Write-Up: Changing Engine Oil

Since I may get a set of ramps in the future, I think it would be helpful for guys like me to have a write-up here explaining how to change your oil, what tools you'll need, what filters, how many quarts, etc. I'd like to save $30-40 every so often, and be able to change my spark plugs too!

Anyone care to do one? I don't know the first thing about changing my own oil. Pics and a list of tools would be great!


EDIT: Here's what you need:

-Ramps (mine are 8,000lb capacity just to be safe, what's an extra $10?)
-5 quarts of oil (10W-30)
-Oil filter (AC Delco PF47 is stock, PF52 is better, both fit fine)
-Drain pan (at least 5qt capacity)
-Socket wrench (15mm for the plug bolt)
-Oil filter wrench (to get the old filter off; it's best to install new filter by hand)
-Paper towels, cardboard, wet-naps, and gloves (keep the plug bolt, ground, filter, and hands clean)

let the engine run till its in operation temperature.
Get your car on a straight surfice...or if you lift it up then be sure the car is straight.
open the oil filling cap...and pull out the oil checking stick or how ever its called..
open the nut on the oil pan....cant remember what size it was maybe 16mm
but something under the oil pan in what you will let the old oil in. must be +5liter

carefullly open the nut...and when removing it..dont let it fall.
wait till the oil runs out of the engine.
when your sure there is nothign drippeling anymore then remove the oil filter whit hand..its under the car on right side..turn it against clock to open.
when its removed...replace the new filter. make the rubber sealing moist whit the oil on the filter so it willseal better...and turn the filter clockwise back.
just whit hand.
when thats done...but the oil pan nut back and tighten it. but 5liter oil in the engine through the filling hole....
when all in...check from the oil mesure stick...but the cap back on...and push the checking stick back in...start the engine...let it run for 30sec or so...
stop the engine and check again the oil check stick....it may have showed before starting that there was to much oil...when started the engine the oil cone back to the oil chanels and filled the oil filter.
when it dos stil not show in normal add a bit more oil.

well...this writeup isent 'blonde proof' should maybe need pictures and so on..but was a quick one..

Pull of oil cap, turn car upside down, let run old oil run out. Shake car to make sure you get everything out. Filter old oil through coffee filter or sock and replace back into engine.

ewolfe0050 wrote:

Pull of oil cap, turn car upside down, let run old oil run out. Shake car to make sure you get everything out. Filter old oil through coffee filter or sock and replace back into engine.

well yeh...but isent that the way how Honda guys to it?

And opel guys...well...they never change it...they just keep adding more time to time..

Good info by Snowdog. I few more things:

• Wear a pair of disposable rubber gloves. I have a box of Microflex Diamond with textured grip. Makes working a LOT cleaner and safer.

• The old oil filter may be hard to loosen by hand. As soon as the car is up on the ramps, before you do anything else, try cleaning the filter with a rag, then put two hands on it and turn. Do this while your gloves are clean. Don't take it all the way off yet, just be sure it will loosen. If you can't budge it, you can buy an oil filter wrench at the store (I have one but never use it. Hands work just fine).

• About 4.5 quarts of old oil will come out of the engine. Make sure your drain container has enough room. Overspills are a pain!

• The drain plug is 15 mm, I think it is on most GM cars now. Careful, the oil may be hot.

• Use a PF52 size oil filter (stock PF47 will work, but the PF52 is longer with more filter area and helps to keep oil cooler). The bigger filter size will be easier to remove next time around. Note: old filter will be messy when you turn it all the way off. Move the drain pan underneath to catch the spill!

• If you can, let the old oil drain out for a long time, like an hour or more. I usually find something else to do while it's dripping, like mowing the lawn or eating lunch. Make sure the car is in a safe place if you leave it sitting.

• Before putting the new filter in, fill the filter almost full with fresh oil (try about 1/3 qt). A little bit will spill out when you try to install; that's okay, but if you fill it all the way up you will make a mess when you tilt the filter to install. Make sure to keep the mating end of the filter clean prior to installing.

• Replace the drain screw. Tighten it snug with a wrench; no need to over tighten - it will strip out if you do. All that screw has to do is keep the oil in.

• Pour the remaining 4.5 or so quarts of fresh oil into the valve cover (oil cap hole). Start the car and you should be good to go. Check oil level soon; it should be right on the money.

Thanks for the info! How do you guys dispose of all the oil in the drain pan? And are you sure the PF52 fits on a Series I?

Most auto parts stores will reclaim the old oil. Buy a small funnel and pour the old oil from the drain pan back into the quart bottles and return. They will even drain your pan for you if you want to put that dirty thing in the car.

When they ask if there's anything other than motor oil or transmission oil, say "Nope, just oil".

PF52 should fit, but I'm not sure. So why not find out for the rest of the Series I guys?!!

IBx1 wrote:

Thanks for the info! How do you guys dispose of all the oil in the drain pan? And are you sure the PF52 fits on a Series I?

The thread, diameter, and sealing diameter are the same size. It's all a matter of fitting nicely where the PF47 would normally go.

As an example. I would have ran the PF52 on my '89 Riviera, but I felt that it protruded too far down from the engine/transmission cradle. Not so in my '99.

Cheers.

When I had my '95 with the Series I, I ran the PF52 with no issue. Everything should match up beautifully.

Before you install the new oil filter, write the car's mileage on it with a permanent marker (such as a Sharpie). Or write it on afterwards - use a little Windex on a rag to get the oil off the filter so you have a place to write.

Albertj

Just pull up to the nearest storm drain, drive one wheel up on curb, then drain all the oil away.


















Naaaah. Seriously, oil change? ramps, wrench for drain plug, drain pan, rag to help grab filter... drain all oil, reinstall drain plug and filter, refill. I like albertj's idea about writing the milage with a sharpie on the filter. Lets you know in the future how badly you forgot to change it...

deekster_caddy wrote:

Lets you know in the future how badly you forgot to change it...

thats why you need to use service book
and i have a sticker whit milage and date what comes of the oil can what i use for my car(Teboil Diamond full syntetic 5w 40....was in one car magazine test winner)

I do keep a service notebook in the car. The notebook makes it much easier to figure out what's wrong when something goes wrong.

But if the date and mileage is on the part with a sharpie mark, I don't have to sit going through the book if my car is in for other service and it'd make sense to say do an oil, air filter, belt or other maintenance... and the info is right there.

Albertj

I tie wrap a cable tag with the date/mileage the svc is performed under the hood so I see it each time I open the hood. And of course I also record it in the service manual for each vehicle or piece of equipment that is serviced.

Bert

I moved my service manual to my iPod. Now it tells me when to change the oil.

I have ramps, but no longer use them. They are a very heavy steel contruction, but they never felt particularly stable to me, and even less so while driving up onto them. I now use a GOOD floorjack and am able to reach the plug and filter w/o having to place my body under the car. (I have long arms) If you can't reach the plug w/o getting under the car, make sure you use jackstands in addition to the floorjack.

Interesting, Dave. I used to use jacks & stands, but now use ramps (plastic) for oil changes. My jacks aren't exactly "good", just small hydraulics. Takes two of them to raise the car. The ramps are pretty light, so easier to set them up.

I thought I'd like the ramps when I bought them several years ago. But I invested in a $200+ alum floor jack instead a couple years ago. I only jack the filter side, then place jackstands under both sides as well. And block the wheels of course.

I found I don't need ramps to change oil, just turn the steering wheel right to lock, then crawl under. I can reach the oil plug with a wrench and take the filter off with bare hands.

Ramps *do* make the job easier, though, and usually I use them.

Albertj

As far as the service intervals, that's why I change my oil every 5000 miles. It's easy to remember on the odometer...

I use a lift like this one:

I'd love to put a lift in my garage. I'd spend hours under both my 68 and the Riv, cleaning things up and POR'ing where needed.

i just use my alum floor jack and to jack stands.

and block the wheels also lol

nice lift...but..shame that it as a baar up there. would be better if it would go on ground or under ground.