The "Big 3" Wire/Cable Upgrade

A higher amp alternator should help. I think albertj meant you're wasting your time with just the alternator wire, hoping for a cheap fix. But if you are laying a foundation for a higher output alternator unit, I wouldn't call it a waste. Doing only the wire upgrade isn't going to solve your issue.

Extra batteries might help with the power surge, but their chief purpose is to enable you to play the system longer with the engine off.

oh ok..well thanks for tha help...i guess i just have to spend that 200+ then.... lol

Upgrading the cables will not help you get more amps from an underrated alternator.

It is debatable if it will help you get a 'better' charge from a high output alternator. The OE wire is pretty robust. For that you can buy the cables I mentioned from any auto parts store with a selection of battery cables. ZZP's upgrade kit is specifically for W-bodies and probably not even close to what you need.

Sorry, I can't take pictures. I don't have the car anymore! But next time my brother stops by I will try to get a pic.

ok thanks..no more rivi???? i dnt kno if i can give up my rivi lol..i couldnt even give up my 96 roadmaster lt1..its in the driveway with tranny problems

dboydakid wrote:

foreal??? i thought if i just get a higher amp'd alternator my problem would be solved.

see, i recently purchased a alternator from advanced auto and it failed., i had to get a new one fast.so i went to junkyard and got a cheap one..ever since my lights dim, flicker, when the heats on it goes in and out..so i got the power cable to hold me over until i got a new alternator. the suggestions above had me wanting to try them until i get a new/more powerful alternator since the cable is not compatible with my riviera

The real problem is - this is not all your fault - you have not got a properly working alt in to begin with.

I looked at the Autozone site - it's kinda funny actually - they offer Valucraft and Duralast rebuilt alts at the same price, they give you more for the core on the Valucraft which nets it out to $20 cheaper. Both appear to be Remy units (it is not DelcoRemy any more) with the funky plastic fans having the steel face plate. And the "premium" Duralast unit is only available special order. Looks like they are just waiting to pwn people with these things...

What could have happened is someone bought one of those things, cleaned the case of their old one with electrical cleaner (you can get it at NAPA, sometimes at AutoZone, it's called CRC Lectra-Motive, works great) put it in the box and returned it, then you got it when you bought it...


So one of your next moves is to return the autozone unit for refund or replacement. If you take a replacement try to be sure that it actually is newly remanufactured and not returned. They have alternator testersin teh store, ask them to hook it up and spin it for you just to make sure.

As for that junkyard alternator, the Riv alternator is common to that era GM car and unique only, IIRC, in that the case is clocked funny so it will fit under the Riv hood or some such. Ask the junkyard about swapping the one you got for another. People don't junk their vehicles over alternators, odds are the JY will do the swap and the replacement will work fine. They will sell the core to a remanufacturer for $5 to $15, so it's not like they are doing you that big a favor.

All you really need to do is get a decent alternator to begin with. Consider doing the following;

1) allow Autozone to "make good" on your bum reman alt.
2) if you take a refund from Autozone (that is they don't have any replacement to swap to you) take the money and either (a) go to a GM dealer parts counter (buick/chevy/GMC/whatever) and get one of theirs if they will sell you one for around $180 or less or (b) get one from GMPARTSDIRECT.COM or MONSTERPARTSONLINE.COM -- They list for $250 and sell via GMPARTSDIRECT part num 19135955 for $125 plus shipping and $25 core (they don't really want the core, it will cost you almost that much to mail it back so don't bother). Given the timing, the shipping and so on if you can get it out of a local dealer for under $200 you're OK and the lower the better. The dealer alternators are remanufactured and tested, IIRC, on one of the older actual manufacturing lines for new alts, to new specs -- getting a reman GM dealer alt will get rid of the headache so to speak. Usually the dealer alts are new all but for the case and maybe the rotor. They usually even press new slip rings on the rotor which frankly is a mean trick. They may as well be new and in my experience will run many years for you.
3) if you have access to air tools you can take the pulley off your JY alt and open the case. Parts to overhaul it are available on rockauto.com mostly for short money - yeah the rectifier pack is about $90 but the rest of the parts are $5 to $10 each) and after you get the case apart you can do the rest with typical hand tools, directions are easy to find using a search engine on the internet.

wow..thanks again..big help

So as not to overlook anything, is there an aftermarket stereo system installed in your car? If so, please list the fuse rating for each power amplifier.

AA wrote:

So as not to overlook anything, is there an aftermarket stereo system installed in your car? If so, please list the fuse rating for each power amplifier.

good point... thought we'd already asked but I guess not... high powered stereos have to get that high power from somewhere and stock alt might not do enough. There are lots of postings on the web about alt upgrades and aux battery installs for such a thing. Not my cup of tea, though.

Albertj

i upgraded the "Big 3" in my 1997 Riv, stopped the lights dimming completely. Stock battery, stock alt.
1 JL 450/4, 1 JL 1000/1 running 12W7. These JL amps are a bit more power hungry than an equivalent amp from another brand because they use RIPS, and keep their wattage output the same even down to voltage drops to 10V.

Later, i added 1 more 12W7 and 1 more JL 1000/1. But i also installed a Power Bastards HO alternator. Which i will be posting for sale in the sale section shortly since the car died about a week after lol.

I know this is an old post and I apologize for digging it up, but need confirmation on wire gauge. From reading through this thread it was confirmed the stock wire gauge from battery to jump start terminal is 2awg, correct? I don't see any labeling on the wire itself nor anything mentioned elsewhere other than length. Thanks!

I don't think it's that large. If I had to guess I'd say the OEM is 4 or 6 gauge.

AA wrote:

I don't think it's that large. If I had to guess I'd say the OEM is 4 or 6 gauge.

My initial thought was 4 gauge. I asked on Aurora forum as well but nothing concrete. Anyone else? I appreciate it!

IMO, run the largest you can afford. 2 gauge is a good dia for that run length, unless your system demands larger.

It looks like for sure 4gauge to me

Thanks for the input!

Ended up upgrading all mine to 1/0 welding cable. A Big 5 if you will. Very simple process. Built up a 240A alternator as well.