dual inlet cai

i was wondering if a series 1 engine benefit from a dual CAI system? i found a 4' intake Y to run two cone filters. i know that colder air is better for performance and its best from outside of the engine compartment. So if you would put dual inlets with a single outlet to the throttle body what would be the outcome? would it be a performance dream or nightmare? and is it worth it at the end of the day?
thanks in advance for help and info

.. it really wouldn't make much difference. Maybe free up resistance from an airfilter, but theres not that much resistance from a 9" cone anyway.

Some of the aussie guys would do twin throttle bodies, but the throttle tip-in is "twitchy"

I would say,not having a CAI at all,that youre best bet is to fabricate a smart CAI.In otherwords,plumb youre cai out the front.A CAI thru the wheel well is a dirt pick up all day long.If you can make one with a

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/2147/Naca_Ducts2

any one of those will do.Then you have a CAI. it just takes planning ,thinking,and the willingness to cut into your bumper.
Remember,the lower to the ground your CAI is,the better the air charge will be.

Can a CAI make the intake air temp cooler than the ambient air temperature? is that even possible without and intercooler?

Isnt the goal to keep your intake temp at or close to ambient temps? I dont see how you can actually make the air colder than ambient temps? At least by a noticeable difference. I guess the name 'Cold Air' throws me off a little bit. What about ambient air intakes? a configuration that protects and insulates the intake from the engine heat. especially when standing still at stop lights and such.
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Also, we are being hit by a heat wave in Ohio right now. Most of the time when I punch it I will see KR spike to 1-3 degrees in cool weather. So of course I was real time scanning to see what would happen in the heat since it's my first summer with this car.

Unexpectedly I saw NO KR at all! I was surprised. I punched it to see what the spike would be at, expecting it to be higher than usual, and it stayed flat at 0.

I thought KR was primarily caused by heat/friction?

Cold air just means cold relative to the engine bay. Ambient air = cold air.

My FWI has gone below ambient, but only a couple of degrees. I think it normally reads about 1º lower than the climate control. 95% of the time it's right at or below ambient when the vehicle is moving. When idle it climbs +5-7º, but quickly recovers when up to speed. VERY happy with the FWI + Omega precision thermistor.

You can never really get away from the heat standing still, because the hot air from the engine and other cars around you builds around the car the longer you sit still. The road itself is actually hotter in town because the cars move more slowly and stop more often.

As for your KR, it's very possible the timing is being retarded due to hot intake air. Need to watch IAT on a scanner to know how hot it's getting. Stock timing is cut -1º when IAT 122ºF, -1.5º at 140ºF, and -2ºF at 158ºF. IAT of 158ºF is super easy to do if stopped idle, or even driving slowly, on a 90º day. When timing gets cut, you will see less KR, and less power as a result.

So what would be best? I want to put it the lower bumper under grill... But if its not going to do anything performance wise I would just heat shield my intakw box and put cone filter on and would open inlet port in fender for more air flow