EGR Valve Troubles

SO THE THINGS I HAVE WRONG...ARE NOT WHY MY CAR IS ACTING UPP??
?

dboydakid wrote:

SO THE THINGS I HAVE WRONG...ARE NOT WHY MY CAR IS ACTING UPP??
?

Sorry. I meant unrelated to each other. The P0300 misfire is probably directly related to the car acting up. The other stiff may be. If the EGR is stuck open, I could see that causing an erratic misfire. From a diagnostics standpoint, the first thing you want to fix would be the throttle position signal issue. It's hard to be of help without being there with you. lol

OK.... in my previous post I didn't want to mention the TPS because your problem was most commonly at idle, but Yeh... here is how you can test the TPS: LINK.

rk0ehn wrote:

tested the TPS which was responding pretty well, the dark blue wire is the one that sends the TP (throttle plate) position to the PCM; with the Ignition key in the "ON" position and the TP fully closed it read on my DVM (digital voltmeter) .51V and while I gradually opened the TP the volts were increasing as well, up to 4.07V with the TP fully open and I even tapped on the TPS to see if the volts reading changes, but nothing, it was a steady reading

Here is some reading and tips about P0300 LINK. and it could be caused by the TPS problem, or with the IGN and FUEL which are more common, but as turtleman said, try to check the TPS first and if you got luck that could be the problem

lol yea i know..yall are too far..need to move closer lol...but ok hopefully depending on the prices of all the problems i can get em all fixed tomorrow...but if not i will just focus on the tps .....what should be after that??? i wanna get them fixed at the same time..but if not atleast in order of most problematic..

and to rk0ehn..... all that looked like egyptian to me lol...im slowly becoming hipp to all this car talk..but thanks

After that, check the Ignition System; this is the Spark Plug wires, Coil Packs and IGN (Ignition Control Module) all can be tested on the links I gave you.

BUT I think that the reason why you got that P0300 code could be because you had that spark plug wire boot loose and after you reconnected it you got the code registered. The P1406 could be historical... after the test have your codes cleared/erased.

GOOD LUCK!!

ok thanks

Noah, I know EXACTLY what your going through. Mine has been doing that since March.

It used to be that I had to worry only about starting my "new" Riv, then I took care of the brakes. And low and behold this issue comes up.

I did a ton of research online and had my local mechanic check my codes. I got MAF sensor low, TPS high & low. Online said TPS problem and MAF sensor issues go hand in hand. I decided to change the cheaper of the parts first.

I replaced the TPS sensor ($65) and it ran a bit better. The rough rumbling subsided a bit but was still noticeable. Mind you acceration issues were also going on. On the highway climbing a high I kept bucking. I had to drive like an old man.

I bought MAF sensor cleaner for like $7, it remedied the problem but only for a few trips, the issues came back.

I finally broke down and bought a new MAF sensor, I also had a coupon for $20 off of a $100 or more purchase, that really does help. Check coupons in the mail, ValPack. As soon as I installed the MAF in the parking lot it was immediately cured. The tach stayed at 1 and it was smooth, felt brand new.

This lasted an entire week and then the engine light came back on. I have yet to feel the loss of power that it used to lack but I do have a sense of rumbling when I'm at a stop light for longer than a minute.

I had the new code checked and it came back EGR valve. The mechanic told me the EGR pipe fitting into the engine was leaking around the edges. And the pipe was setting off the EGR valve code; fix the pipe, fix the problem. My new pipe is on its way.

I hope this helps. I've spent soo much money on my Riv trying to do repairs we think were the issue. If I can save others the hassle I went through, it will be worth the agrivation. And I have gotten a lot of help finding affordable from members here.

aye thanx alot man..keep me updated on the egr problem
.i wanted to change my egr and maf anyway..just not yet..but hopefully the shop can diagnose my problem so i can just get this out the way and go back to driving a healthy car
and you too...

Keep in mind it's not the EGR itself, but the EGR PIPE/TUBE he is talking about above. The tube seems to made from unobtanium and must be sourced used or fabricated. Replacing the EGR and MAF are not necessary unless they are not working. Don't throw money at unneeded parts.

Ok thanks.and idk if this may be a reason for my.problems..but a co worker said it may be the alternator?

It could be, but unlikely. Check the battery voltage with the engine off, then with the engine running. Then with the engine running and lights on, blower on high, rear defog and heated seats on. (load test)

Ok..

If it's a MAF issue, get a used one (preferably from Morad). On supercharged cars, unplug it and run off the MAP sensor while you wait to get a MAF. The car won't run perfect but it will be better than with the MAF plugged in.

The EGR is worthless. My preference is to get rid of the ugly thing and just block off that port at the manifold. lol

TPS could give you issues. I had a 99' GA with the 3400 that had crazy idling issues and was starved for power. Changing out TPS fixed it entirely. If I pumped the gas before starting the car, that would fix the TPS for a short time by helping reset it.

How new are the spark plugs and wires? A misfire could give you some issues.. usually not that drastic though.

TPS makes a big difference and if youre in a pinch you can clean the MAF with special cleaner. Be very careful and be sure to let it dry completely. I believe there's a thread for it on here.

Shop said egr valve is stuck.open...cost is 262 smh.. They claim.that is the reason for my problem...seems like that price is crazy..but I dnt have any other other options

Ugh... Hate the EGR. One of the ugliest looking things under the hood. lol

I should have just deleted it huh??? Lol I dont even know how it looks ..smh..

Yea I just looked under the hood before I sae that post..n it was the newest looking.thing so I figured that was it..lol..car is running good again..thankfully 250 dollars later
Thanks for everybodys help

GOT A QUESTION..
at idle where are your rpm's supposed to be??? if im in drive with foot on brake they sit 2 notches under 1..is that bad???

dboydakid wrote:

GOT A QUESTION..
at idle where are your rpm's supposed to be??? if im in drive with foot on brake they sit 2 notches under 1..is that bad???

no. What is bad is if the rpm's "flutter" at idle, usually means the TB has to be pulled and then it and the intake cleaned with TB cleaner.

Oh ok..just making sure..mine stays n.one spot just.not at the bottom..its rite.below one...

Does anyone have a picture of the EGR valve? Can anyone help me identify it? I want to unplug it and clear my p1404 code and see if the SES comes back on. Thanks!

Thank you! I will clear the code after work today and see if it was just a false alarm. Thanks for the fast response!