Write-Up: Changing Engine Oil

1998 Riv wrote:

Power flush for engine oil??? Never heard of it, don't do it. I think your dad is confusing this with either a trans flush or coolant flush, or the top engine clean process that Aaron mentioned.

Motorvac makes a number of flush systems. It does exist, though I'm not sure of any negative effects on a very dirty/sludged engine.

http://www.motorvac.com/products/OilCleanMCF6000.html

Quote :

Since you used to manage a Jiffy Lube, what are your objective opinions on chain places? I mean, I have nothing against them, but I don't want to get jipped/over-charged/have the wrong thing done. My mechanic is swamped as it is so I figured for the oil change, I don't necessarily need him to do it as long as I can get another place that will do it well.

EDIT - Jiffy Lube also has an "engine flush" fluid that they use, and recommend to use every 10k miles. I'm assuming this would be something similar to the Seafoam product?

It is a crap shoot as to whether or not you find one where the people actually care. When I was there (about 13 years ago) we all loved cars and treated them well. I went back to my old shop and was saddened to see the caliber of kids they have there now. That said, you can find a good one, but trust your instincts. Engine flush wasn't available at Jiffy when I was there.

Also, try to find a franchise store. Generally, they tend to hire better, more competent people over the corporate stores. Their pockets aren't as deep and the owners will more often than not treat you better than they treat own cars.

I've gotten oil changed at Sears Automotive for years with no problems.

Between these two threads, I'm hearing a lot of different things.

Deekster recommended that I just change my oil more frequently, and avoid any kind of engine clean-out.

I liked Playa's suggestion of having the oilery do a little ATF/oil while idling and clearing the gunk out that way. I'm assuming based on the other post that Deekster wouldn't recommend this either based on the risk of clogging.

All in all, I'm really not sure there is gunk in my engine. Or if there is, how much. So I don't know how great a risk I'm running if I do or if I don't. The car performs well overall, but of course I'd like to get it better where I can.

Blah. I'm probably making this far more confusing than it has to be. I guess I should just change the oil and do nothing more.

There are a lot of choices one can make in maintaining a car. I try choose the simplest path that makes the most sense to me, and offers the least perceivable risk - and it's not always easy. Often I will do something that is 'widely accepted' before I try something 'experimental'. You're doing the right thing here in asking for opinions. You may not have a 100% answer, but hopefully after reading various thoughts on the subject you'll get a feeling for the direction you are most comfortable pursuing.

florence_x wrote:

AA wrote:

Yes, actually there is something you can do: Top Engine Clean

Most dealers will provide this service for about $100. You can also put the stuff in your gas to clean gunk off valves, pistons and cylinders.

Having said that, I've personally never used it!

Thanks! I'm definitely going to do that instead.

I currently have some fuel injector oil in the tank but I diluted it with more gasoline before letting the tank run empty (I had to get back to NJ from MD). But I could always use the Seafoam product within the next month to clean it out.

I was going to go to a Fastrak Oil place to get my oil changed tomorrow - I don't know if this is a chain or not. I guess at this point I could wait to see if my mechanic will do it on Saturday, but he has been pretty busy lately so I guess I'll see.

Hmmm....

you work in construction.....

I'm thinking I should let you in on a secret - changing oil in the Riv is pretty easy. You don't need to jack the car up or put on ramps if you don't mind laying on the ground to wrench off the drain plug or reaching up by feel to remove/install the filter... and if your grip strength is sufficient, you won't need a wrench to get the filter off/on...

Hmmmm.....

Albertj

I put a link to an article that pretty much falls in line with my thinking. Because of my life at the Jiffy, I have become overly particular about fluid changes. Many of you will feel I am just wasteful but the rivi drives like the first day I got her (over 100,000 miles ago) so hopefully I'm doing something right.

I flush my transmission fluid every 15,000 miles. Keep in mind, by flush I mean they hook up the machine and under the power of the vehicle itself, it changes out the oil.

Every 30,000 miles, I flush and the transmission and change the pan gasket & filter.

every 3000 miles, I change my oil and filter. I use 10w30 full synthetic. I prefer Castrol normally.

http://autotechrepair.suite101.com/article.cfm/040206

In the end, do what you're comfortable with.

Welp, I just got back. I had an engine flush while the oil was changed.

My family trusts this place, and they didn't push anything on me to get it. I suggested it.

What a difference it made already! I took the car out for a little drive afterward, everything is so much smoother now. I can't imagine the inside of the engine was too filthy, but nonetheless, it did help, and the mechanics walked me through every step of the way. So I'm feeling pretty confident at present.

I guess we'll see how she does this weekend when I take her out for a trip to DE.

Thank you all for your help. I have taken everything into consideration and everyone's helpful ideas are greatly appreciated.

Anyone else notice that the PF-52 lost about 3/4 inch of length?

dont know bout that,but as the years go by im losing inches elswhere...yesh..pretty soon im going to call my personal PF-52..."MIA!"

I'm gaining inches - everywhere but there...

On a separate note: I'm happy for Florence, and we all know that we don't know how our cars were treated previously. On my own car, however, I was blown away by how CLEAN the inside of the engine was when I changed my pan gasket! I mean, if there were numbers on the bottoms of the pistons, I could have read them with younger eyeballs...

I have no idea what is in any of the stuff touted for engine flushes these days, but I remember the early '50s. The word was that if you drained your oil, then poured in a gallon of kerosene, you would clean out all kinds of stuff in your engine. They were right--stuff like bearings, rods (all the way through the block), etc. In a way, this worked well. You wound up with a freshly cleaned rebuilt engine. Of course there was the expense...
On the slim possibility that some some of these idiots may still be out there, I occasionally run a couple of short changes (300 to 500 miles), just as you do with a newly rebuilt engine. Otherwise, 3000 miles without fail.

deekster_caddy wrote:

Just pull up to the nearest storm drain, drive one wheel up on curb, then drain all the oil away.

LOL genius.

robotennis61 wrote:

dont know bout that,but as the years go by im losing inches elswhere...yesh..pretty soon im going to call my personal PF-52..."MIA!"

LOL

charlieRobinson wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

Just pull up to the nearest storm drain, drive one wheel up on curb, then drain all the oil away.

LOL genius.

Oh shit, when did I say that?

(I remember when it was "okay" to dump our oil - we had a bush on the edge of our property growing up we always poured it under. Decades later there was no sign of it ever causing any problems that we knew about...)

I worked in a friends steel fabrication over a season and out back they had an area that at some point in time had a tree, they used it for dumping anything and everything chemical! if you stood in that spot on a hot summer day,it quickly became a quagmire that threatned to suck you down under.No joke.

The Earth loves us so much.