EGR Valve Troubles

L67 wrote:

Does anyone happen to know if an EGR valve from a 2006 L26 would work on my car?

2006 EGR
Pin A - GY EGR Low Cntrl
Pin B - GY Low Ref
Pin C - BN EGR Pintle Position
Pin D - GY 5v Ref
Pin E - RD EGR High Cntrl

1996 EGR
Pin A - GY Solenoid Cntrl
Pin B - BK Engine Data Sensor Ground (connected to MANY other sensors)
Pin C - BN EGR Position In
Pin D - GY 5v Ref
Pin E - PNK Ign Power

According to the schematics, NO, a 2006 EGR won't work. It appears the logic is a bit different.

Abaddon wrote:

L67 wrote:

Does anyone happen to know if an EGR valve from a 2006 L26 would work on my car?

2006 EGR
Pin A - GY EGR Low Cntrl
Pin B - GY Low Ref
Pin C - BN EGR Pintle Position
Pin D - GY 5v Ref
Pin E - RD EGR High Cntrl

1996 EGR
Pin A - GY Solenoid Cntrl
Pin B - BK Engine Data Sensor Ground (connected to MANY other sensors)
Pin C - BN EGR Position In
Pin D - GY 5v Ref
Pin E - PNK Ign Power

According to the schematics, NO, a 2006 EGR won't work. It appears the logic is a bit different.

Ok thanks, have you located any parts? (I know you're probably busy today with all of your POS repair jobs ) Otherwise, do you know a range of years/platforms that are compatible? Thanks

Apparently they changed something in 2002. All 3800 EGR valves '96-2001 are the same P/N (12578034, Delco # 214-5067). So, there is your answer sir .

2002 is when the wire color and "logic" appears to change. They made another change in 2005 (Series III).

Abaddon wrote:

Apparently they changed something in 2002. All 3800 EGR valves '96-2001 are the same P/N (12578034, Delco # 214-5067). So, there is your answer sir .

2002 is when the wire color and "logic" appears to change. They made another change in 2005 (Series III).

Thank you young man, I will continue my pursuit for a replacement!

i think i have mine sitting around somewhere if you need a working EGR.
cover shipping and its yours.

Mr.Riviera wrote:

i think i have mine sitting around somewhere if you need a working EGR.
cover shipping and its yours.

Ok, Travis is sending a replacement unit out to me tomorrow but if his for some reason does not work can I still take you up on the offer in a week or so? Thanks!

A week ago I went to Meineke for an oil change. I would have done it myself but there was a coupon for the service that was cheaper than buying the parts. While there I saw they did free engine code readings. A few days later, I went in to get my Riv checked.

It starts to look bad when I'm bringing my Riv to my local mechanic for the free readings and doing the work myself so I decided to go to Meineke this time.

Of course the car came back with codes, 3 were already in there and need to be cleared, 1 was new.

EGR valve

Now far be it for me not to jump on the bandwagon of immediately hating franchise mechanics like Midas, Jiffy Lube, and Meineke...and throw in Maaco for good measure but my experience there was sooo much better than my local mechanic.

The guy who read my car was dirty, smoking in the garage bay and looked unkept so I know he was the kind of man who knew what he was talking about. He walked me to my car with the hood opened and talked to me one on one what is throwing off the code.

He pointed to the EGR valve and said it was giving the code but then used a meter against the connection of the throttle to the EGR tube and it was leaking. He mentioned that it would need to be replaced and may be the cause of setting off the EGR code. This was amazing to me since my mechanic in town would have said something vague like, "it could take 3hrs, could take 3 days to figure out".

I am planning to do most of the work on my cars myself since I've had so many problems it has become a learning opportunity to aquaint myself to the location of parts in the engine. The EGR and EGR tube are right up front and seem to be attached by bolts that are easy to get to.

My issue is trying to price and locate an EGR tube. The closest search resulted in a Buick Century tube that looks the part but I want to make sure it will fit. I was recommended not to find a junkyard EGR tube. Can anyone direct me to a few sources?

That tube is known for developing leaks. Unfortunately you can't source a new one that is right. Your only hope is a junkyard or trying to fill the crack with JB weld.

Changing both the tube and EGR takes like 5 min.

Update:

Not much to be said. Still rolling around with the leak. I've taken the Riv on some long trips recently and it hasn't set off the code. It always shows up spiratically, so it does need to be fixed.

Last night I consulted my bro-inlaw mechanic and he agreed OEM Buick from the factory parts for this is the best.

I contacted Buick today. EGR valve $283.74, the EGR pipe of which it leaking and setting off the code is discontinued.

I contact the local junk yard and they say they haven't gotten a Riv in for quite awhile; good to hear people are keeping them and restoring them but I don't have a deceased carcass to pick stuff off of.

Where the pipe/hose fits into the engine body has leaks around the circumfrence of the pipe, the pipe itself does not show signs of wear or cracks.

Is there a fix I can perform myself to 'seal' this leak but as not to totally prevent me from replacing the part in the future. My GF's dad suggested heat resistant tape used for furnaces(not duct tape). He thought it was the pipe itself and a wrap would fix it but was dumbfounded when I mentioned it was comming from the end of it where it connects. He and I are planning to create a gasket for a tight seal but could use some insight before we start. If there is no gasket to begin with, would the addition of one be an issue? Would common rubber material for gaskets be ok with the heat of the engine in this area?

As I mentioned before, some people have some success with JB welding the cracks(though I have heard this is just as prone to eventually cracking), Others will use a whole lot of RTV, though it usually just blows out. Common rubber will melt for sure, as its full temp exhaust gasses going through.

I've often wondered about what could be done to just replace the pipe. Not sure of options though for the heat it needs to withstand, or if the diameter is a specific size.

Is your pricing from a local dealer? Check with monsterpartsonline.com

deekster_caddy wrote:

Is your pricing from a local dealer? Check with monsterpartsonline.com

Yeah, I checked a local dealer. When he told me the pipe was discontinued that kinda stopped me from persuing one by a parts store if the company that created the car doesn't have it.

It gets me wondering if when any car gets too old and/or wasn't popular, will a thing like a discontinued part that may be required to get an inspection sticker mean the end of use for the vehicle; totaled?

The Buick Century was the only Buick-branded car I could find a EGR pipe for. It looks strickingly similar to the one I have(shape/size). The Buick parts guy did say that it would be best to get a Riv-specific pipe but seeing as an online search for ANY EGR pipe resulted in little to no results it got me wondering it the pipe itself should not need to usually be replaced or it's universal as a oil filter would be.

I am going to try to find it on the website you've suggested.

deekster_caddy wrote:

Check with monsterpartsonline.com

Holy Moses, this is a GREAT website. It's got everything and the search isn't too bad. The prices are EXCELLENT!

Have people had good luck with this; reputable company?

I've been using them for years. All GM parts, much less $$.

BTW Andy keep your eyes open for my old Riv - black with silver roof. My brother has it now and works in Worcester.

Andysdorm wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

Is your pricing from a local dealer? Check with monsterpartsonline.com

Yeah, I checked a local dealer. When he told me the pipe was discontinued that kinda stopped me from persuing one by a parts store if the company that created the car doesn't have it.

It gets me wondering if when any car gets too old and/or wasn't popular, will a thing like a discontinued part that may be required to get an inspection sticker mean the end of use for the vehicle; totaled?

The Buick Century was the only Buick-branded car I could find a EGR pipe for. It looks strickingly similar to the one I have(shape/size). The Buick parts guy did say that it would be best to get a Riv-specific pipe but seeing as an online search for ANY EGR pipe resulted in little to no results it got me wondering it the pipe itself should not need to usually be replaced or it's universal as a oil filter would be.

I am going to try to find it on the website you've suggested.

IIRC don't need to replace EGR pipe for "life of the car" which allegedly was 10 yrs/150,000 miles +/- owner maintenance/driving conditions.

I dimly recall that one could use a piece of flexible stainless steel tubing something like is used for natural gas/propane hookups but where I saw those completely has escaped me.

Albertj

I dunno if you wanna try this but i got an egr pipe off a park ave ultra and used quik steel on it so it would fit our motors for some reason our pipe is different from everyone elses with a series 1 sc the diameter is smaller on the side that goes into the sc

deekster_caddy wrote:

BTW Andy keep your eyes open for my old Riv - black with silver roof. My brother has it now and works in Worcester.

Black with Silver similar to the Park Ave Ultra? I will keep my eyes peeled, I had thought of that combo and love it,.

Andysdorm wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

BTW Andy keep your eyes open for my old Riv - black with silver roof. My brother has it now and works in Worcester.

Black with Silver similar to the Park Ave Ultra? I will keep my eyes peeled, I had thought of that combo and love it,.

like this:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t3708p75-deekster_caddy-s-riv-pictures

Today i was driving home from work and car was running normal ..as soon i stopped in traffic the car started to rumble..almost as if somebody was rocking the car front to back....i pulled off and car was running fine again except for when coming out of 1st gear the rpm eased its way up to 3 and kinda stayed there in high rev for a second and then switched......i got home..and let the car sit for a second in park and it still felt like somebody was rocking the car .just not as hard..i cut the engine off and check my wires...one of the wires was not all the way down on the coil so i secured it ..and started the car ..and the service soon light came on..SMH...and car was still acting funny..i cut it off .and tried to cut it on again and it wont start unless i give it a little gas ..and even then in park or at a stand still the lights kinda flicker and the rocking comes back

i dont know what too dooo...can ANYBODY help me???? do you know what may be the problem??? i have work at 630 am ..12 hours from now ..i neeed to be able to get there.. SOMEBODY HELP./.THANK U

Go to an Autozone and get the codes read. Check the fuel pressure with a gauge. Put a voltmeter across the battery and see if the alternator is charging. Should be about 14.5 volts while running. Very hard to diagnose this on the net. You need to get more information to us.

Looks like this problem with rough idle and high rpm is getting more common

You'll have to check for any mayor vacuum leak, if it's big enough by just placing your ear near the engine you should hear a hissing sound or try to listen with a regular vacuum hose, just put one end close to your ear to hear for that hissing sound, or better yet try carb cleaner and start spraying around the vacuum connectors to check if the idle changes, if it does you have a leak.

Does it Idle on very low RPM and it's wanting to stall?? Low RPM could cause the lights to dim because the alternator is not spinning fast enough to meet the current draw demand.

Eventually you will have to make more tests

-Check for fuel pressure
-Check the Spark plug wires one by one
-Clean the MAF sensor
-Clean the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. Could be sticky

Keep us updated and hope you can fix it, I know how frustrating is when you have to go to work and transportation is a hard to get.

Double check and make sure those ignition wires are well secured all the way around too.

thanks ..i went to auto zone and they read my codes.
.i got:
P1406
P0300
P0121

P0300 - engine misfire
P0121 - throttle position sensor cricuit insufficient activity
P1406 - EGR valve pintle position circuit

It's probably too late to ask but do you know if the codes were current/historical?
You have a lot of things I would, at a quick glance, consider unrelated. Could be a wiring or ground issue though?