Front Cornering Lamp Bulb Replacement?

Eldo wrote:

Rickw wrote:

Eldo wrote:

Anyone know of a brighter bulb to replace these 3057's with?

LEDLight.com has a 3157 (p/n 44634) that is a direct replacement for the 3057 with 19 LED's and (p/n 84563) with 27 LED's that are not only brighter but have lower heat generation, shock and vibration proof. They claim virtually unbreakable. (others with 32 and 36 LED's)

They have a large catalog of 12v lights. Check them out.

Thanks for another tip, Rick

has anyone replaced their cornering lights with these? i need to do mines and these look like a good alternative, but i'd like to see how they actually look beforehand if anyone has pics or vids with these.... if not i'll prolly just replaced em with the regular bulbs

I took the l/f cornering lens out to make a ramp for cold air to get into the fender by the airbox. I don't know if it helps improve power, but I can hear the SC whine a lot better.

Hey everyone one of my cornering lamps went out, got it replaced with another 3057 not a big deal. other than that stupid bolt under the housing. Anyways, I noticed when I was testing the light that only one filament would light up same as the other side? so why are these bulbs double filament is there a way to get both of the filaments to light up wouldn't hurt having a little extra brightness to combat the haze !

Without going outside and take a look at it myself, I assume you could get a new socket that supports both filaments and switch it out for the existing socket. You might have to modify the tangs on the socket or housing though as many are keyed differently.

Then you'd just wire the other filament to a hot lead from the headlights.

I did something similar when 'enabling' the cornering lamps on my 95 Roadmaster. Mine is not the "Limited" so it didn't come with the cornering lamps enabled.

ahh I see, well good info thanks ! now to hunt for a socket...

Hi Jake,

Believe it or not, this is classic GM bullshit!  
At a certain point, with 5 lines of automobiles, it actually makes financial sense to 'waste' parts or wires...  Your double-filament socket IS correct.   They simply used the higher-power "brake-light" for the cornering light, instead of a lower-power 1156 or 194...

I will tell you from my own experience that you CAN simply solder across the terminals of the bulb to make both filament light, but it really won't make much discernible difference in light...  Adding the 'tail light' to the 'brake light' doesn't help much.

In my own car, I bought either 1157 or 1156 HALOGEN bulbs for brighter cornering lights.

i wonder if it would be nice to wire the dim filament to the parking lights? Campaign to strike dumb ideas.

ironclyde wrote:

I took the l/f cornering lens out to make a ramp for cold air to get into the fender by the airbox. I don't know if it helps improve power, but I can hear the SC whine a lot better.

I'll just leave these here...

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t1289-write-up-modified-air-box-cai

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t1209-write-up-installing-fwi-filter-heat-shield-air-scoop?highlight=write+-up

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t107-write-up-building-a-custom-pvc-fenderwell-intake#363

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t5480-write-up-4-fwi-spectre-intake-for-northstar-n-throttle-body-lq4-maf

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t5094-write-up-flexible-tube-fenderwell-intake#69372

How does now remove/replace the cornering light assembly? The front tab on my right side somehow broke leaving it floppy. I managed to get it far enough tilted out to apply JB plastic weld but now I cannot maneuver it back into position. Do I have to remove the entire front bumper to get at it (I sure hope not)?

Push down the bumper cover a bit. You'll see one little bolt. After that, it pulls right off. The lens has small spring clips.