Team, anything else I should get for XP cam install and Gen V swap?
Yes, fix your broken engine first.
I would also look into putting together your own N* kit and just getting the adapter plate from ZZP. Sure it might be a pain and you'll probably get a grimy old used one instead of a clean refurbished one, but you would save a bit of money. If it was a drive by wire TB I would say to go through ZZP so that in case any of the electronics failed you could warranty it but in this case you should be fine.
turtleman Expert
Name : Codith Age : 36 Location : Villa Park, IL Joined : 2007-02-08Post Count : 3671 Merit : 140
Car will run just fine with an xp and gen v on stock tune as long as you're still running stock fuel injectors and maf sensor etc. If you do want to go ahead and do a n* tb & 85mm maf which I'd suggest since the stock l67 is smaller than what comes along with a gen5 either wait till you take it to get tuned or you can install it and limp it on ve mode (maf unplugged) and then tune it. Will kinda run poorly but it'll run
charlieRobinson Expert
Name : Charlie Age : 38 Location : Toledo, OH Joined : 2011-05-17Post Count : 3923 Merit : 31
Team, anything else I should get for XP cam install and Gen V swap?
Yes, fix your broken engine first.
I would also look into putting together your own N* kit and just getting the adapter plate from ZZP. Sure it might be a pain and you'll probably get a grimy old used one instead of a clean refurbished one, but you would save a bit of money. If it was a drive by wire TB I would say to go through ZZP so that in case any of the electronics failed you could warranty it but in this case you should be fine.
Bro, the engine rebuild and upgrades are going to happen together.
No time for dumpster diving. Im ordering it all and sending it with the Riv to Bill, ASAP
turtleman wrote:
Car will run just fine with an xp and gen v on stock tune as long as you're still running stock fuel injectors and maf sensor etc. If you do want to go ahead and do a n* tb & 85mm maf which I'd suggest since the stock l67 is smaller than what comes along with a gen5 either wait till you take it to get tuned or you can install it and limp it on ve mode (maf unplugged) and then tune it. Will kinda run poorly but it'll run
I have HPT so if I load the new MAF tune and should be ok until I make it to the Dyno?
turtleman Expert
Name : Codith Age : 36 Location : Villa Park, IL Joined : 2007-02-08Post Count : 3671 Merit : 140
Yeah that should be fine. The base import maf table aught to be close enough to make the trip fine. I'd just stay out of pe until it's tuned if possible
69GSColorado Fanatic
Name : Jordon Joined : 2011-07-16Post Count : 406 Merit : 29
Yeah that should be fine. The base import maf table aught to be close enough to make the trip fine. I'd just stay out of pe until it's tuned if possible
Absolutely. Thank you.
What do you think about the grocery list above? Am I missing anything I will need for a proper install?
What about the L26 lower? Worth it?
69GSColorado wrote:
Go intercooled or go home!
Intercooler will come in time.. not ready for that yet.
Last edited by charlieRobinson on Tue Jul 22, 2014 8:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
matt270avian Expert
Name : Matt Age : 28 Location : Frederick, MD Joined : 2012-01-15Post Count : 2681 Merit : 54
Bro, the engine rebuild and upgrades are going to happen together.
No time for dumpster diving. Im ordering it all and sending it with the Riv to Bill, ASAP
That's good at least.
I would take this time to give everything a good coat of paint because I hate putting dirty parts on. Personally I would do a black block with silver/black accent valve covers, silver heads, and a silver/polished SC. It's also a good chance to give the engine bay a good scrubbing. Maybe you could get creative and start hiding things like wires and hoses and vacuum lines.
I would also take this time to consider rebuilding/upgrading the trans and timing chains and to get a set of headers. The trans because breaking those aren't fun, so driveshafts and beefier internals to start. Timing chain because again they're not fun to break/stretch AND you have so many miles it should be done soon anyways for both the chain and the trans. Lastly the headers because power and if you break a bolt the block is out and right there so it would be really convenient to drill it out vs. being under the car going at some weird angle. You could also throw in a bigger radiator but you shouldn't really need it. You could even grab just an intercooler core and worry about plumbing it up and everything once your wallet has recovered from this excursion.
I know people have gone without upgrading the tranny/timing chain with similar setups and have been fine but it sounds like you want more power down the line. However I would put the headers as almost a must because even though you have a plog there will still be restrictions vs. a full set of headers. The engine is going to be putting out and taking in more air so allowing it to breathe properly will give you some nice gains. If you're feeling crazy you could even do a port job on the heads because again, everything is out so now is the time to do it.
Take lots of pictures and keep us informed
turtleman Expert
Name : Codith Age : 36 Location : Villa Park, IL Joined : 2007-02-08Post Count : 3671 Merit : 140
Subject: Re: Charlie Robinson's '99 Riv Wed Jul 23, 2014 12:32 am
Yeah go for the L26/L36 compression. Does Bill get new pistons and stuff or how's that all working?
stan Expert
Joined : 2007-07-01Post Count : 2558 Merit : 12
Subject: Re: Charlie Robinson's '99 Riv Wed Jul 23, 2014 12:43 am
