the bottom with a tube like one for cleaning aquariums.

Before you start throwing goldfish in your tank why dont you open up the tank by removing the lock ring and shining a flashlight down there?Dont be surprised if you have to replace the lock ring,so its good advice to have a new one beforehand.Look at the filters,if theyre torn the pump is cooked.

Hi, I had purchased a '95 Riv a few weeks ago. I now know to pull the access panel in the trunk to the fuel pump before a Riv purchase, to check the condition of the lock ring, and metal tabs on the fuel tank. Mine was rusted out, with a nice hole through the lock ring, with a nice amount of water in the gas. Did find a tank with solid lock rings in Utah. Now with $621 in parts with a limited income, collected at a garage, I have ran into another issue which i would like your help with.
My mechanic has told me the gas tank remove/replace isn't as easy as dropping the exhaust and a few straps. A heavy suspension/support unit has to be dropped which is just over the exhaust pipe and under the tank, and much of it was welded-in. It appears to be a problem/issue for him.  
Have any of you ran across this issue of difficultly in dropping a fuel tank, concerning the Rear suspension support assembly? Any tips I might pass on to him in lowering that assembly?
Thanks much for your help.