5.25 MB Quarts- hot deal

The following is my opinion, and only theoretical... but I believe it to be true.

Tweeter attenuation settings can depend on whether or not the speakers are listened to on-axis or off-axis. Most good car speakers are designed to play flat in off-axis configuration. A very good driver system can play flat at 60º off-axis. However, the same system listened to directly on-axis (like a home audio system) can sound overly bright, even harsh. I believe this is why you see the treble attenuation offered for car audio speakers, and less so for home audio.

For a door mount application such as in the Riviera, the tweeter firing is off axis as intended, so we can assume this is what the -0bB setting is for. It is the "normal" response, and will give the loudest high frequency response (but flat off-axis).

If you were using a kick panel configuration, which aims the tweeter more directly at the listener from the floor, say 30º off-axis, you may find the treble is bright. To correct this, the -3dB setting may work better. If you have the skills to design and build, or the bucks to buy, I feel this is the best way to mount speakers in an automobile due to more equal path-lengths. Anyone who's done it can attest that coaxials mounted in kick panels = near sonic bliss.

For pillar or dash mounting (I don't recommend either, but it can be done), where the tweeter is both firing more directional and in closer proximity to the ears, the -6dB setting makes the most sense.

But these are just starting points. Let your ears make the final decision. It's just good to know why these settings exist when starting out. For the crossover boxes, I have mine mounted inside the doors, rear of the stock tweeter. It's a tight fit, but I got mine wedged in there and seems fine. Not sure about the Quarts, though.

Yeah the speakers I got looked a lot different than the ones you have... and they have a slightly different They have a bridged tweeter rather than a component tweeter and also are made of apparently paper , which i have concerns about how it will hold up in the hot humid florida weather here..... I'll post pics up in a bit.

I thought all the older MB Quarts were paper. It's part of their formula. Nothing wrong with it - they'll hold up. Some of the best speakers in the world are made of paper.

A bridged tweeter is a component tweeter as long as it uses an outboard crossover network. It will sound better because it doesn't let you separate the two drivers (keeps components as single point source). Lots of people like to take component set and mount the tweeters in funny places like A-pillars, dash, or AC vents. This will not usually give the best sound, and it's part of why the MB Quarts sound good. I have a set of true separates in the doors, with tweets mounted on home-made bridges:

This is what i got today....nothing like what has been pictured elsewhere...in fact mine have a different model number than


Well AA i won't worry about them being paper then...but why are mine so different than his and the ones pictured? Mine have the model number QM 130 KX.

Hmmm.. that's odd that they look so different. Let's see what Ryan says, then maybe contact the seller for an explanation. I agree, we should all be getting the same pair of speakers here.

Seller says these are the newer versions. Quick response on the sellers part. He offered to exchange but I think i'll just keep these. Unless Ryan or anyone else has any input?

It may make a difference. I'd hold off installing until we know more. I think the older ones are the good ones - Riviera owners need the good ones!

Well, in his Q & A section at bottom of auction, he states the model number as you have received.

So I got the "Older" ones evidently. You got whats actually being sold.

Now which one is better? I dont know. TBH for $38 shipped its moot. Even if yours is a little worse, probably the best $38 out there....

On a side note I just got my scale today. So I should be able to get some more T/S specs on the mid bass portion.

Sounds good to me Ryan. Speakers will be installed today. I'll post my opinions of how they sound after they go in.

Got these in. I'm not sure if it would be a problem with the older model like Ryan has , but the speaker cover doesn't sit in all the way since they are quite a bit larger than OEM , but it doesn't protrude noticeably , and I'm really anal about that sort of thing...


But I must say , these sound fantastic! The imaging is amazing , the clarity is awesome , they take a little more power to drive than the infinitis , but they're just incredible for the price and incredible period. Right away I noticed improvement over the infinitis , which aren't bad speakers by any means. Going from stock speakers to this would just be a night and day difference. Could they be better? Probably but at this price these are untouchable.

Glad they're working out.

For the grills, you can take a dremel and carefully trim out some plastic from the back sides of the grill covers. That's what I had to do to make mine fit.

Yeah i figured I'd do something along those lines eventually. For now its not that noticeable. Thanks for the tip.

Could I run these speakers off a pioneer DEH6600 50watt X4 deck. I'm not looking for anything spectacular just want to get rid of my concert 2's.

^^^ Yes.

I got mine today. They appear to be what's pictured on eBay, model number QM 130 KN-S.

Now back to my previous question - how do you install these? I don't want to take my doors apart and find I need to go get tools or parts.

- Remove the grills by opening the doors and carefully lifting up from the bottom.

- To use the stock wiring, remove and disconnect the stock mids.

- Disconnect the stock tweeters, but leave them mounted in the door.

- Depending on how the speakers are set up, you may need to find a few female crimp quick-disconnects like pictured, ones that fit the speaker terminals:



- Some wiring may be included to link the crossover to the mid and tweeter. If not, use the crimping tool to crimp the connectors to some 16 guage wiring.

- Connect the stock wiring to the crossover observing correct polarity. I'm guessing they're screw terminals (insert .50" stripped raw wire). For left channel brown is (+) and grey is (-), for right channel, light green is (+), dark green is (-). The wiring should go "in" the crossover box, then "out" to the mid and tweeter for each channel. Do this the same for both sides.

- See if the crossovers will fit in the door, behind the OEM tweeter. If not, you may need to mount them under the dash and feed wire runs through the door (rubber flex boot).

- When wired up, test the stereo for connectivity. Use balance and treble controls to make sure all speakers are working. Set the tweeter to -0dB on the crossover, set balance and bass/treble knobs back to 0 (flat).

- Mount the drivers in the doors. Tighten the mounting screws, but not too tight. Listen. If tweeters sound too loud, remove the drivers and set tweeter settings to a lower level.

Aaron, did you disconnect the factory front tweeters or leave them connected along with your aftermarket component speakers?

Other random question - did you modify the enclosure at all? ie dampening mat, sealer, etc.

- Disconnect the stock tweeters, but leave them mounted in the door.

Hmm, I do not have a crimping tool. Won't regular pliers do? If not I will go buy the crimping tool.

How should I mount the box parts?

Thanks for the instructions!

You should get the proper crimping tool, they are not that expensive. Try Sears or local auto parts store.
I have about 5 different kinds for crimping all sorts of connectors but I always reach for the one I got from Sears many years ago to crimp solderless connectors. Has served me well for over 20 years now. You might be able to get a small kit with misc. connectors and tool.

Are there any wires included in the set? If so, they should have the connectors on one end. You only need to crimp if the wires aren't included. To do it properly, you need a crimping tool. Kline makes a good one:



Link: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-J1005-Journeyman-Crimping-Cutting/dp/B000936OTY

Craftsman makes them for a little less, or you can get a cheap pair for about $6.

No wires or connectors or instructions came in the box. Just speakers and crossovers.
Sears crimpers are much less than the Klines, But I agree the Klines are the best of the bunch. Just not necessary for the occasional electrical work.

I advise crimping pliers as shown.

If you can find the same tool in an affordable price so be it.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=360-620

What about this -



What are you using for crimp disconnects? I've got some I bought at Wal-Mart years ago. Not gold audiophile quality stuff, just plain jane pieces. What about wires?

Is there a technique to crimping? Crimp on the split side of the connect, or avoid it?

Which terminal on the speaker is positive, and which is negative? I noticed one is bigger than the other.

How does the stock woofer detach? Unsolder it at the terminals?

Finally, where are you guys putting the crossovers?

Those crimp tools are about junk. You cant get a good enough crimp.

With the ones were showing, the crimps so strong you could swing from speaker wire like vines...

Ok enough Tarzan talk...

Ive mounted crossovers in doors before. Only issue with doors is moisture.... Its best to mount inside the cabin somewhere.