Write-Up: No Start + 3 min delay / Disabling PASS-Key II Security

I don't know about a '95, but as far as I can tell, from '96 onward the radio
has its own security system, and nothing to do with the VATS.


The only thing I can think of is if pulling the radio interrupted a serial data line that
was shared with the VATS... but that would be pretty stupid.

WAIT A MINUTE!! When I had my tape player replaced, I drove my '97 without any radio at all!

Deek - no, stock ignition switch.

RickW - Thanks, I found an old post of yours linking to this site - Link - about bypassing VATS.

Incidentally, you also asked AA to add the link to the write-up section.

AA, how about we add the link this time There are a bunch of threads about this topic.

RickW again - assuming this is the problem, will changing the ignition switch or getting a new key made solve it too?

I personally prefer to do one thing at a time and see, and like to do the least expensive first, especially when it could be the real problem.
A mech that worked at the dealership I did, would do this repair or by-pass for the customers quite frequently, with their acceptance and knowledge, and would save them a bunch of money all the time. We had a Radio Shack just a few minutes down the road.

Jack the R wrote:

- assuming this is the problem, will changing the ignition switch or getting a new key made solve it too?

Jack, your problem could simply be a normal, worn-out ignition switch, it depends on how the Security light acts.

Also, you can check out your key pellet with a multi-meter. Read my post at the bottom of this page...

You have to be kidding me . All you need like albertj says is a 10 cent resistor. Just ohm your key and presto your done after a little bit of soldering.

It can be that simple. And has been that simple for many people that aren't concerned with the security system being partialy disabled.
If some people, not saying you, would bother to read what has already been written in this forum, there is a lot of knowledge and money to be saved.

I think my next entrepreneurial endeavor will be to make and market these plug in boxes for a Discount price of $100.00 and sell them on SleezeBay .
Hopefully Admin will remove this self serving advertisement off the board ASAP.

Recently my 95 supercharged riv has been cutting out and generally feeling like crap. I have replaced the plugs, wires, harmonic balancer and crank position sensor. I did the balancer to get rid of a nasty rattle. I have no service engine light. The security light will stay on after it starts for a random period of time.
If I wiggle the key sometimes the light will go out. Any help on this issue will be helpful. I have had new keys made for the car. Thinking I may need to replace the ignition switch?

slacker2620 wrote:

Recently my 95 supercharged riv has been cutting out and generally feeling like crap. I have replaced the plugs, wires, harmonic balancer and crank position sensor. I did the balancer to get rid of a nasty rattle. I have no service engine light. The security light will stay on after it starts for a random period of time.
If I wiggle the key sometimes the light will go out. Any help on this issue will be helpful. I have had new keys made for the car. Thinking I may need to replace the ignition switch?

Yeh, that would be the next logical thing to do.

Unless of course you want do what some dipshit did and install a non-existant $180.00 box that will solve all your problems.
If you should see the post, dis-regard, it is a rip off.

slacker2620 wrote:

Recently my 95 supercharged riv has been cutting out and generally feeling like crap. I have replaced the plugs, wires, harmonic balancer and crank position sensor. I did the balancer to get rid of a nasty rattle. I have no service engine light. The security light will stay on after it starts for a random period of time.
If I wiggle the key sometimes the light will go out. Any help on this issue will be helpful. I have had new keys made for the car. Thinking I may need to replace the ignition switch?

Try cleaning the ignition keyway with a q-tip dipped in dry gas (alcohol). Clean it carefully, observing especially that the metal paddles in the switch get thoroughly clean .

Albertj

Rickw wrote:

It can be that simple. And has been that simple for many people that aren't concerned with the security system being partialy disabled.
If some people, not saying you, would bother to read what has already been written in this forum, there is a lot of knowledge and money to be saved.

I think my next entrepreneurial endeavor will be to make and market these plug in boxes for a Discount price of $100.00 and sell them on SleezeBay .
Hopefully Admin will remove this self serving advertisement off the board ASAP.

AA: no kidding - This whole thread should be deleted.

Albertj

yes i have....thanks

Have you tested your key-pellet resistance?

http://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

yes all checks good...will an after market alarm or remote starter disable the stock security system?

billythekid7 wrote:

yes all checks good...will an after market alarm or remote starter disable the stock security system?

Depending on your definition of "disable", I'd say no. It can, however, definitely screw it up...

i mean bypass the stock security system?

Well, they could be installed either way, depending on the manufacturer... Are you asking because you've already got an aftermarket gadget, or as a way around the problem?

way around the issue as well as i belave i am having a pericedic drain from it as well....

I went out and started it - no problems this time. The security light goes off about a second after ignition.

I've got this thing -



But no idea how to use it.

Just for a trial as to how to use your multi-meter.
Turn it to ohms (X1K) and touch the two probes together and see if you get a zero Ohms reading on the scale. That will tel you if the batteries inside are still good.

I've got to go but I'll be back, if not tonight tomorrow.

It doesn't sound crazy to me to lose a defective security system that can completely disable your car at any time. I read many suggestions that all take money and time. How much time does $180 buy. I spent it and now have a car that works and I did not have to worry about the radio (which is stock) or the ignition switch or any other possiblities. A well placed kill switch is cheaper and more effective than what I removed. Just trying to give another viable option.

I think most of the guys would say that using an aftermarket system to get around the problem is more difficult than just fixing the problem.

Also, with all the constantly-on modules in these cars, from the PCM to the RFA to the Radio, to the VAT, the odds that this particular item is causing an unusual parasitic drain are probably slim...

Do you have an FSM?

(Also, a gentle reminder: Please fill out your signature file, so we always know what year & engine we're talking about.)

Jack: Sorry, but that meter won't help... You need a digital meter to measure the resistance of these pellets.

As I said in one of these threads, these are very accurate resistors: you have to be able to measure a 4% difference...

I'm sorry JR, Eldo is correct.
It will take a Digital Multimeter (DMM) to get an accurate measurement on the resistor that is in your key. Some call it a pellet, or chip or other things. But all it is is a resistor. But as has been mentioned, they are of a very specific resistance per vehicle, that you will need someone with a better meter than what you have to measure the resistance of the key accurately.
Then you can but the correct resistor at Radio Shack that would allow you to by-pass the Pass-Key by soldering this known resistor in the wire.
I'm sorry i didn't pick up on that sooner. Your meter is good to have around for most things, just not this.
I do wish i lived closer to come over and help with the correct tools and teach some. But since that isn't going to happen soon we'll have to figure out another way.
Sorry,
Rick.

How good a DMM does the job need? Google can find them from $8 to $188.