Write-Up: Removing the Crank Pulley/Harmonic Balancer

there is almost no room i either need a lift or some c4 to blow this fucker up also autozone said there is a special battery that i need to get

ok,the picture is a little broader now. if you dont have any work room and no leverage or space for tools,you have to get that battery.i mean,you cant drive the car without one! as for the special battery,well theyre big fuckers thats for sure.and az dont allways have em.you can also use a optima battery.you might have to splice in a longer negative cable.i had to. get the battery and bump the bolt.
if you cant wrap your head around all the suggestions,consider a mobile mechanic to come to the house.

there is almost no room i either need a lift or some c4 to blow this fucker up also autozone said there is a special battery that i need to get

Impact fer sure! Never had a problem with good air tools.

dartcars wrote:

there is almost no room i either need a lift or some c4 to blow this fucker up also autozone said there is a special battery that i need to get

Ummmm.... you need a "Group 79" battery.  If you want a cheap way out call some junkyards in your area and find one.  They were in many mid-90s and early oughties ('00) CBOP (Cadillac, Buick, Olds, Pontiac) cars.  I imagine from a junkyard you are talking $25 to $50 depending on condition and the yard's avarice.

....i dont know aj,i think he C4'd the fucker and blew the block up!

i was about ready to blow it up robtennis61 but luckly i finally got the center bolt out i ve been researching online and it shows that there is a special puller for gm cars. the bolts are non standard does any one know the specs of the bolts? or if i could get them from a regular hardware store or do i need a specially hardware?

...she aint quit bein a bitch just yet.....

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t1535-write-up-removing-the-crank-pulley-harmonic-balancer?highlight=harmonic+balancer+removal

ya might be ok after this.
whatever you do get a good harmonic balancer or you will be doing this again real soon.

bitches are never happy lol

i have a 97 buick riviera i am trying to remove the harmonic balancer to change the crank shaft sensor but i am currently having trouble getting the motor to stop spinning in order to remove the harmonic balancer any help is much appreciated

You can do one of three things: remove the plastic flexplate (flywheel) cover on the bottom of engine, near transaxle. Use a flat screw driver or locking pliers to hold the flexplate in place while loosening the crank screw.

Or, you can just use an impact gun. It will loosen without turning over the engine.

Last method is to mount a breaker bar to the crank pulley, rest it against the frame, then turn the key for a split second to crank the engine.

yes they like to make it a pain in the ass

i already have the center bolt out i just need to stop it from spinning in order to use the puller tool

I always use the 'lock the flywheel' method. It's really not that hard to get the cover off (two 10mm head bolts) and sometimes you need an assistant if you can't find the right size screwdriver/angle but it guarantees you don't have things turning while you work.

There is a tool meant for turning a flexplate. It hooks on to the teeth in two places. You need two people, but that is the best way.

Rickw wrote:

Also remember the Bolt is TTY. One use and throw it away. Buy a new one for re-installation of the Balancer.

Where does one get the HB bolt? I don't see it on Rock Auto.

Jack the R wrote:

Rickw wrote:

Also remember the Bolt is TTY. One use and throw it away. Buy a new one for re-installation of the Balancer.

Where does one get the HB bolt?  I don't see it on Rock Auto.

...do not pass Go, just call a NAPA store. Also, Advance Auto may have it as a Dorman OE Solutions item (especially if that store used to be a CarQuest), ask at the desk. That failing, a local mechanic will probably just tell you where they get them.

Do any of these look right - Link

I'll have to mail order since my local NAPA went out of business.

Jack the R wrote:

Do any of these look right - Link

I'll have to mail order since my local NAPA went out of business.

Seriously, just phone a NAPA in a neighboring city. GM does not have much variation in this kind of hard mechanical part. They will likely sell you the BK 7355961 (Balkamp) or the NOE 6000186 (NAPA Solutions).

I guess I will - they wanted $21 to ship a $5 part!

Jack the R wrote:

I guess I will - they wanted $21 to ship a $5 part!  

Oh, well. Again, the Advance Auto (former Carquest) places would be good for that as well.

Jack the R wrote:

Rickw wrote:

Also remember the Bolt is TTY. One use and throw it away. Buy a new one for re-installation of the Balancer.

Where does one get the HB bolt?  I don't see it on Rock Auto.

JR,
I bought mine from a local GM (Cadillac) dealership. Called them and they had it in 1 to 2 days time IIRC.
Easy peasy.

Let me be sure I have this set up right before I crank it.

BTW do we have the same problem with the engine turning when tightening the bolt as with loosening it?

As long as that breaker bar doesn't move, yeah, that will work.  The crank turns clockwise, so that will break the bolt loose.  I would take the belt off, you'll need to anyway.

You will have to lock the crank if you want to tighten it back up with a torque wrench.  Vice grip on the flex plate, or a screwdriver positioned in the flex plate to lock it.  I've even seen guys feed some nylon rope into a plug hole to act as a piston stop.  The VERY BEST way is to use an impact wrench.  I bought this Dewalt impact gun last year.  It is incredible.

https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/impact-drivers-and-wrenches/20v-max-xr-high-torque-12-in-cordless-impact-wrench-with-detent-pin-anvil-kit/dcf899p1

I just finished replacing the gasket for my timing cover on the GS455.  It sprung a coolant leak last week.  The Dewalt zipped that bolt off in less than 5 seconds.  That bolt needs to be torqued to 200 ft. lbs. MINIMUM.  The Dewalt tightened it back up in the same amount of time.  I marked the bolt and balancer before I loosened the bolt.  The Dewalt made it even tighter.  It zips off lug nuts with ease.  700 ft. lbs max torque.  Used it to replace my flex plate on the same car.  The crank bolts had red locktite.  It didn't matter, off they came.

That bolt is supposed to be replaced according to the FSM. It's a torque to yield bolt I guess. Tighten the new bolt to 111 ft lbs. Then another 76*. That's what the FSM says. When I had my crank sensor done years ago, we just used the air impact wrench to tighten it back up. It's been fine, at least 7-8 years ago.