EGR Valve Troubles

That's interesting. I was hoping to find a pic online to show people where my problem was. Oddly enough, my EGR is located up front kinda where you see the black latch in this newer engine pic above.

I still would like to put a lot of miles on it before I say goodbye. I may have to pull a Top Gear and donate my Riv in Louisiana.

Finally some good news!


Today while out doing errands I stopped in at the local Advance for a price quote on a new EGR valve. Suprisingly it was less expensive than that awesome website for GM parts that was introduced to me from a member here.

Original Price from factory: $289.14
shopgmparts.com: $166.24

Advance Auto: $136.49

and the magic, for a limited time until March 10 they have a promotion for $15% off parts.

I ended up paying $116.xx
so from $289.xx to $116.xx is kinda a big deal for me given the unemployment is all gone and still no job. Every savings opportunity counts.


It's defintely not a factory part but appears to be the same size/shape, has a lifetime warranty, and I can pick it up from the store tomorrow.

My car is by no means a collector car so any part that can at least get it to functioning condition is A-OK in my book.


This post is to help those who may have been in a similar situation as me waiting for some sort of a price brake on an expensive part.

The awesome GM parts website is only if you need a GM part. That's only for certain things, for most parts I would turn to the aftermarket. But stay away from the cheapest parts (Valuecraft from Autozone, for example) if you can. I like Advance.

(If you want to try to get my commercial Advance discount send me a PM)

No, it's not Valuecraft. I should be OK.

I may take you up on that discount offer too if it's not a hassle.

Right before I went on vacation for the week my girlfriend's dad helped me install the new EGR valve.

And it made all the difference. Power is back and runs smooth at idle.

but the light is still on.


At highway speeds, when cruise control is set, it does feel unusual; not instantaneously notceable but "slippy".

also I noticed the techometer seemed 'stuck' at points and would not change when I gave it a bit of gas and let off the gas. This was only on the highway and when I got off and braked it went down.


So for now it's good'nuff.

What happened to this project dude? I'm pondering gettin a new EGR

Andysdorm wrote:

Right before I went on vacation for the week my girlfriend's dad helped me install the new EGR valve.

And it made all the difference. Power is back and runs smooth at idle.

but the light is still on.


At highway speeds, when cruise control is set, it does feel unusual; not instantaneously notceable but "slippy".

also I noticed the techometer seemed 'stuck' at points and would not change when I gave it a bit of gas and let off the gas. This was only on the highway and when I got off and braked it went down.


So for now it's good'nuff.

You either have to reset the light or wait some 25+ drive cycles before it will turn itself off.

Better yet get a scanner and read what the code actually is - might be a new one.

How does one go about cleaning an EGR valve?

Thanks

I've had mine off when it was throwing a code, and tried to clean it out, but it never really made a difference. And it was hard to see what to clean without damaging its solonoid. The only true fix was to buy another one. (400$ are in Canada, 120$ shipped if you use rock auto. guess which one i did.)

Halfway through my drive home from work and my SES light appeared. I've got P1404. P1404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Valve 2.

Any ideas what it could be? Looks like some EGR BS. I'm gonna start researching now.\
Found this:
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=6857

Probably stuck open. If you take off the EGR, you'll see what's clogging it. Or, keep driving and it could go away on it's own.

Yep, you got it AA. I scanned it when I went out this evening. getting 0.8V at idle and then I saw it go up to like 4-5V under acceleration. Parked, turned it off, turned it back on and the SES light was gone!!!

nvsteve wrote:

How does one go about cleaning an EGR valve?

Thanks

there are EGR valve cleaning fluids available from autoparts stores.

...also by the way the problem usually is carbon buildup that has condensed and clogged passages in the intake manifold. As hot as the EGR runs it's not *that* susceptible to blocking although it does snot up from time to time.

Either need to remove the intake manifold and dip/clean it or use spray cleaners and pipe cleaners/wire brushes/coat hangers to scrape out the carbon buildup. Kind of reminds me, for some reason, of a dentist removing plaque from teeth.

Hey guys,

I'm trying to trouble shoot this right now. Andrew and Noah, if you or anyone else could chime in that would be awesome. I had not run my riv in a week and when I started it up it hick-uped and felt like it was going to stall. It has done this in the past but with a little gas I was able to get up and going (clue?). However, for the past week I've been driving around with it doing this and it won't resolve. I have little power and the engine sputters but won't stall. It will drive, the engine just feels like it's getting choked (hesitates, won't go when I give it gas, etc). I got it checked out at the shop and they said it threw an EGR valve stuck open code (OBDI code 41). I declined the $500 service and began trouble shooting the EGR valve based on internet research.

Removing the valve I can depress in the pintle up and down with no problem. Does that mean it's not faulty? I'm going to check the continuity across the pins and wiggle the harness to see if it's electrical. I've replaced the warn gasket, it did nothing.

Other than that, I was thinking of doing the old soapy water trick on the pipes to see if there is a leak on any of them.

My question to Andrew and Noah and anyone else with experience is, did you guys have similar symptoms? If so did you try cleaning and trouble shooting the EGR valve before replacing? Did replacing solve your problem? Just wanted to know before I dropped the cash on the new valve as I am not sure the valve is faulty or if it's something else. Let me know. Going to trouble shoot now.

Drew

If you can physically move the pintle up/down, the EGR valve is broken. The PCM commands that valve open and closed in steps based on throttle position. It's physically connected to "motor" inside of it.

^really broken? That is interesting. I recall a buddies car throwing an egr code once and he depressed the pintle and cleaned the heck out of the thing. Just felt like a retention spring underneath. Got it cleaned so it would slide smooth rather than sticking, put it back on and car ran fine and never threw the code again   

I wouldnt think a broken EGR would cause that kind of a driveability issue, but im no expert since ive had mine off for years now. Sounds more like a ignition problem to me.

For what its worth though, i have a EGR at home in very good condition if you end up in need of one.

Matt

EGR can and will cause those problems as that is exactly what was going on with my friends sl4 when it happened. Just for reassurance.

Thanks for the comments guys. I did the soapy water test on the piping to the EGR valve. No leaks. The mechanic said that it was "stuck open". I'm just trying to make sure I shouldn't look at anything else before buying a new valve since I haven't determined whether it is broken or not. Scott said it was if I can move the pintle. I've seen online that it can be cleaned and re installed by moving the pintle so I'm doing a little internet research now. Any other suggestions on determining if the valve is broken? I feel like there are mixed opinions on the pintle being able to be moved or not.

P.S Thank Matt, will let you know.

llamalor2112 wrote:

^really broken? That is interesting. I recall a buddies car throwing an egr code once and he depressed the pintle and cleaned the heck out of the thing. Just felt like a retention spring underneath. Got it cleaned so it would slide smooth rather than sticking, put it back on and car ran fine and never threw the code again   

Maybe it's the new(er) style I'm thinking of. The older ones are electro-magnetic and vary position based on current (Amps).

Either way, you can't test that thing without a scan tool to command the steps to watch it move. It very well may be failed electrically (internally). If the PCM tries to move the pintle, and it gets full current feedback, the circuit is considered open.

Yes, if you completely open an EGR valve, the car will run like testes. It throws off the MAF and fuel tables because of the unwanted incoming air to the engine. If the PCM wants the EGR closed, and it's not, the engine will act like it has a vacuum leak.

Just got the AZ EGR valve. Installed it. Still the same issue. Thoughts?

werdstrave wrote:

Just got the AZ EGR valve. Installed it. Still the same issue. Thoughts?

Did you clear the code after the install?

Ummm...someone might want to verify this for me, but isn't code 41 a Cam Sensor Code?

I don't have a code scanner and posted on another thread to see if anyone had the list for obd1 95 riviera. Please post here if anyone has info on this.

Alright. Reset the computer by disconnecting the battery with the new EGR valve on. Hooked the battery back up and turned on the engine and still the same problem. I guess I can rule out the EGR valve as being the problem which is bogus because the shop just ran away with my $100 diag fee and told me that's what needed to be replaced. "Code 41 EGR Malfunction"..... apparently that's what it is?

Anyways, I can smell a slight hint of exhaust in the engine bay. Not sure if that's a hint at something but can't quite tell where it's coming from. Could a hole somewhere in the manifold throw an EGR malfunction code? If they are telling me the truth and that's what it is?