Name : Klix Age : 46 Location : Barrhead, Alberta Canada Joined : 2009-11-18Post Count : 807 Merit : 16
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Fri Mar 19, 2010 11:30 am
My Power 500a2 is the last of the old school designs before the change over in late 2000. Its spec sheet rates it @ 720 RMSx1 watts full power @ 2 ohms. Amp was bought new in early 1999 for $1195 CAN. My Soundtream reference was made in the U.S.A. in 1996. it Is the original Reference 700sx, not 700s the 1 with the guts out the Reference 400sx transferred over in 98 to the 700s because they felt it was overbuilt. The Reference is probably in its day possibly 1 of the best 2 channel amps money could buy.
This is what I got from Soundstream in 1996-97 think it was early 97. http://diymobileaudio.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7087
My buddy bought the same RF amp that year and his sheet read 660 RMSx1 full power @ 2 ohms, it interesting to see them vary like that in power on the exact same model, but nice to see that they were each tested.
AA is right on the early 90's as well, I had originally in my very first system 2 12" Crankensteins in a band pass running off that exact amp... the Punch 40i, I bought it used in 1993 w/o the end caps to cover everything up fancy but I was a kid back then so it didn't really matter as long as it was loud. Never did know the rating though all that was worn off when I got it. Thanx for posting its specs. Mines still works to this day to, but only when its bridged, the left positive terminal broke on it. I gave it to my lil cousin to run his little Cerwin Vega 10". Sounds pretty good for 20 year old technology. I really doubt my new stuff will last 20 years and the amps are barely even making an effort running my sytem, grossly overpowerred, but better 2 much then 2 little amps can be adjusted.
As for the Power 500a2 well it and the Punch 160a2 I bought in the same year are both going strong, thats 11 years (Sounstream Ref. 13 years) and counting used everyday even in Canadian winter. Sorry but the Chinese can't compete with that kind of durability.
Mr.Riviera Expert
Name : Matthew Age : 38 Location : Florida Joined : 2007-01-17Post Count : 4394 Merit : 101
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Sun May 02, 2010 8:33 pm
I'm thinking about changing my system. right now i have 2 10" kicker solobarics in a sealed box powered by a memphis 2ch amp. (200.2 maybe?) it hits very clean and has tight full range bass. plenty loud for what i use it for. even at half gain.
I would like something a bit smaller (and lighter) but still have the same sound or a little more. I also want to power the other 4 speakers in my car. (infinity ref in front and alpine type s in back)
I was thinking about going with a L7 10" sub in a sealed box and powering it and the rest of my stuff with a 5 channel amp.
what amp should i go with and is 5 channels even needed? i was thinking something like the polk pa1100.5, but its a little more than i was looking to spend. ($430 at crutchfield)
Matthew
_________________ 1996 with 254k miles, L32 4" FWI -> ported N* -> Ported Gen V w/3.0" Pulley, Stage 3 Phenolic I/C, ZZP FMHE, 1.84 RR, Headers and 3" pipe to mufflers, F-body brakes, and lowered on Eibachs. -RIP AMG C400 White on black. Stage 2 w/E30 - 11.9@117 -daily
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Sun May 02, 2010 9:06 pm
'70 Ninety-Eight Holiday Coupe 455cid • 116k miles ^^^ SOLD ^^^
Hometown Hero Junkie
Name : Klix Age : 46 Location : Barrhead, Alberta Canada Joined : 2009-11-18Post Count : 807 Merit : 16
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Sun May 02, 2010 10:30 pm
Cerwin Vega Stroker
Mr.Riviera Expert
Name : Matthew Age : 38 Location : Florida Joined : 2007-01-17Post Count : 4394 Merit : 101
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Mon May 03, 2010 7:00 am
the 8W7 looks heavy. would i be saving weight in the back by switching to that over the 10" L7?
what size box is needed for that too?
_________________ 1996 with 254k miles, L32 4" FWI -> ported N* -> Ported Gen V w/3.0" Pulley, Stage 3 Phenolic I/C, ZZP FMHE, 1.84 RR, Headers and 3" pipe to mufflers, F-body brakes, and lowered on Eibachs. -RIP AMG C400 White on black. Stage 2 w/E30 - 11.9@117 -daily
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Mon May 03, 2010 9:06 am
It's heavy for an 8", it weighs 17 lb, one lb less than and 10" L7. Its enclosure will be smaller and lighter than an L7, too. You can use many different box volumes depending on the type of sound you want. Generally smaller = louder, larger = better. The largest box for an 8W7 will be smaller than the largest box for a 10L7, for the same sound quality.
If you're going to add weight to our cars, putting it in the rear is best, unless you are only concerned with drag racing.
'70 Ninety-Eight Holiday Coupe 455cid • 116k miles ^^^ SOLD ^^^
97 park ave Addict
Name : Tyler Age : 34 Location : MN Joined : 2009-03-06Post Count : 669 Merit : 21
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Mon May 03, 2010 11:28 am
AA wrote:
Good points. Also, older Fosgate amps (I'm talking Punch DSMs from the early '90s) came with a data printout that showed the actual power output of the amp you purchased. Nowadays I'm not sure if they do that any more, but those were good amps that I still run to this day. They were also very clean sounding, but huge in size for 40 watt amps.
they still do this, i got a printout with both of my p300-1's
Mr.Riviera Expert
Name : Matthew Age : 38 Location : Florida Joined : 2007-01-17Post Count : 4394 Merit : 101
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Mon May 03, 2010 11:33 am
AA wrote:
It's heavy for an 8", it weighs 17 lb, one lb less than and 10" L7. Its enclosure will be smaller and lighter than an L7, too. You can use many different box volumes depending on the type of sound you want. Generally smaller = louder, larger = better. The largest box for an 8W7 will be smaller than the largest box for a 10L7, for the same sound quality.
If you're going to add weight to our cars, putting it in the rear is best, unless you are only concerned with drag racing.
alright. 17lbs is still better than the 100lbs in the back right now. what 5 channel amp will work with the W7?
_________________ 1996 with 254k miles, L32 4" FWI -> ported N* -> Ported Gen V w/3.0" Pulley, Stage 3 Phenolic I/C, ZZP FMHE, 1.84 RR, Headers and 3" pipe to mufflers, F-body brakes, and lowered on Eibachs. -RIP AMG C400 White on black. Stage 2 w/E30 - 11.9@117 -daily
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Mon May 03, 2010 11:48 am
With the box you are probably looking at 50-75 lb. Any amp with 250W-400W on the subwoofer channel will work. The W7s are 3 ohm, so a 2 ohm stable amp is probably needed.
Blew 1 of my Rockford HX2 8" in my Fiero because it was hitting the seat. I think their X-Max was 0.55-0.60 inches. Didin't take long to shred a sub like that. However speaker grills are for fags, so i just moved my seat ahead,LOL.
Mr.Riviera Expert
Name : Matthew Age : 38 Location : Florida Joined : 2007-01-17Post Count : 4394 Merit : 101
the L7 10" is about $70 less than the W7. Is the 8" W7 really worth the extra money? i'm already probably going to spend beyond what i should on an amp so will i be disappointing with the power level of the L7?
also, i remember someone on here saying they had speakers and stuff for sale...what happen to that thread?
as for the amp, are they all about the same? i'm considering either the kicker ZX700.5 or JBL GTO 5355 and both are about $300
_________________ 1996 with 254k miles, L32 4" FWI -> ported N* -> Ported Gen V w/3.0" Pulley, Stage 3 Phenolic I/C, ZZP FMHE, 1.84 RR, Headers and 3" pipe to mufflers, F-body brakes, and lowered on Eibachs. -RIP AMG C400 White on black. Stage 2 w/E30 - 11.9@117 -daily
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
8W7 will basically do the same thing as the 10L7 with a smaller footprint. Think of it as a 2.5L turbo I-4 vs a 3.5L NA V-6. Plus, it's pretty cool to watch that little 8" stand up to so much power and still sound good.
'70 Ninety-Eight Holiday Coupe 455cid • 116k miles ^^^ SOLD ^^^
brmcm15 Member
Name : Brandon Age : 33 Location : Macomb, Michigan Joined : 2008-12-02Post Count : 84 Merit : 0
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Tue May 04, 2010 1:29 am
with w7's ur basically paying for the brand because for $500 i would much rather buy something much cheaper and get the same if not better performance. I just dont like JL audio, i think there wayyyy overpriced but thats my opinion.
if you want to go with a killer 8", i would go with a Sundown SA-8. They just came out a couple months ago and are straight up beast's. 400w rms and could probably take about 750w rms cause they are very well built little fudgers.
but on another note, i just bought a 15" DC audio Level 4 off a guy in grand rapids. should sound good in the back in my riviera. i will post a build log soon but heres a vid of that
_
[url]
nebstewart07 Fanatic
Name : Ben Stewart Age : 34 Location : Schofiel Barracks, HI Joined : 2010-12-12Post Count : 390 Merit : 6
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Tue Feb 22, 2011 4:52 am
According to math 2 of the same size subs will hit harder than one of that same size sub(more air space moving). But keep in mind if you compare one W7 with the correct amp compared to 2 walmart brand subs with a sony xplod amp(whatever crazy wattage they list in big lettering says) lol. Then yah the W7 will sound and prolly hit better.
Now im just taking a stab in the dark, but im guessing since you are 16 years old you want something that will hit loud and hard. Am i correct? Give us a budget of how much you have to spend on the whole system. Do you want to upgrade you speakers as well or do you just want subs, box, and an amp? Will you be paying someone else to do it or will you install it yourself? A wiring kit will run you about 100 bucks or more depending on how big you are going? Are you running the factory stereo or aftermarket head unit because that will make a difference in price for wiring and etc. Let us know. It is alot easier said then done then coming in here and just asking what subs you should get. Price is a big factor!
nebstewart07 Fanatic
Name : Ben Stewart Age : 34 Location : Schofiel Barracks, HI Joined : 2010-12-12Post Count : 390 Merit : 6
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Tue Feb 22, 2011 4:55 am
To answer your question regarding proted vs sealed. it depend on what you are looking to get out of your system. If you want sq which is sound quality then go with sealed. If you want spl which is sound pressure(loundness) then go with ported. It also depends on the subs but most subs will do good in either type of box.
stan Expert
Joined : 2007-07-01Post Count : 2558 Merit : 12
Subject: temp Tue Feb 22, 2011 4:28 pm
...just thinkin`...don't these powerful subs and systems drain the battery ?
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
Yep, they certainly do with the car off. It's like leaving your headlights on. If you do it long enough, the car won't start. If you start the car soon enough, no problem. On the other hand, with even a modestly powerful audio system, you can enjoy the music with car running. Then you're just wasting gas.
yes AA that`s what i thought.So probably such system or any third patry accessories must be connected to the alternator (dynamo) directly and powered only when the car`s running so this way you don't face low battery.
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
You can connect the equipment to the battery and chassis, since those are connected directly to the alternator, too. Another trick is to install special high output batteries, or multiple batteries, which drain much slower than the stock unit. High output alternators can be installed to charge the batteries quickly.
Budget: $500 Yes, I do plan on upgrading all of my speakers, but not in the beginning, I'm starting off with just subwoofers, so all the 500 dollars is going towards that, I'm saving up another stack for the after market head unit and the 6x9's. Depending on the price for installation at the local best buy, I might be able to get someone who can professionally install everything for free, it's a family friend on my cousins side, but if you know a price I'd be interested to know.
Also, going back to the head unit, would it be a big enough difference to get a aftermarket head unit? I'm also worried about the wiring that goes to the steering wheel, like the vol. controls and such, I would still want to be able to use those even with a aftermarket head unit.
Another thing I'd be interested in knowing more about is amplifiers, I know their are different amounts of RMS wattage for each amplifier, and I don't want anything lower then a 1000W, and I would be happy with a 1000W, as long as it has the appropriate RMS for the subwoofers I get, so getting the right amount of power in the amplifier is important.
I'm just looking for the biggest, best quality subwoofers I can get for 500 dollars, and I was wondering if maybe instead of looking so hard for a good pair of 12" subwoofers, would it be better to get top dollar 10" subwoofers? say if I had 2 Championship Series 10" Pioneers, would they be able to hit as hard if not harder then say, a cheap pair of 12" hifonics subwoofers or something?
turtleman Expert
Name : Codith Age : 37 Location : Villa Park, IL Joined : 2007-02-08Post Count : 3671 Merit : 140
Subject: temp Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:24 pm
With that budget, I would say get a decent dual 12" sub & matched enclosure combo and an amp that's big enough for it (similar RMS numbers for the system - need to pay attention to impedance and such). There's not much benefit in having more amp power than the subs need or vice-versa so kinda' figure out what you can afford between the two as a full system. Don't forget about stuff like wiring when your considering costs. A decent amp wiring kit will be at least $50
Personally, I wouldn't get overly picky about using a certain subwoofer or amp manufacturer unless you got someone that seriously knows how to set up good systems at your disposal that can sorta figure out what's going to work well for you, within the budget. Otherwise you might be the guy buying something again because it didn't work well in your system.
nebstewart07 Fanatic
Name : Ben Stewart Age : 34 Location : Schofiel Barracks, HI Joined : 2010-12-12Post Count : 390 Merit : 6
For $500 you cant get much, new anyways especially with 1000 watt amp, a good one that is. You will mainly be looking at about 1000 dollars for a good setup for subs and amp then you could just go get a prefab box but it will not sound as good as a custom box or one from the manufacturer.
For $500 you can prolly go on craigslist and find some kicker l7's or l5's with about a 750 watt maybe a 1000 watt kicker amp. Even 10's sound good for the l7's i have alot of people tell me that my 1 10 inch kicker l7 with a 500 watt amp sounds like 2 12's.
Its not all about amp wattage its is about sound. Now if you want to brag about having a 1000 watt amp go out to walmart and get a "1000 watt sony amp" but I gauruntee you will not be pushing 500 watts with that thing.
and by the way the good amp companies advertise their amps at rms not max output.
Garret Rookie
Name : Garret Joined : 2011-02-08Post Count : 18 Merit : 0
Another thing I'd be interested in knowing more about is amplifiers, I know their are different amounts of RMS wattage for each amplifier, and I don't want anything lower then a 1000W, and I would be happy with a 1000W, as long as it has the appropriate RMS for the subwoofers I get, so getting the right amount of power in the amplifier is important.
I pretty much understand all their is to know about amplifiers when it comes to understanding the amount of wattage for the different types of amp, for each brand; etc etc. I'm actually pretty positive I'm gonna go ahead and look for 10" subwoofers; and you just have to look at the right places to find the right deal, I'll probably get this ordered online and delivered to my house.
AA Administrator
Name : Aaron Age : 47 Location : C-bus, Ohio Joined : 2007-01-13Post Count : 18452 Merit : 252
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Wed Feb 23, 2011 9:33 am
Hey Gerret, I think there's a little more to understand, even if you think you know everything there is about amplifiers. To say that you need 1000W, you have to ask yourself why. Really, why is this figure is so important? If it's just the number, I'd get a cheap-o brand 1000W amp and you can say you have 1000W of power. But If you're more interested in giving a sub or subs what they need to perform well, you can't know 1000W is needed until you pick out the subs. One thing I bet you didn't know is that amps don't really "push" speakers - the speakers "pull" pull power supplied by the amplifier. If you understand that, it becomes obvious that you should choose your amp based on what the sub(s) needs, not the other way around.
There are actually very few subs that can take 100% power from a quality 1000W RMS amp. Take a look at JL Audio's power recommendations:
Notice that the only sub that can even touch 1000W RMS is their largest, most powerful driver, which is priced at $1200 alone - the amp is extra. 1000W even pushes the limits of two less expensive 10"s or 12"s from their line. That kind of limits you to junk brands if you are trying to stay under $500 total. Even used brand name equipment will cost more than that (btw, I'm a big fan of purchasing used equipment - it's a great way to get more for your money!)
Why not try a quality 10" sub or two and 300-500W RMS from an amp that will actually be able to produce it? It will probably cost more than a cheap 1000W flea market amp, but it will perform better, and will be smaller in size, run cooler, etc. Oh, and it will last a lot longer - I still have a couple of 40W Fosgate amps that I bought when I was your age. They cost me $500 just for two amps rated at 80W! In 1995 that was a lot of money, but these amps are still working, and I am very happy I made that decision (my first purchase was a 110W amp by a crap brand called Targa, which I regretted soon after).
'70 Ninety-Eight Holiday Coupe 455cid • 116k miles ^^^ SOLD ^^^
Garret Rookie
Name : Garret Joined : 2011-02-08Post Count : 18 Merit : 0
Subject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps Wed Feb 23, 2011 9:57 am
AA wrote:
Hey Gerret, I think there's a little more to understand, even if you think you know everything there is about amplifiers. To say that you need 1000W, you have to ask yourself why. Really, why is this figure is so important? If it's just the number, I'd get a cheap-o brand 1000W amp and you can say you have 1000W of power. But If you're more interested in giving a sub or subs what they need to perform well, you can't know 1000W is needed until you pick out the subs. One thing I bet you didn't know is that amps don't really "push" speakers - the speakers "pull" pull power supplied by the amplifier. If you understand that, it becomes obvious that you should choose your amp based on what the sub(s) needs, not the other way around.
There are actually very few subs that can take 100% power from a quality 1000W RMS amp. Take a look at JL Audio's power recommendations:
Notice that the only sub that can even touch 1000W RMS is their largest, most powerful driver, which is priced at $1200 alone - the amp is extra. 1000W even pushes the limits of two less expensive 10"s or 12"s from their line. That kind of limits you to junk brands if you are trying to stay under $500 total. Even used brand name equipment will cost more than that (btw, I'm a big fan of purchasing used equipment - it's a great way to get more for your money!)
Why not try a quality 10" sub or two and 300-500W RMS from an amp that will actually be able to produce it? It will probably cost more than a cheap 1000W flea market amp, but it will perform better, and will be smaller in size, run cooler, etc. Oh, and it will last a lot longer - I still have a couple of 40W Fosgate amps that I bought when I was your age. They cost me $500 just for two amps rated at 80W! In 1995 that was a lot of money, but these amps are still working, and I am very happy I made that decision (my first purchase was a 110W amp by a crap brand called Targa, which I regretted soon after).
I said I wouldn't want anything less than a 1000W Amp because I know I wouldn't be able to afford it, I'm sixteen, and I just got my car february 15th, I'm just trying to find the best quality for what I can get right now, of course I don't plan on keeping these forever, once I have a job then I'll be putting much much more money into this car. I've found two 10" Kicker CompVR Duel-Voice-Coil 2-Ohm subwoofers, that I can get both brand new for $310.97, I can buy a absolutely sealed duel 10" box for $49. The RMS is 400W of power, and the peak power is 800W, for the price I'd be looking to pay for my amplifier, I was thinking it would be better to get a 1000W even if it wasn't necessarily a true 1000W amplifier, if you get that.
Like I said, I'm not truly looking for 1000W of RMS, I'd end up blowing the speakers I got if I were too, I want an amplifier that can power 400W of RMS, and has a peak power of 800W, the 10" subwoofers I want are rated at 2-Ohms.
My two cousins who I'm close to just got 2 12" hifonics powered by a wanna-be 1000W Kenwood amplifier, and one of them, got it professionally installed by a close friend on their side of the family, and she said that the guy would do it for me with absolutely no cost, and supposedly he knows what he's doing and can rewire everything back to the steering wheel controls.
At first, I thought about possibly getting just all new 6x9's powered by a 300W amp and have vocals and treble that'd be able to screech, but I love bass, and I don't think your getting the best sound unless you have subwoofers.