Loud tapping in the engine

This is crazy. I hope it works out okay. Good luck!!!

*Voice of Professor from Futurama* "Good news everyone!" I called the 1-800 number and got ahold of the Sealed Power tech. The tech told me that the email I was sent had a dyslexic part number. The E532K was what I wanted, not E352K. I thought as much. At any rate the part under Sealed Power is Obsolete/Discontinued. He gave me the part numbers that matched E532K for MAHLE and Hastings. RockAuto.com carries the MAHLE part number 41614. I checked the measurements and they will match my car. A big sigh of relief on my part. Now I can finish my engine rebuild with confidence.

Wolfmaster579 wrote:

*Voice of Professor from Futurama* "Good news everyone!" I called the 1-800 number and got ahold of the Sealed Power tech. The tech told me that the email I was sent had a dyslexic part number. The E532K was what I wanted, not E352K. I thought as much. At any rate the part under Sealed Power is Obsolete/Discontinued. He gave me the part numbers that matched E532K for MAHLE and Hastings. RockAuto.com carries the MAHLE part number 41614. I checked the measurements and they will match my car. A big sigh of relief on my part. Now I can finish my engine rebuild with confidence.

Good news!!! Phew!

Alright tech heads, gotta question. Remanufactured Cylinder Heads came in yesterday. What difference will it play on my engine if the previous Valve Heads were flat and the ones that came on the reman Heads are, for a lack of a better phrase, cut out or bowled like my pistons are?

Wolfmaster579 wrote:

Alright tech heads, gotta question. Remanufactured Cylinder Heads came in yesterday. What difference will it play on my engine if the previous Valve Heads were flat and the ones that came on the reman Heads are, for a lack of a better phrase, cut out or bowled like my pistons are?

Maybe just slightly lower compression, thats all I can think of.

x2 on lower compression. If the cc is dished, it's possible you need to make sure the rockers etc. are the same. Have you ever used a degree wheel and mic on a valvetrain? (ie degree a cam?)

The reman heads came with deep dished intake valves and shallow dished exhaust valves already installed with new seals and springs etc. I am reusing my original push rods, rockers, pivots and most of my rocker bolts. There were a few that had messed up threads and needed replaced. And no i have never degreed a cam. But I will research it.

Alright folks. Next step is buying and installing the lifters for my Rivi. Does anyone know of something to explain adjusting the valves? For as simple as the design is, it is even possible to adjust the valves? I am buying preloaded lifters, FYI. I have a few links, but they are more for performance roller cam lifters which don't apply to me. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks.

I don't think the valves need adjusting on these engines. Someone correct me if im wrong.

This is the link I found.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89o5rLpbCgI

At 1 minute it briefly talks about non-adjustable valves which is what I have. Just wondering if Zero Lash is anything I need to worry about or just install and torque and call it a day. I'm picking up the lifters and assembly lube today and might start tinkering since I have more time today.

You really don't have any adjustment options with the stock valvetrain components. Rockers are not adjustable. Install to torque and call it a day. Compare the new lifters to the old ones, make sure they are the same height etc.

okey doke. ill still follow the firing order as i torque down, like in the video regardless of adjustable rockers or not. Should be fine. I'm excited to get these in and done.