Ive been searching rivperformance for half hour now and Im doin something wrong cuz I can't find if this is the hub I need http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=837&catid=138 Help me out. I wanna get the right one. Thanks, curious
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
Not 100% sure, no. my trac and abs lights r on. ill b replacing the struts real soon and i figure i'd go ahead and do that too while im already there. the shop fee is 80$/hr, 1 hr min. for diagnostics. i dont wanna pay that if i dont have too. w my miles i thought it a safe bet t go ahead and change them. Any thoughts how i should go about this???
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
If they're original after 225k miles, might be a good idea. But the hubs are pricey at about $125 apiece. If you want to do the install yourself, no need to pay $80/hr. It's a medium level DIY repair.
'70 Ninety-Eight Holiday Coupe 455cid • 116k miles ^^^ SOLD ^^^
curious riv Addict
Name : Chris Age : 44 Location : C'view FL Joined : 2008-10-20Post Count : 521 Merit : 3
Subject: Re: Write-Up: Spindle / Wheel Bearing / Hub Replacement Sat Jan 31, 2009 3:00 am
no, i meant 80$ for a diagnostic t tell me why my trac and abs light r on. they probably charge more than that for changin them out. im certainly capable of doin it in the front yard. thanks for the help, man!!! appreciated!
turtleman Expert
Name : Codith Age : 37 Location : Villa Park, IL Joined : 2007-02-08Post Count : 3671 Merit : 140
Subject: Re: Write-Up: Spindle / Wheel Bearing / Hub Replacement Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:18 am
I'll probably have some information to report in this area soon.
My ABS/TCS pump will cut on and off while the car is just sitting idling and on occasion while moving. After this occurs several times during a run cycle, the ABS/TCS is deactivated by the computer. Other than that, the ABS/TCS seem to work fine. (The only thing I can think of is a shorting somewhere or a wheel speed sensor failure) Additionally, there is extra cabin noise coming from the wheel(s) that sounds like a possible product of a failing hub bearing. The noise is a constant sound that is similar to the noise that you hear from the road to the tires but significantly louder and if I'm next to a wall or something that can reflect the sound more, I can hear kind of like a ticking sound that correlates to my speed and steering. Interestingly, there is no vibration problem to speak of. It still rides smoothly.
Side note, I'd been having a rather annoying issue of my brakes making some noise ever since I put them on and I'm hoping it is, in fact the hub(s)
I have two new hub assemblies for it and I hope to get them on by this weekend. I have a trip this weekend so I need to get it figured out by then or it's going to be an interesting trip.
curious riv Addict
Name : Chris Age : 44 Location : C'view FL Joined : 2008-10-20Post Count : 521 Merit : 3
Subject: Re: Write-Up: Spindle / Wheel Bearing / Hub Replacement Sat Jan 31, 2009 5:56 pm
thanks for sharin... i was gunna ask if u checked the wss connectors, but that wont explain the noise. Good luck w the work!!!
turtleman Expert
Name : Codith Age : 37 Location : Villa Park, IL Joined : 2007-02-08Post Count : 3671 Merit : 140
Subject: Re: Write-Up: Spindle / Wheel Bearing / Hub Replacement Sun Feb 01, 2009 2:13 pm
The front driver wheel bearing was definitely bad. WIth how much it was moving, I'm surprised it wasn't more noticable. This wheel was moving out of control once I jacked it up off the ground. The rotor was obviously wobbling all over too while the caliper which is fixed to the spindle was solid. That would reasonably explain my brake related noise.
Replacing that hub is not a terribly difficult job. Just have some PB blaster handy to help the hub assembly come out of the spindle and situate the car so you can steer the wheel all the way either direction. You need to do that in order to get to all three bolts that fix the hub to the spindle. The CV shaft is in the way otherwise. The axle nut is 34mm IIRC.
General side note for hub assemblies: When buying a replacement, get something that's good quality - don't go for the cheapy unless you are getting rid of the car. The OEM is always a safe bet but for aftermarket, get something that made in the US. The one I used is manufactured by SKF in the US and from what I understand SKF sources to Timkin for its bearings (on the US manufactured units, not the imported ones)
New lesson for the day. Don't wait for vibration to replace bearings on this car because apparently the wheel will fall off before any vibration occurs.
I do have one concern though - My ABS pump still cuts on and off for no reason as it did before... I Checked the passenger wheel and its tight so I guess there may be some more investigation. I haven't looked at the rear wheels...
97rivsc Fanatic
Name : mike Age : 35 Location : appleton wisconsin Joined : 2008-09-28Post Count : 437 Merit : 0
ok I have the same problem with the road noise coming from the hub, and after my alignment today, the mechanic told me that my bearings are starting to go. the thing is that this noise has been going on since I bought the car and I just figured thats how it was oops.....anyway, can someone post pix of what you have to do to replace this? it would be greatly appreciated.
sqrivi Fanatic
Name : scott Location : madison, al Joined : 2008-03-15Post Count : 375 Merit : 52
Subject: Help hub size? Wed Mar 04, 2009 1:16 pm
I am buying some wheels for the rivi that come with hubcentric rings. I just need the hub size to get the correct rings. Anyone know what the measurement is for a 97' ?
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
Subject: Re: Write-Up: Spindle / Wheel Bearing / Hub Replacement Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:58 pm
Does anyone have the torque specs for those 3 bolts holding the hub on the the knuckle? My shop manual is MIA and I'm trying to put it back on. Thx.
I'll be doing this either tomorrow, or the day after.......can someone give me a list of tools that I will need? I know I need a torque wrench over 100 lbs, and a 33mm deep socket. what else do I need? and also how did you guys get the hub out from the axle?
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
You need a sharp chisel to separate the bearing from the steering bracket. Pound at the 3 points where the 3 mounting bolts go. Then you need a nice long pry bar to pull out the back of the bearing cover that will stay in the bracket. A 5 inch 2 prong puller is useful for pulling the bearing from the drive shaft. I used a 36mm socket I borrowed but it was awfully loose. A mechanic at Pep Boys said GM uses 34mm or 36 mm. I found you can not buy a deep enough socket anywhere so buy one on the internet for about $12. The ones in the stores are not deep enough.
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
Thx for the info, Riviera96. I didn't have any trouble separating the hub from the knuckle, but I've heard about that on some other cars. The correct socket size is 33 mm, but I use a 34mm just fine. They make a special type of deep well socket for axle nuts. Looks like this:
I figure if you're going to get a 33 mm socket, might as well get this type. You probably won't use it for much else.
15) Rotor and Caliper Bracket (15mm, 147 ft lbs) This torque value seems high to me. I used 50 lb-ft for the caliper bolts.
I just had to change out a wheel stud and the gm manual says to torque the bolts for the caliper bracket to 137 ft lbs. I don't know if it would be different because of the f body brakes.