Tranny stuck in 3rd

tranny stuck in 3rd ARGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1WHAT IS IT????????

Man.thats a lot of info.Everything worked fine until I came up to a very short steep driveway coming out of one of the strip casinos.There was traffic on the incline so I put the car in 1st. I drove up the incline and out onto the street.I pulled into traffic to make my way to the far left of the blvd to make a left.I forgot I had her in 1st and when an opening presented,I gunned it.I was surprised at how hard she pulled!? I'm like WTF? then I remembered she was still in 1st.I shifted to drive and made the left hander after the light changed. about a mile or two down the road I felt a heavy thud coming from underneath the car.I came to a stop to check out some tires.After I was done I started her up and hit the road.I turned into the express lane and gave her some gas when I noticed how high the revs were,thats when I knew there was a problem.3rd all the way home.

I thought maybe that would help. The Transmission is definitely the weak link in our cars. Might be time for a rebuild.

It does help.for sure.Thanks! I'll go over all that one at a time.I read somewhere that our trannys solenoids can be R&Rd without removing the tranny.I cant find the post.Question of cracking the case and servicing.I'll try to find it.

Its actually tranny stuck in second.I hope I didnt pop a band or fry my clutches.
anybody have any ideas?

This sounds like something broke, not a solenoid fix. I think BillBoost may have posted about replacing the solenoids but I can't find it.

My engine removal thread started with a radiator, I will see if I can find it.

I removed an engine/trans together from the bottom on a GTP. On my Riv I did the engine and trans seperately. When I dropped the GTP drivetrain, I removed the wiring harness/fluid lines etc, then unbolted the upper engine mounts and upper strut mounts, then the subframe bolts, lowered the subframe to the floor, then used my engine hoist w a chain around the front bumper and lifted the car up high enough to clear the engine. That was a car headed for the junkyard and I was looking for the fastest way out. No need to remove axles, etc, the engine and entire front suspension came out together. Not sure how well the Riv would appreciate being lifted by the bumper like that.

My engine swap thread:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t5778-engine-swap-gen-v

that thread about swapping pcs in car
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t6843-changing-tcc-solenoid-sc-series-ii

Here is the trans removal instructins from the fsm:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t2799p15-write-up-transaxle-removal-installation

thanks!

The oddest thing happend to me tonight. I was moping around bummed that I might need a new trans or at least have to tear into the side cover and replace the solenoids.I popped the hood with every intention of diving into the FSM before bed and try and make sense of what was going on and why she began to act up.I looked over all the electrical connections,everything looked good there,I then jiggled the gear selector linkage when out of the blue I heard a loud POP! same kind of sound when you disconect an air tool. I jumped back and said"WTF!?" I looked over to the compressor thinking My hose just popped,wasnt that, I figured the sound had to have come from the trans,it could not have come from anyplace else! I thought this has got to be some kind of pressure lock I put the trans in when I gunned her across the road in 1st.I then took her out for a spin praying that my hunch was correct and it was! trans shifting into 3rd & 4th wailing her tits off on the highway! Cruze Thanking my lucky stars and gratfful that I was there to witness the trans coming out of some sort of pressure lock.Whew!!!

WOW! Glad to hear it. But of course it leads (probably) all of us to wonder: WTF happened?
Perhaps someone here will chime in with an answer.
I can think of only one thing, but I have to ask 2 questions. Does the Riv have an outside governer? And if so, did you hear a sort of clanging noise coming from below afterwards? If the answer to both is "yes", then I have the answer.

Robo Sounds like you are lucky on this one! I forgot you are '95/4T60E so some of my swap notes may not apply...

Possibly shift solenoid/valve assembly in your trans. I'm changing 2 in my Bonnie (same trans) either today or on the weekend. They are only $20CAN each. GM part #24202614, lotsa work though. OOPS just noticed its working again in later comment, lol.

@ Jamax.-Nope.No clanging.I stood by the driver side of the car pulling wires jiggling things around looking for a loose connection.Then I jiggled around the control cable and the linkage when I heard the PoP.Like a champagne bottle being uncorked.POP! It scared the shit outa me.But no clangly metal scary sounds.Just pure POp.

@Deek-Youre notes are invaluable.

@Klix- How are you gonna do that? I.ve been looking all over for the how to?

I will post some pictures of a step by step for the forum. Basically I will have to start by removing the transmission oil with our suction tank, then the front drivers wheel. Pull the strut assembly and CV axle out. Then I should be able to access the backside housing of the transaxle. I have to seperate it there and swap out the solenoids (hopefully won't have to lower the sub frame) if the is enough space. then replace the gasket and bolt it back together. While i'm in there I am going to replace the strut mounting kit it will all be out anyways and the original is making that grinding and popping sound pretty bad now. I will hopefully get started on it this afternoon the shop is slow so I can get it on the hoist and have at it.

Dude,If you dont make a pictorial I swear I'll send you a lifetime subscription to the Rangers Hockey fan club newsletter.

Coulnd't get at it today, to many vehicles trickling in. I will have to do it on a weekend. I'll make sure I bring the camera those days.

Update on the stuck tranny:
There is a fail safe device somewhere in the trans. It kicks in when the trans gets too hot. It then sends you home in "Limp Mode" I did not know this.I figured it had something to do with a bad solenoid .
I should say the overheating issues began with the instalation of a trans cooler. It was a typical 4 row cooler from Jegs. It did not cool enough.I placed it in the best spot to get cold fresh air from close to the ground. I then replaced it with a Hayden trans cooler with integral fan. I wired it up and have the fan come on at 175 180 deg or so. i have not had a problem since.
I spoke to the reps over at Hayden( cool people) and i was informed that a transmission is not so sensitive to "Operating" temperature as an engine.So 175 to 180 is fine eventho our FSM tells us the Trans operating temp is 200deg.

Word to those who plan to install a trans cooler,make sure it has an integral fan or else.Limp home!

Mine started doing that after I disabled my TCC lock-up. I don't think 200ºF is too hot for our trans, as most of us are running between 200-220ºF on summer days without loosing 4th gear. I think what triggers limp mode is how fast the temp rises when TCC is not locked-up. I've managed to run at 200ºF without losing 4th sometimes, and other times it cuts out as low as 177ºF. My trans cooler usually keeps trans temp below 185ºF, and I usually don't have a problem except on long trips.

Currently my best weapon against the occasional limp home mode (still very rare) is the Aeroforce gauge. In the event I just reset the PCM while driving, takes 5 secs and get 4th gear back for the remainder of the trip.

yup

http://tinyurl.com/9vfkkou

you should hear that little bastard on a hot Vegas day...spinning its little heart away happy as can be!
wwhhrrrr