Write-Up: Spindle / Wheel Bearing / Hub Replacement

Saliboat, can you post some pics of your brake caliper configuration?

AA wrote:

Saliboat, can you post some pics of your brake caliper configuration?

I'll try and get some pics up at soon as possible but I just recently bruised my ribs while grappling so it's very painful to turn wrenches. I'll see what I can do

Longer than expected but while doing the swaybar end links I had the opportunity to snap a pic of my caliper config, ( Yes im the same person as SC_Sailboat ) here it is. im pretty sure this pic explains what I was talking about:

Todd: username SC_Sailboat will be deactivated. Please post under Juggernaut from now on. Thx.

AA wrote:

Todd: username SC_Sailboat will be deactivated. Please post under Juggernaut from now on. Thx.

Thanks!

Anyone confirm this for the 95s?

Was hopefully aiming to get at this today...but if this is the case I need to find some hex wrenches and a t55 wrench....

The vid is standard procedure for changing the hub (in a perfect world, at least). Or, just see page one of this thread for a Riv-specific write-up. Some years have the Allen hex head screw for caliper brackets, later years have a regular hex head.

Every mechanic works a bit differently. I personally don't like using cheater bars and pipes as a first line of action for smaller bolts like the 3 on the hub. If you have an impact wrench, start at low setting and work up. You'll notice the video shows everything going as expected, except for the hub separation. Your situation will likely contain a few bumps along the way. The axle usually WILL NOT tap out that easily. Our write-up mentions a few of these situations and how to deal with them.

Finally, I had to laugh when they put new brakes on one side. Typical mechanics' way to make a buck. Pads and rotors should always be replaced in pairs, but hubs needn't be done in the same way. They may have done the other side, but they make no note about doing so. Either way, they made an extra dollar from their customer - unnecessary brake job, or unnecessary hub job.

I'm without air tools/impact wrenches and the like so I welcomed my pvc cheater pipe haha Performed operation exactly like video save for new brakes of course. Hub came out in one piece and drifted out surprisingly easy. Simple job all in all. Definitely glad to have the experience and a fresh hub

Congrats! Glad to hear things worked out. Your location probably helped a lot. In the snow belt, corrosion can sometimes make parts seize and fasteners a job to remove. I've broken my share of bolts (and tools) using long handled wrenches. An air or electric impact can be a big help when things get stuck on real good. Hope your new hub holds up for many thousands of miles!

Oh my yes. The Riv was a Valencia, Ca car and the two Reattas are from Florida and Seattle so no real salt impact to any of them thank goodness. Here's lookin at another 100k at least! haha

My new hubs already have a bunch of play in them . Serves me right for cheaping out..... Timken here I come....

Autocrossing is hard on cheap hubs!

after driving in a dramatic fort lauderdale thunderstorm, the in-dash ABS lamp in dash illuminated.
this 95 riv set a dtc code suggesting RIGHT FRONT "wheel speed sensor erratic or missing".
probably water, or maybe sand managed to get into the sensor/toothed-ring assembly

rock auto shipped a Raybestos hub bearing assembly with ABS sender integral.
while removing the old bearing, the OEM unit broke into 2 pieces and left the speed counting
assembly in the knucle.

this hub was disassembled 3 weeks ago and sat undisturbed while i was in Belize.
after actually living in a brothrel and remaining inebriated for a couple of weeks,
i managed to forget which way this RIGHT brake dust-shield gets re-installed.

so, yesterday it carefully went back together as per the factory repair manual.  here is the scan:

https://s279.photobucket.com/user/Lmckinley99/media/riviera_1995_dustshield.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=0
..............................

but now the dust shield rubs on the brake disk.

Question:
is "the book" mistaken ?


should the dust shield be held on by the torx bolt heads as per the drawing in the book ?
.or.
should the dust shield be squeezed between the steering knuckle and the bearing housing ?

i'm hoping somebody can examine a correctly assembled Riviera and provide the answer.

[ note: my dust shield was not abused during disassembly.  it is not bent or damaged.  
this is a southern car and there is no corrosion or scuffing to the painted tin ]

my choices are to bend the dust shield
.or.
to disassemble and move the dust shield .3inch inboard, "behind" the bearing =.

thanks to the community in advance.

The dust shield goes between the bearing and the knuckle IIRC. Depending on how badly it rubs and how lazy you are, you could probably just bend it out of the way.

Are you sure you didn't put it on upside down?

in the nicest way, i will respond to the above reply while attempting to .not. flame.

1. i asked the community to be the definitive authority re where the dust shields live.
[ the factory manuals do sometimes include rare mistakes ]
2. my dust shield was thoughtfully re-installed as per the illustration in the GM Service Manual.
3. matt270avian suggested the dust shields reside between the bearing assy and the steering knuckle
.and.
4. matt270avian wondered if i "put it on upside down?"
5. matt270avian posited that, depending on how lazy i am, the dust shield could simply get reshaped by bending

reply:
this 1995 riv has been pampered in every way
i am not lazy
even before this car was assembled in 1995 at Lake Orion, i held ASE Master Status Certification
therefore, it's not likely this dust shield was installed "upside down".  
because of the clearances re the steering knuckle, the shield cannot be installed upside down or backward.
it is shaped like a cereal bowl with holes & slots.

here's something to consider:
my riv's left bearing is original, and a photo is attached:

https://s279.photobucket.com/user/Lmckinley99/media/riviera_1995_dust_shield_left_2177_72.jpg.html?filters[user]=72069837&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

the image indicates the LEFT dust shield is attached OUTSIDE of the bearing casting.
i believe we can all agree that generally, GM does the same thing on the left and right sides.

THE QUESTION IS, HAS MY LEFT DUST SHIELD BEEN INCORRECTLY INSTALLED BY A INCOMPETENT DURING THE PAST TWO DECADES ?

so,
PERHAPS my RIGHT SIDE dust shield is correctly installed, even though it scrapes lightly on the brake disk.
"the world is a very strange place", and i have no explanation...

it would be excellent if a member who has a "positively" correctly-assembled right front hub could verify.

again,
this is a great community.
my riv is a wonderful car and is more fun than this:

https://s279.photobucket.com/user/Lmckinley99/media/delorean_Lmck_1992.jpg.html

.plus.

the riv is just as quiet and gets much better gas mileage than this:
https://s279.photobucket.com/user/Lmckinley99/media/zz_the_kid_1993.jpeg.html

I wasn't trying to be mean or call you lazy or anything. I just know how much of a pain it is to get the hubs out, especially just for the dust shield, and I would probably end up just bending them. When I took the '96 parts out on mine the dust shield was between the knuckle and the hub, and they were original as far as I know. That and the '95/'96 share the same front end as far as we know. Maybe it got bent at some point, so it needs bent back to where it needs to be?

Does anyone know off the top of their heads what the OE torque setting is on the front axle nuts for a 96 SC Riv?

Good Morning,

My '97 factory service manual says 107 ft-pounds for the axle nut.

Jack C.

So my driver's side wheel hub is making noise, not too loud, but I know the sound.  No ABS light.  So I pull it apart because I need to do front brakes as well.  Everything goes great.  I had bought a Timken bearing as a spare probably 4 years ago.  I put the Timken in, get all done, turn the ignition on, and guess what?, ABS  and traction ctrl off light on steady.  Take the old bearing, and plug it in, ABS and TC light go off.  At first, I thought maybe I pinched the wiring, or broke one, but no, everything looks just fine.

I go on Rock Auto, and a new Timken is 76.00.  I then look at all the Hub bearings and there is a Power Stop brand, for 26.89, and it has a red heart next to it, which means one of their most popular parts.  I say, what the hell, the Timken box says made in China, and I have no doubt that this one is made there as well.  I'll take a chance and see.  For 33.00 shipped, I bought one.  Let's see how long it lasts.  Today is July 6, 2021, and I have 201,097 miles.  I'll update this thread if and when it fails.  If I get a year out of it, I'll be happy.  The Power Stop bearing looks good, and feels good turning it.  It shut the ABS light off as before I even put it in, I plugged it in.  I drive this car nice and easy, no slalom or auto crossing If this bearing is decent, it should last.