Write-Up: Changing Engine Oil

deekster_caddy wrote:

Eldo wrote:

One last note: It appears that most of the people who can't make the clear flood mode work have re-tuned their PCM's.......

Well that's true, and I have altered the 0 and 400 RPM areas of the VE table.

Ah, thank you, Derek. I figured that messing with the fuel-maps could easily 'damage' the clear-flood mode, and from what I found on the 'net, the decision-RPM is around 300...

I remember recently there was a thread about engine/power flushing for oil changes? Do you guys have any opinions on this? I was thinking about getting it done tomorrow.

I don't have an opinion about power flushing as I've never had it done, but I noticed nobody commented on your low coolant light. In my humble opinion changing the coolant isn't likely going to fix your problem and is probably unnecessary unless you see signs of oil or other contaminants. Before you spend any money you may want to check for loose or damaged wires at the sensor.

I've heard of flushing coolant and transmission fluid, but I've always thought oil was changed by simply draining out and refilling.

There are some places advertising "Engine Flushes".
It's pure snake oil salesmanship. And can cause damage.

For a good running engine just have a normal oil change with 5W30 oil, as per MFG recommendations.
Also, regarding your Low Coolant light, it is more than likely the Coolant Level Sensor is dirty or defective.
They tend to develop a layer of crud on them that stops them from recognizing the fluid around them.
So, you can drain about half the radiator coolant out and remove the sensor, which is on the passenger side about halfway down the radiator and clean the film off it, then refill your radiator and see if that took care of the problem, and if it didn't then repeat and replace with new.
Personally I'd drain and flush system and replace sender with new and avoid all the other motions, unless you have the time and the sensor is too expensive.
I don't know what the sensors cost but I don't think it would be too much from your local auto parts store.
If your paying someone else to flush your cooling system you should have them change the sensor and thermostat for preventive maintenance.
I recommend NOT bring it to one of the chain "Quicky Lube" places and have a real mechanic do it for you.

EDIT: Use 10W30 oil, and specify to your mechanic that it is the correct oil for this engine.
99% of other engine use 5W30 and it is what all the Quick lube places have in bulk (55 gal. drums.)

Also, if you can get them to install the equivalent to a AC Delco PF52 Oil Filter, your better off. This filter fits our cars and has more capacity, holds and filters more oil.

My manufacturer's recommends 10W-30. That's what I use except in the very coldest months.

I stand corrected: For our engines it is 10W30, you are correct.
??Did I get the Oil Filter number correct.????
The longer one is PH52 Isn't it.???

Thank you to whoever moved my post - this is exactly what I was looking for (and of course managed not to find)!

Rickw wrote:

EDIT: Use 10W30 oil, and specify to your mechanic that it is the correct oil for this engine.
99% of other engine use 5W30 and it is what all the Quick lube places have in bulk (55 gal. drums.)

Also, if you can get them to install the equivalent to a AC Delco PF52 Oil Filter, your better off. This filter fits our cars and has more capacity, holds and filters more oil.

Thanks for the tip. I currently have 5W30 oil in the car.

My dad seems to think I need the engine flushed. I don't know how clean the engine is exactly, but of course if there were a way to clean out any gunk that might be in there safely and correctly, I'd like to do it.

Quote :

The longer one is PH52 Isn't it.???

It's a PF52.

AA wrote:

Quote :

The longer one is PH52 Isn't it.???

It's a PF52.

I thoght PF52 was a Fram Filter and a
AcDelco was PH52. I'm confused again, maybe.

PF52 is ACDelco, PH52 is the Fram. Never noticed the Fram was different.

So I can assume that an engine flush is a bad thing, right?

I've been researching throughout the day and reading a lot of horror stories online about engine failure shortly after.

Is there any way I can clean any potential gunk out besides this flush? I'd like to think that the car had regular oil changes before I got her, but I can't be 100% sure.

Yes, actually there is something you can do: Top Engine Clean

Most dealers will provide this service for about $100. You can also put the stuff in your gas to clean gunk off valves, pistons and cylinders.

Having said that, I've personally never used it!

AA wrote:

Yes, actually there is something you can do: Top Engine Clean

Most dealers will provide this service for about $100. You can also put the stuff in your gas to clean gunk off valves, pistons and cylinders.

Having said that, I've personally never used it!

Thanks! I'm definitely going to do that instead.

I currently have some fuel injector oil in the tank but I diluted it with more gasoline before letting the tank run empty (I had to get back to NJ from MD). But I could always use the Seafoam product within the next month to clean it out.

I was going to go to a Fastrak Oil place to get my oil changed tomorrow - I don't know if this is a chain or not. I guess at this point I could wait to see if my mechanic will do it on Saturday, but he has been pretty busy lately so I guess I'll see.

Florence - I used to just run ATF and oil blend for 10 minutes or so and drain to add new oil and change filter. I've never used that Seafoam stuff for the crankcase though.

If you do go to an oilery, ask them to do that with the ATF/oil and if they are cool, they won't charge you. You'd be amazed how nasty the stuff looks like when they drain it.

That said, I used to manage a Jiffy years ago and I strongly recommend not wearing a skirt when you do get your oil changed - if you do, DO NOT have them do a "service review" by your car where the pit (area beneath the bay) is.

I hope that makes sense.

Power flush for engine oil??? Never heard of it, don't do it. I think your dad is confusing this with either a trans flush or coolant flush, or the top engine clean process that Aaron mentioned.

I did a top engine clean at a shop that performs the "MotorVac" cleaning process. Your engine actually runs on the cleaner fluid instead of gas for about 1/2 hr, as I recall. There was a noticeable improvement in starting and idle quality. This of course would be dependent on your engine's actual NEED for such a service.

1998 Riv wrote:

Power flush for engine oil??? Never heard of it, don't do it. I think your dad is confusing this with either a trans flush or coolant flush, or the top engine clean process that Aaron mentioned.

I did a top engine clean at a shop that performs the "MotorVac" cleaning process. Your engine actually runs on the cleaner fluid instead of gas for about 1/2 hr, as I recall. There was a noticeable improvement in starting and idle quality. This of course would be dependent on your engine's actual NEED for such a service.

I'm pretty sure you're right, that he is confusing it with the top engine clean.

My car probably does need it badly. I'd take it to a Jiffy Lube if they're good (I've never really had it done professionally), but I tend to be afraid of chain places.

Motorvac: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/care-maintenance-f8/motorvac-a-t793.htm

playa wrote:

That said, I used to manage a Jiffy years ago and I strongly recommend not wearing a skirt when you do get your oil changed - if you do, DO NOT have them do a "service review" by your car where the pit (area beneath the bay) is.

I hope that makes sense.

Lol! Yes, it made sense. Being in construction, I wear pants 99.9% of the time anyway.

Since you used to manage a Jiffy Lube, what are your objective opinions on chain places? I mean, I have nothing against them, but I don't want to get jipped/over-charged/have the wrong thing done. My mechanic is swamped as it is so I figured for the oil change, I don't necessarily need him to do it as long as I can get another place that will do it well.

EDIT - Jiffy Lube also has an "engine flush" fluid that they use, and recommend to use every 10k miles. I'm assuming this would be something similar to the Seafoam product?

Careful of the quikie lube places. My friend brought his winter beater there and they stripped the pan from over tightening the drain plug. They told him he needed a new pan, and fought with them about paying for a new one, but since they werent budging and he knew a bit about machining, he created new threads and used a larger plug.

BMD wrote:

Careful of the quikie lube places. My friend brought his winter beater there and they stripped the pan from over tightening the drain plug. They told him he needed a new pan, and fought with them about paying for a new one, but since they werent budging and he knew a bit about machining, he created new threads and used a larger plug.

That's exactly my fear about chain/quickie places.

The place I'm going to take my car to get the oil changed is good. My family goes there and they haven't had a complaint, and their cars run well.

I'm still debating whether or not they should do the flush or if I should just get the seafoam product and do it myself.

Remember, if you do the Seafoam yourself, it makes LOTS of smoke!

Yeah. Maybe I will do the seafoam in the vac and gas tank, and have the oilery do an ATF/oil blend for a few minutes to clean it out.

I have no problem with the smoke, I'm just not going to have time to do it for a while. I could always just get the oil changed and then do it at a later date (holding off wouldn't make too much of a difference at this point I'm sure).

Do you think the ATF/oil blend when I get the oil changed will help in the meantime?


BTW - I really appreciate everyone's patience and help with me on this topic. I'm not entirely new to cars, but I'm on my own for maintaining this one and it's a little overwhelming.

Quote :

Do you think the ATF/oil blend when I get the oil changed will help in the meantime?

Depends on what you mean exactly by "help". What exactly is the problem that needs helped? If you get a bunch of dirt out of the crankcase, I guess that's good news, but will it relieve any issues you are having? Maybe, I'm not sure. Maybe not.

My experience has been to change my oil every 3000 miles for the life of the car, which has so far been 202k miles. I have never added anything other than conventional 10W-30 oil to my engine. My oil comes out a little on the brown side, but I'm happy with how the engine performs overall. I've never performed an upper engine clean with Seafoam. Only thing I do is put a bottle of Techron fuel injector cleaner in the tank every 5000k miles or so.

I do use the fuel injector oil.

I don't really have any issues with the way the engine is running. She feels like she "stutters" in the wheels when I hit the gas hard and try to get from 40 to 70mph quickly, but other than that, no issues.

I really just want to get the crankcase cleaned out.