FAQ: P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor (Cam Sensor / Timing Chain)

ok who knows what exactly needs to come off to do this timing set replacement. I have the belts off and that mount all off as well as the p/s pump out of the way and i'm lookin at this thing and i still cant find the front cover really. i cant define where it is exactly. do i need to remove the alternator or anything else to get in there

oh yeah and how the F are you supposed to get the coolant out without spillin it all stupid? I see no petcock or anything anywhere!

I just got the Rollmaster chain today. will try to start the job tomorrow. I'll post info from the manual as I get to it. So far, I've read the sprocket bolt is a one-time use (stretches when torqued), so will need to pick up a new one from GM. Here's the RM:

AA wrote:

So far, I've read the sprocket bolt is a one-time use (stretches when torqued), so will need to pick up a new one from GM. Here's the RM:

You talkin about the one for the cam gear?
Oh boy - i'm glad i did know that...
I hope my chevy dealer has it or i'm pretty much screwed.

Yes, the cam sprocket bolt is part #24501366, sells for $5.55. NO ONE has it in my area. Only way is to drive to Akron (over 100 miles), so I'm putting this project off till next weekend, sorry. Ordered the bolt through GM parts, will be in Wed or so.

Guess I'll tackle the SC coupler today instead...

Here's some shop manual info, hope it helps out:

I got the cover off and I got called into work today at 4 so I can't really do more but I was able to get the cam bolt from a relatively near-by dealer so i have that. Also, Aaron, while you're getting parts, take a look at the plastic 90deg elbow that goes from the front of the intake manifold to the tensioner housing to connect to the heater hoses. If you have any kind of miles on the car at all, the ends of that elbow are going to break as soon as you try to remove it. These always break so you should be able to get it at a close dealer

Right now I'm at the point of cleaning all the parts I took off and deciding if I should replace the water pump or not.

I realize that it's not my money that I'm spending, but since you have it all apart, I would go ahead and put a new pump on there.

Agreed. I plan to put a new water pump on when I'm in there.

well I didn't replace the water pump because it was already new. I just removed it and put the new gasket on there just in case it leaked from the holes or something

Update

I finished the job and ended up not screwing anything up.
It seems to run less sloppily and doesnt do some of those weird things anymore like die for pretty much no reason.

HOWEVER, I still have the same two trouble codes and still have strange WOT behavior at high rpm. When it hits high rpm and the 1-2 shift at WOT, it just kinda wanders and bogs up close to the rev limiter until it finally decides to shift and then goes normal

To say the least I am frustrated that i'm going to loose my license over a problem that has no apparent cause if i can't fix it

I believe I've finally figured out this problem. The MAF sensor code and the cam sensor code are totally unrelated. It seems the cam sensor code (P0341) is being caused by a bad wire going from the PCM to the ICM. It's the black wire which is the main signal wire for the cam sensor. So I have to run a new wire for that. (Just needed my service manual and the multimeter to discover this)

As far as the MAF sensor code (PO102), it seems that my sensor (which was already replaced twice) is bad. Hopefully, my problem is the sensor alone. I should know once my replacement comes.

Note: during most of my recent diagnostics, I ruled out the MAF sensor because it was replaced and worked perfect when I put it in (about 4 months ago). What tricked me is that it apparently grew worse over this time.

At this point, I can only use all members here on the forum with oil-based air filters as evidence to say that my MAF sensor isn't just dirty from the oil.

Used K&N for tens of thousands of miles with no MAF issues. Wonder if aftermarket MAF is inferior quality, or did you replace with OEM?

if you still have that air filter on like it is in the photo.... thats what melted the cat and started damaging other stuff.in my car. It would easliy overload the maf sensor....try it out.

No problems with the K&N here although probably no more than 3000 miles.

AA wrote:

Wonder if aftermarket MAF is inferior quality, or did you replace with OEM?

I had certainly considered that also. Replaced mine with a remanufactured Cardone part with a lifetime warranty. I'm going to swap it again since it takes about a minute but next time, I may just get the OEM one or replace it with one of the performance ones if I have tuning capabilities by then.

where is ur air filter located?????

97rivman wrote:

where is ur air filter located?????

FW

The problem(s) have been cured!!!!!!!

way happy here

The MAF sensor had a bad wire also. I ran the wire for that and the cam signal wire and everythings cool now.

little FYI - my GM service manual was wrong about where this wire was located. It said the yellow MAF signal wire was on the clear PCM connector but it's actually on the blue one. That threw me off.

bad gm service manual writer people

turtleman wrote:

Well I actually just changed my cam sensor finally so time for a quick write up. 40 dollar part new. one 10mm bolt that holds it in. It's located just below and slightly to the left of the water pump pulley above the crank pulley. It is pretty much blocked by the mount bracket in that area so that makes it somewhat tricky to change but it's not too hard. Although it is probably possible to do without, loosening the main belt and removing the water pump pulley (4, 7mm bolts) helps enormously. For installation, no sealer or special prep is necessary. GM specifies the bolt be tightened to 44in lb although I believe you would be perfectly safe using a 1/4 in drive socket wrench like a normal person without steroids or muscular dystrophy and be fine. the plate is aluminum and won't cross-thread or crack unless you are a gorilla with a snap-on. I would suggest having a small pick-up magnet near by just in case. (i dropped the bolt a few times)

FINALLY got the code to stay on.............. everytime i disallow it , it comes RIGHT on back........... soo did you have a REALLY CRAPPPY engine shutter with this??? idk im doing it tommorow... oh boy......

i installed it yesterday......... i ended up having to take off the water pump pulley and the main accessory belt with that...... I FINALLY got the little bolt into the camshaft sensor and all hooked up properely...... so i deleted the code and i HAD NO sevice engine soon light............. Took it for a ride and NOOOOOOOOO SES light........ then this morning i started it and it popped up...... CRAPPP........ i deleted it again and BAM it comes back......... any suggestions????

you might need a case learn.

very helpful THANK YOU TURTLE

deekster_caddy wrote:

you might need a case learn.

a case learn? is that a powertuner term???

after reading Turtleman's quest on trying to get rid of the code..... i decided to wiggle the wires and straighten them out.......... and BAM i started it up and it was fine........ 1 hour later i started it put it in reverse got to the street put er' in drive and BAM the code came on ................ IM planning on just deleting the code everytime it comes on...........

Thank you for the update. Have you had a CASE learn done? Pat, you too? Since the cam have you had a CASE learn?