Write-Up: Spindle / Wheel Bearing / Hub Replacement

AA wrote:

If you have the correct torque wrench on hand, there's no reason not to use it.

But if you don't...

Eldo wrote:

I know I'll catch hell for this, but in almost 30 years of servicing my own disc-brake calipers I've never used a torque wrench... Tighten them slowly, then give them, at most, another 1/4-turn after they're "normal tight".

There's a Torque Wrench? For Brakes? Wth is a Torque Wrench?

Quote :

But if you don't...

madrivage asked for a specific torque value. You think he might have a torque wrench?

When it comes to brakes, just make 'em railroad tight. You'll be set.

Sorry, I know that was no help at all.

Sweepspear wrote:

When it comes to brakes, just make 'em railroad tight. You'll be set.

Sorry, I know that was no help at all.

Hey, I like it...

Thanks for uhh...clearing it up?? I was just a bit confused in regards to the torque spec on the caliper bracket.I've never used a torque wrench on a caliper myself,and I saw "caliper torque" listed at over a hund. Ft Lbs.I was tripping out,I thought they were saying the calipers required that much.Then one of you pointed out it was a caliper *bracket* that required the heavy torque.I

DONT try to wrench on the torx bolt. rather,hold the torx in place while you loosen the upper control arm nut on the other end. wrenching the torx will have you driving again and again to the parts counter for another......

Great thread. I'm going to do this job this weekend and think I will spring for the timken's down at AZ. It doesn't seem like I'll need to do a wheel alignment after this job but wanted to ask the question, is it necessary?

Also I looked them up at AZ and are a different part number than the one Aaron put up in his thread. I have a 95, are the hubs different year to year?

Aaron: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t45-part-number-listing
AZ: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Timken-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Assembly-Front/1995-Buick-Riviera/_/N-j1eduZ6o2ny?itemIdentifier=17406_77047_0_

These are 3 year warranty also vs. the lifetime stated earlier

found this while doing my axle nut today

FWD, RWD & 4 W/D front axle nut torque specifications
Front proc. Rear proc.
Make or torque or torque
year Model ft-lbs/Nm ft-lbs/Nm
Front proc. Rear proc.
Make or torque or torque
year Model ft-lbs/Nm ft-lbs/Nm[size=9]
BUICK[/size]
2007-05 Allure ......................................118/160 —
2005-98 Century ..................................159/216 —
1997 Century ..................................151/205 —
1996 Century ..................................107/145 —
1995-92 Century ............................. 103/140[4] —
1991-83 Century ..................................185/260 —
1982 Century ..................................225/290 —
1981-80 Century ..........................................GMA —
1990-85 Electra ....................................185/260 —
1984-80 Electra ............................................GMA —
1990-80 Estate Wagon ................................GMA —
2007-05 LaCrosse ................................118/160 —
2005-98 LeSabre .................................118/160 —
1997-92 LeSabre .................................107/145 —
1991-86 LeSabre .................................185/260 —
1985-80 LeSabre .........................................GMA —
2007-06 Lucerne ..................................118/160 —
2005-98 Park Avenue ..........................118/160 —
1997-92 Park Avenue ..........................107/145 —
1991 Park Avenue ..........................185/260 —
2007-04 Rainer ....................................103/140 —
1991-88 Reatta ....................................180/244 —
2004-98 Regal ......................................159/215 —
1997-95 Regal ......................................151/205 —
1994-88 Regal ......................................184/250 —
1987-80 Regal ..............................................GMA —
2007 Rendezvous ...........................192/260 —
2006-02 Rendezvous ...........................192/260 192/260
1999 Riviera ....................................118/160 —
1998-95 Riviera ....................................107/145 —
1993-86 Riviera ....................................183/248 —

ok, my wheel bearings are going, should i just replace those or the whole hub?

Bearings are not serviceable on our cars. Must replace the entire hub assembly.

awesome thank you, rockauto.com here i come

wow anyone know about they raybestos hub assemblies?

highwaywarrior wrote:

wow anyone know about they raybestos hub assemblies?

All I know is I've only had good performance from the GM OE and the Timken assemblies, and that means genuine Timken from a vendor like RockAuto or a local jobber -- not a bearing having the timken number that you get off eBay -- tried that, Major Fail.

i got the timken from rock auto also my freind that only works on grand prix's told me they hold up the best so far so good!

Timken = 130k miles of reliable service on our front end. Still have original GM hubs in back at 250k miles!

+1 Timken. I wasted money twice doing another brand than Timken. Never again. Timken hands down.

I want to thank all the contributors to this thread. I've been pondering the growling noise for a few weeks now. But after reading this entier thread, I feel confident in troubleshooting my '99 Riv's audible feedback. And if necessary, replacing the bearings.

BTW, the mileage just turned over 201k and the bearings are still original! Guess I'm due.

Next on the line is replacing the drivers side blend actuator, and the heat / AC control unit.

Fun, Fun, Fun!

Thank you all again.

I bought a timken hub and will be using it to replace a bad hub today. I don't quite under stand this step though.
4) stick screwdriver in rotor and let it sit against caliper bolt to hold rotor while you undo axle nut (1-3/8" or some metric size)

I understand it is so that you can remove the axle nut without turning the axle, but where exactly do i put the screwdriver?

Not sure about the screwdriver, but I always just loosen the axle nut with the car on the ground, then pick it up and remove tires, etc.... makes the whole thing moot.

The screw driver method works, and so does breaking it loose on the ground. Another way is to use an impact gun. Usually it will break free easily unless it's the first time you've taken off the nut. Soak with PB Blaster for an hour to make things easier.

RidzRiv wrote:

I bought a timken hub and will be using it to replace a bad hub today. I don't quite under stand this step though.
4) stick screwdriver in rotor and let it sit against caliper bolt to hold rotor while you undo axle nut (1-3/8" or some metric size)

I understand it is so that you can remove the axle nut without turning the axle, but where exactly do i put the screwdriver?

You place it against/through two of the wheel studs, and rest it against the caliper so that the rotor can't turn

So i used the impact gun method today. The sad thing is the noise is still there. I'm stumped. There is no leaking cv boot, no rocks in rotors, and the brakes are all new. The noise correlates to the speed of the vehicle, not the engine. The only other thing that rotates is at vehicle speed would be the transmission right?

Is it possible that you have a bad tire? Try rotating the tires and see if the sound changes. Also, a cv joint could be bad without the boot being ripped. If rotating tires doesn't work, try running car in drive with front wheels off the ground (traction control off) and see if you can pinpoint the vibration. If you have access to a lift, that would be ideal. If using jack stands, please use extreme caution! Also make sure you dont have a brake backing plate rubbing on a rotor or a brake pad problem.
Good luck to ya!

Just did mine tonight, however doing it in low light was a bad idea. I ended up pinching the ABS wires while tightening down the hub and of course cut them clean through So I ended up soldering them back together.  On the bright side, I got super lucky and all that was required to remove the axle from the hub was a gentle push with my thumb on the axle and it was sliding freely in the hub. The axle nut was the same story, just a little tug with the breaker bar and it was loose. Some things that need to be noted: My Rivi is a 96' and one thing I noticed was the lack of a caliper bracket, the caliper bolts directly to the main assembly with the two 7/8 allen key pins that the caliper rides on, no 15mm bolts to be found. Also like mentioned before the hub bolts were a Torx 55 which faced out and were accessible through the holes in the hub, better design if you ask me. It was my passenger bearing that went out at only 111,000 miles. I'll be replacing the driver side shortly since it is a fairly easy job.

Oh just wanted to add a tip, Not sure if there is a reason no one else did it this way but I broke the axle nut loose before jacking up the car, saved me from having to lock the rotor into place.