Ignition Switch problems....

I tried searching but either my search-fu is weak or I'm searching under the wrong terms.

In any case, the ignition key is stuck in the ignition. I can still start the car, just when it comes time to turn the car off and remove the key, it is stuck in the Off position. I ended up taking the remote with me and leaving the keys.

I've had this issue about 10 times in the past and each time I was able to move the shift lever forward and back from Park to 1 and back to Park again (sometimes fairly forcibly), and the key would eventually come out.

Sometimes it took several tries. This time no dice.

I'm sure the battery has been run down by now so I'll have to jump start it to get her running again.

Is there a solenoid or a sensor that releases the key once it knows the vehicle is in park?

I can't believe I'm the only one who has had this problem.

Any tips or trick that I can try?

Thanks!

After googling more online, I see some suggestions of hitting manual overide switch that is under the steering column. Supposedly remove a dime sized cap and stick a screwdriver in to hit the manual overide. Will try this when I get home.

Will also try and remove the trim pieces around the shift lever and see what could be failing there.

So I finally had time to check and see if there was an override. I look under the steering column and it seems there is a recess where a hole would be, but it is solid. Nothing there.

Battery is now dead again.

Car starts and turns off just fine, I just can't remove the key.

surprised no one has commented.

basically you can remove the dash fascia then remove the "clamshell" steering column cover to get to the ignition lock cylinder. You can then remove the ignition lock and replace it with another. It is tedious, and you really ought to have the service manual as a guide. Also there is a decent guide on this site but I can't find it ATM. The locks are available on rockauto.com among other places.

If you take it to an independent mechanic or dealer it should run you about $250.00 to do the replacement. If to an independent mechanic you might want to ask them about making the modification to the column to take the slop out of the tilt wheel mechanism.

Thanks for the tips Albert. The car has been sitting as I haven't had time to address the issue. Luckily I have access to another vehicle.

I'll try and search for the guide and go from there. I just might get lazy and bring it to a shop like you mentioned and have them take out the slop as well.

Cheers!

Jel

Hey guys. I finally got my 96 Riviera put all back together after putting new bearings in the supercharger and fixing valve cover gasket seals. So after 6+ months, getting my fender screwed up by neighbor who can't drive and a car battery later, I'm having a problem. My ignition lock got hard to turn. When I attempt to start it there is some resistance and after I start it , I have to move the key back a bit or the starter stays engaged. In the 2 years I've owned this car I never had a problem with it. but after sitting it's acting up. When I pull the key back it has to be just enough or 1. The engine stops or 2. The ABS light, Traction light, and Check engine light stay on. It's a real bummer. I was excited to get this car back on the road now that the engine is sound. How do I take apart the steering column? Does it sound like I need a new ignition lock? switch? something broken? All help is appreciated. Thanks guys

In general, ignition switch replacement is tedious but not that difficult, basically you remove the "clamshell" that covers the steering column then replace them. There is a write up on how to do it on this site. It would be wise for you to get a service manual, they are oftewon on eBay for cheap. The repair would run 3 to 4 hundred I think at a dealer.

got off work and when i got in the car i noticed the car was still not completely shut off, the milage, trip etc... lights are on,
it started up easy, battery still good when i got home i turned the car off. watched it for a few min, it didn't come back on, so i grabbed a few things out of the car and i heard the fuel pump start up, i looked and the lights were on and gas, temp gauge is on. finally after messin with it for so long, i could only get it to turn off for about 3 seconds. then it comes back on, unhooked the battery for now, be getting up early tomorrow for school, if we don't get this "snow storm"
by the way its 96 S/C no mods accept for gutted air box and heat shield, also 14 mpg open for any advise...

.

Are you turning the key all the way to the lock position for sure? I remember I had 2 chevy Astros that I could remove the key from the ignition whether it was off, running, in accessory mode. Might be a thing to check, otherwise I would assume a short in your ignition switch.
Next time it happens, find the fuse for the ignition and pull it to see if that helps.

like i said i was mess in with it for a while, lol. id made sure it was all the way turned and never had any problems your describing. my friends oldsmobile alero did what your saying, but if it does do it again i will do as you say. and also off topic but the other night i had on my cabin lights cause i was looking for something then when i came to a stop sign they dimmed a lil. then when i hit the gas the brighten up again. is this normal cause iv never noticed it doing before.

A bad battery or alternator can cause those symptoms. When the car is at idle, especially in drive, the engine RPMs are lower than when your moving, the alternator supplies more voltage to the system when it spins faster. Your lights were dim because of lower voltage, when you hit the gas it created more voltage making the lights brighter. Check your voltage at the battery with the vehicle off, and then again while running with a DMM. If both the battery and alternator check out ok, and even if they don't, I would recommend the voltage booster mod.

Actually, there is a booster circuit already built in to the Riv; you need to check your positive cable thermistor.

What can you use to get it from sticking

...at your mileage the best bet is probably to replace the ignition switch and maybe the keyway.

Okay a few weeks ago i remote started my car, got in and turned the key. It turns as if syrup or honey has gotten in to my key cylinder.... Now im really thinking this is the reason for all my trip codes the reason my air bag ses abs tcs lights come on and cause problems .... Right now money is not on my side any simple solutions to get me by for a lil while longer

HeartBeatRivi wrote:

Okay a few weeks ago i remote started my car, got in and turned the key. It turns as if syrup or honey has gotten in to my key cylinder.... Now im really thinking this is the reason for all my trip codes the reason my air bag ses abs tcs lights come on and cause problems .... Right now money is not on my side any simple solutions to get me by for a lil while longer

No.

The key will be tough to turn if the steering wheel is trying to rebound against the lock. Hold the wheel away when you are turning the key. Reduces wear and tear.

Money is tight but the ignition switch you can replace yourself, get the switch off rockauto.com for around $120 (they are way more at dealer) or a local parts store (call for prices) and there are instructions on this site (do a search) for replacing it. You could get the switch even cheaper from moradpartscompany.com if he has any around.

On these cars the *switch* separates from the lock once you have the cover off the steering column it more or less unscrews.

As for those trip codes, it's hard to say if the ig switch is the problem.

I think you need a service manual, they are usually on ebay for less than $50.

My ignition cylinder locked up Thursday. I could get the key out but could not turn it passed the lock position.
Tried everything possible but no dice. I am down in the mountains of West Virginia at dad's house where it locked up. Thank goodness it didn't lock on the drive here..
Advance had a new ignition cylinder here this morning. We drilled the old one out and put the new one in. Only place that can cut me a vats key is the dealership with eta of Tuesday but I gotta be back for work Monday morning. So I used the old vats wiring and taped it to my old key, to use the resistor pellet. Car starts now. Thank goodness. I hear these vat keys are kinda pricey so I might just live with my ghetto rigged bypass solution for a while.

Here's how to do up a bypass all nice like:

http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

Probably pretty similar to what you have, only with an actual resistor instead of the key.

Charlie the VATS keys aren't expensive. My local Buick dealer bought and cut my key for $22 a couple years ago. So if you're wiring up the VATS system back to the new ignition cylinder you'll just need the dealer to get you a key the same resistance as your old one. For fun, there are 12 possible codes for our keys and they use the VIN to figure out what you need .

matt270avian wrote:

Here's how to do up a bypass all nice like:

http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

Probably pretty similar to what you have, only with an actual resistor instead of the key.

pshhhh. I bypassed it with the old key! no need to buy anything more!

Z-type wrote:

Charlie the VATS keys aren't expensive. My local Buick dealer bought and cut my key for $22 a couple years ago. So if you're wiring up the VATS system back to the new ignition cylinder you'll just need the dealer to get you a key the same resistance as your old one. For fun, there are 12 possible codes for our keys and they use the VIN to figure out what you need .

I might do it for ~$20. Thing is... even with the bypass in place, my security light is now lit solid. Before it would blink intermittently because ( I assume ) the contacts were not touching perfectly. Because if I wiggled it, the light would turn off.

But now, with the vats contacts taped right to the resistor on the old key, the security light is lit solid. I dont understand?! It starts perfectly but why wont the light go away?

IT KNOWS WHAT I DID IT TO!!!