Write-Up: 95sc Changing the coupler in an Eaton m62

kbuick95 wrote:

When you put the nose cone back on the sc is there any amount of tourque you  need to use on the bolts to assemble it.

I looked thru my 95 FSM,and could not find any specs on the torque value for the snout.I just reinstal and tighten in a criss cross pattern with locktite blue until nice and tight. careful not to overtorque,alu is fragile.

M62 will need 2 bottles also.

great thing about the series 1 is that you can use 5W30 full syn oil instead of oem stuff.save a bundle too.
As per a specialized Eaton repair facility you should use a 50/50 mix of, Lucas Oil Stabilizer/Mobil-1 full syn 5W30.

I took my 1995 Riv in to have the supercharger coupling replaced. The garage told me that it could not be done without breaking the bolts holding on the "snout" because they were frozen and if they were removed would probably break the aluminum snout as well. They also said that GM recommends replacing the supercharger rather than just the coupling.

I tend to believe this is just a lot of BS. Anyone have any thoughts, or has anyone run into this same issue?

Thanks,

doubt it, they just want money… heat up the engine then replace it, not to hot tho, thats what i would do

Take it somewhere else or do it yourself.

Another example on how to do it.
www3.sympatico.ca/aepa/blowerinstall.html

Tell 'em to kiss yer ass,take yer Riv outa dere n burn da place down.Then find a bud who can help ya.

I dont think I've ever heard of a case of a snout bolt breaking on an Eaton Supercharger. I would try to find a shop or just a friend with someone who has some experience with 3800s. The coupler replacement is a breeze once the Supercharger is off the car. People who have never serviced a SC are hesitant about it because it seems intimidating and dealers servicing is limited to replacement.

Before he mentioned the problem to me, my friend took his GTP to the dealer which diagnosed it as a bad Supercharger and something like an $800 replacement charge. He later determined that his problem was a coupler and would have cost him $30-40 instead.

Your best bet would be to order your coupler and oil and  either try it yourself or have any mechanically inclined friend do it. If you have a write up at your side, there shouldn't be any issues. And I would not worry about the bolts breaking. They are made from aluminum for that reason.

As a person who has done it, I would say it's pretty easy to do. Here is the write up on it for a '95.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t4421-write-up-95sc-changing-the-coupler-in-an-eaton-m62?highlight=coupler

You can do it with the supercharger still in the car. I don't know if the alternator has to come off for a '95, but it does for a '96+. To remove all the old oil buy a brand new squirt bottle and unscrew the nozzle. After that stick the nozzle into the bottle and the stick part into the supercharger and just keep squeezing until nothing more comes out. Watch out for the vacuum line under the snout. I snapped mine while taking the snout off. I would also get one of the ZZP couplers as they're much more rigid and durable than stock. Should take a mechanically inclined person about an hour.

Here is the write up for '96+ with the supercharger still in the car. Should be very similar to a '95.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t6718-write-up-supercharger-coupler-replacement-series-ii?highlight=coupler

designer1962 wrote:

I took my 1995 Riv in to have the supercharger coupling replaced. The garage told me that it could not be done without breaking the bolts holding on the "snout" because they were frozen and if they were removed would probably break the aluminum snout as well.  They also said that GM recommends replacing the supercharger rather than just the coupling.

I tend to believe this is just a lot of BS. Anyone have any thoughts, or has anyone run into this same issue?

It's possible that the bolts are frozen inside the S/C. It wouldn't take much force to break their little heads off. Doubtful, but possible.

As for GM not servicing superchargers, they are absolutely correct. We here at the dealer, WILL NOT service your supercharger for liability reasons. Nowhere in any service manual does it say to open up the supercharger. It is always, and always will be, replace the entire thing as a unit. Chances are, you won't find a shop that will replace that coupler for you.

Now, us 3800 guys and performance guys know better. That coupler is VERY easy to replace. As Matt has showed you, there are DIY write-ups on this site. It can be a little messy and stinky, but I think anyone with a little mechanical experience and a brain can accomplish the task.

Everything everyone here has already said. You'd have to work pretty hard to twist off a bolt head.  At the very least just heat the engine up a bit, break them free, then let it cool and do the change.

*also, if you ever get a place to just replace the SC, 9 out of 10 times it will be a re-manufactured one with the rotor coating stripped off. It will run less boost.

A note though, you have a 95.  It has an extra bolt on the snout that bolts through the alternator bracket.  It is *not* as easy as on the m90 superchargers of 96+.  The two ways are taking the entire blower off as in the write-up for the 95 and then getting the snout off and doing the coupler, or taking the alternator bracket off and then doing a similar way as the vids for 96+ illustrate..   Personally I just go for taking the entire blower off.

I have seen people removing the SC snout who missed a bolt (underneath the snout), or stripped a torx hole and had to drill out one of the heads, but in all of those cases beer and user error were involved. Pay attention and it's really not a big deal.

What's up guys?  I just bought a 95 Riviera and it sounds like I'll need to change the coupler.  

I already bought the Supercharger oil, the Gasket that sits between the SC and LIM, and the coupler.  I understand that I'll need to get some sealant for the SC nose right?

I just want to confirm that removing the entire SC from a 95 is the easier route to replacing the coupler.  Is this correct?    

There were a couple posts that said it's not necessary to remove the entire SC to get to the coupler.  Is this correct as well?

I'll be tackling this project on Friday or Saturday.  I just want to make sure I'm doing it the easier way.

Another thing I wanted to know is; what's the best way to relieve the fuel pressure?  Is it as simple as pulling the fuel pump fuse and trying to start the car?

A also seen somewhere on here that you can port out some of the triangle opening to get a little more power out of the SC.  Is anybody familiar with that mod?  

Any tips and/or advice is welcomed.

Thanks.

Hey man!

To leave the supercharger on and remove the snout, you'd need to remove the alternator bracket which is much more work than just pulling the supercharger. It doesnt take a whole lot to remove just the Supercharger so thats the best bet!

The snout surface is machined, so it technically shouldnt need sealant for the snout, but if there is some pitting, some people have had leaks. I think we put some on mine and havent had and leak 10k miles later!

Theres some other good info on working on the M62 here:
LINK

Hope that helps!

Any tips on relieving the fuel pressure?

When I changed the fuel filter on my Grand Marquis I relieved the pressure by pulling the fuel pump fuse and starting the car.

I just want to do it right because I remember reading somewhere that you can hydralock the car with the fuel that spills when removing the fuel rail.

Not much will spill, the injectors should stay with the rail when you pull it off keeping the system sealed. There is a relief valve at the back of the fuel rail you can poke in with a screwdriver if you want too. If you a re careful you can just tip the whole issue up and out of the way, but don't kink the plastic fuel lines. Or if worried, relieve the pressure using the valve at the back of the fuel rail, and the 95 has quick disconnects further up the line that can be taken off without any special fuel line tools.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I really appreciate it. I'll be tackling this job Saturday morning. I'll take some pics. Should I clean my injectors while they're off? What's a good way to clean them?

bigROC209 wrote:

Thanks for the advice guys.  I really appreciate it.  I'll be tackling this job Saturday morning.  I'll take some pics.  Should I clean my injectors while they're off?  What's a good way to clean them?

The only way to clean them is to spray the nozzles and the body with Brake Kleen or something of that nature. All you can really do is make them pretty again. Unfortunately, there's no way to clean the inside of them without electrically turning them on and off. Once you take them out, they're shut.

bigROC209 wrote:

Thanks for the advice guys.  I really appreciate it.  I'll be tackling this job Saturday morning.  I'll take some pics.  Should I clean my injectors while they're off?  What's a good way to clean them?

You'll want new o-rings for the injectors too at the very least.

My 95 has had the coupler rattle since I got it back on the road last year, pretty mild at idle, but still audible with the hood up. I wasn't sure that was it for a while, until I went to a local Riviera meet and Randall and some others were nice enough to give it a listen and instantly diagnosed it.

And over the last year and 25ish thousand miles, it really hasn't gotten any worse.

I don't know what happened, but since I had my outer (alternator, power steering) belt break a couple weeks back, and then when I replaced both belts, tensioners(not just the pulleys), and idler pulleys.... now the coupler rattle has gone off the deep end.

It still rattles a bit at idle when in neutral, but when put in drive and idling with the brake applied.... it really now sounds like the typical LOUD bag of rocks one can see documented on YouTube. It's loud enough that my wife called out from the front porch when I stopped in front of the house.

Anyway... not sure it was just coincidence with the belt breaking and my work replacing the belts/tensioners, but somehow that coupler has decided to really crank up the noise now.

So I guess that is on my short list   

On my short list as well along with full pulleys, hoses, injectors, top end.

Karma! Or anybody for that matter. With a 180tstat, 4" fwi, new belts, pulleys, etc etc, figure enough to safely run that older 92/93 2.55" pulley without reliability issues on my 95?? If so I might as well hold off on the coupler swap until I can find one. I remember seeing that it should run fine with the stock idlers and tensioners too I believe?

llamalor2112 wrote:

Karma! Or anybody for that matter. With a 180tstat, 4" fwi, new belts, pulleys, etc etc, figure enough to safely run that older 92/93 2.55" pulley without reliability issues on my 95?? If so I might as well hold off on the coupler swap until I can find one. I remember seeing that it should run fine with the stock idlers and tensioners too I believe?

Like the series 2, you need to verify you have no KR stock before dropping pulley size.  I mean, you *can* but its taking a chance.  Being that the 95 is old anyway and only getting older, if its a daily driver you should probably be sure.

If you have a scanner and are knock free, then sure drop a pulley size and rescan.  Things like the 180 stat etc are just "helpers", but can't determine if you can/should drop to get more boost. (2.55 is fine on stock idlers and tensioners. so is the 2.4" )

That said, if the car is a toy and doesn't need to be dependable, then go nuts.  Its a pretty tough engine. I've been running around with the 2.4"(and my fun blower mods) making 12 PSI of boost every summer for going on 5 years now. Though its not my DD.

That's just it. Right now it's my dd but I'm saving towards getting another ride so I can pamper the riv. But that'll be some time yet. I don't own a scanner. All I've seen worth buying for the 95 is that actron cp9145 I think. Mind my asking what you're using?