Write-Up: Subframe/Cradle Mount Insulators & Bushings

And hopefully it doesn't turn into a night mare like mine did when the bolts snap then out comes the welder

This past Friday, I took a ride up to The Auto Center at Reader's Digest. That is where we hold our meetings for the Northeast GS/GN club. Our Director, John Csordas works there, and There are 4 lifts. All I can say is I can't picture myself doing this job on my back. Working on a lift is the way to go. I had no trouble backing all the bolts out. They were pretty corroded, but none were any where near snapping off. I found the front single mounts on each side to be in excellent condition. I guess it's because they are protected with the splash shield. I left them alone, and just installed new bolts with lots of anti seize. The rear two mounts on each side were pretty bad. I had to beat, chisel, and sawzall them out. I'm just glad I could do this standing up.

Amen to all that.A lift is on my list. the older I get the longer the list gets

Hi all! I'm finally getting to swap the transmission on my 95 Riv, and I've run into a problem: two of the subframe bolts spin without much resistance, making a rusty-grinding noise. It's the driver's side front and middle bolts.

EDIT:
Now that I've read this entire thread, I understand better what's going on, but I didn't see that anyone addressed the problem of replacing the front mounted screws. Can someone please explain what they've done in this situation? Thanks!

I've got to redo my cradle bushings soon as well. I've been putting it off because my garage got broken into and my compressor got stolen
I managed to get the middle one out in the past but the retaining screw broke and I put a bolt with a washer in there. I gotta redo it soon and am hoping to do the hockey puck mod. I would really love to hard mount the cradle to the car as I've read others do here on the forum

Anyone doing this mod should get these washers:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91117A229

So far the pucks have not cracked.

absolutely. Running a bolt down on a puck will lead to cracked puck.

how does she ride Matt?and what did you put on the other side of that puck?the same thing?

Nice Mr. Rivi Im going to order those and go to Sports Authority by the house. They have a deal on a 12 pack of huckey pucks. ANy brand or anything specific I should look for in the puck guys?
Thanks for the help

No brand in particular.The cheapest pack will do the job. The most important part of switching to hockey pucks is to have those fat washers,otherwise they will crack when you tighten down the bolts.And you will need shorter bolts.The stockers will be too long! take one bolt down to the hardware store and cut about 2" shorter.should be about 3 1/2 " double check that.

maybe mr.Rivi can take a pic of the completly assembled bolt/puck/washer package and how he put them up in his ride.

There are different types of pucks. Use black, NHL regulation pucks. Don't use Foxtrax or blue color pucks.

??I dont know why that would matter? The blue(junior) pucks are a little lighter but will still knock yer teeth out if yer shootin pucks in the back yard with yer kid!

..an I doubt you can even Find fox pucks any more? an a fox puck would still give you a concussion if slapped with one! I'll take a lisp any day!

Joking about Foxpux, but I seriously wouldn't use the blue junior pucks. They might work, but we know the black ones work, so why test it?

Come on this one glows in the dark! http://images.totalhockey.com/img.aspx?itm_id=4238&div_id=1&pic_type=4

I suppose yer right.If you place a big washer between each puck you would in effect make a super strong unit that would probably never fail.

yeah that link dont work for me greg .But I know what yer talkin about.
I like that! Rudolph the red nosed Riv

sorry for the late response. ive been extremely busy lately.
Here is my setup. only one washer per bushing set.
So it goes [car] [upper oe washer] [ hockey puck with 3/4" hole] [subframe] [ hockey puck with 1/2" hole] [ 3" x 1/4" steel washer with 9/16" hole] [ factory bolt]



just need to get the subframe aligned to the car and replace the rack and pinion to have the steering near 100% again. it never ends lol.

Also want to note i only have this on the rear 4 bushings locations. The front 2 have the bottom pucks and the stock top bushings.
Not too much difference in ride harshness. it definitely is noticeable in the corners and how it responds on the highway. even feels easier to steer in parking lots. I have not altered the car in any way and should something fail or i decide its too stiff i can easily replace everything with the stock bushings and bottom washer.

Nicely done! Even MacGyver would approve this fix.

Those fat washers are bad ass!

But I gotta tell ya Matt,If you havent allready,A washer Should go above the bottom puck and another below the top puck.This way the pucks wont dig into the subframe and crack.Mine did and fairly quickly.So...
Bolt + washer + puck + washer + subframe + washer + puck + oe cup washer.bolt 'er down!
you probably allready did this but just in case....

And if ya dont this is whats gonna happen



The puck started to crack within months.The indentation is from the puck being pressed into the top of the subframe.The bottom one was just as bad but the top puck failed first.

With the washers up against the subframe a failure is unlikely.When I discovered the failed pucks I decided that I was going to weld it all together.
Another point,when the pucks get torqued down without washers on both sides,the wear from the subframe will begin to indent the puck causing a loss of torque at the bolt.Will loosen over time.

Since no one seemed to know what to do to get out the front screws when the nut is spinning, I did some research elsewhere. My neighbor, let's call him "Bob", suggested this:

I drilled out the spot-welds, then just peeled back the metal, giving easy access to the nut. When I'm done, I'll bolt it back together.

btw, I'm going with the hockey pucks. They are cheap, but the washers were a bit pricey.

That is as good an idea as any I guess.As long as welding it all back together is next..why not?!
As for the washers,godown to your local steel store and buy a 12 x 12 sheet of 1/8 " thick steel and make yer own?You can cut the washers with a cut off wheel and a grinder.not pretty but works.or a fat hole saw.

Check these bushings out I found from AZ. Im getting ready to do the mod. Just doing some research before i dig in. I plan on doing the back 4.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Energy-Suspension-2-pcs-red-firm-bushing-universal-complete-isolator-mount-includes-4-pcs-bushing-4-pcs-washer-and-2-pcs-sleeve/_/N-25j1?itemIdentifier=356650&_requestid=243404

Whaddya think?

better to do the front 4.the 2 rear are just along for the ride.

Really Robo? Thanks

So are you just going to use one of those washer that comes with the bushings instead of the oe washer on top?

Yea, good point RidzRiv. I think Im going to go with the OE washers on top because they look sturdier. I'm clunking all over the place while turning. Im at 192,000 on the rivi.. Thanks for the great advice guys. If it wasnt for this forum my Riv would be in the junkyard instead of terrorizing Ricers on Archer Ave..