FAQ: P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor (Cam Sensor / Timing Chain)

Thank you 96reese

jus sent the info

Your Aldata diag chart worked. I could have changed parts till im blue in the face and still not fixed it. So the problem was and open or broken wire (sensor input) between the ICM and the PCM. now the traction light, along with the SES light is gone. BYE BYE P0341 thank you much.

Happy holiday's all!

We've had a stretch of really cold weather (some nights below zero) my Riv's not liking it any more than I am.

I noticed last week that while at a stop light it wants to jump into neutral, I believe the term is "neutraling out". I've checked my fluid level and it's ok. about the same time maybe a week later I felt a stumble while in cruise at about 65-70mph, felt it one other time while approaching a rise in the road, not sure if it's transmission related....but just this week "service engine soon" lit up and throw's code P0341-cam position sensor.

Are there any write-up's or threads concerning anyone here that has successfully dealt with this code? Could it be related to a damaged belt or tensioner can someone help figure out what happened or is happening...it's too damn cold to be messing with it and I still have a bit of shoppin to do...I'm a last minute shoppper.

heres another one
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-ii-engine-transmission-f4/camshaft-position-sensor-t416.htm?highlight=cam+position+sensor
good luck with it

Thanks Curious Chris...I just changed the sensor, 10 minute job, it took longer for the one man show at AutoZone to wait on me (29.99 part)...light is still on but I think the PCM needs so may warm-up cylces to make sure all is well and clear the code...will keep my fingers crossed and the forum informed as that occurs...must be a weak link.

I was reading in the other links about the p0341 and i think i saw where someone changed out their wires and that got rid of the code.
Good luck with it! I'll cross my fingers for ya too

PO341 code, 1998 Riviera
I found a broken wire in connector c101, pin a7, black 18 gauge wire to the ignition module. The wire was broken inside the insulation so it looked like it was good from the outside. C101 is the big 72 wire connector near the trans dip stick and A7 is the black wire on the bottom left side of the connector. It's a tight squeeze but you have to cut the wire before and after the connector to jump around it. Test the connection first with a meter between the connector then after confirming the open, gently pull on the wire with a needle nose from the front of the connector, and look to see that the insulation stretches indicating that wire inside is broken from the stress of the weight of the harness.

how does this effect the car if not fixed?

The PCM(power control module), relies on the last time it was able to get a reading from the cam position sensor and uses that recorded data to calculate the correct sequences for ignition and fuel injector pulses. The car should run well, but at a less efficient rate. The MIL(malfunction indicator light) will light and a p0341 DTC will register.

i like this guy...ur way to smart for me. lol but im like 90% sure a couple weeks ago i got this error...the guy said he did sumthin and it actually went away for a little and would only periodically come on..but recently comes on all the time.....and my gas mileage is significantly worse...
im not as crazy as i thought, matt lol

what type of job is this? (btw im not good enough at all to do my own) is it a long job?

No, it should take about an hour but it's just very tricky to splice the wire since there isn't much slack to begin with. You have to remove the large connecting block off the firewall and trim back some of the harness to get to the wires. Radio Shack sells 3m UR2 connectors that really make it easier to splice the wires. Most telephone technicians have them on their truck. They call them "U R connectors" These red connectors make it so all you have to do is insert the wires and compress it. It would also help to join www.alldatadiy.com to see the wiring schematic and diagrams of the connector before you start.

yupp...this is my problem. i got it scanned today. its this code(im guessing its the same code for obd1.5 as it is for 2)
i have to spend a few hours at the shop 2morro getting the exact problem diagnosed. im hopin this isnt going to cost me much.
but im seriously rocking like 10mpgs in the city and 20 hwy..

yupp..need a new sensor...200 bucks more
so lets see..
transmission 600
and now this 200
and this is just in 6 weeks

200 is not bad at all. Is the wiring ok?

yes. he said he checked all the wiring. all was fine.

hey guys..
i just got home from gettin my sensor replaced...im not sure if its because it was runnin a few weeks with the check engine light on for the cam..but after it was replaced...it feels like its "gargling" if that makes sense...it doesnt feel as smooth as it did..is it supposed to be like that.
the power is still there..
does the computer need to learn the new repititions of the cams for some amount of miles?

No, it should run smooth right away. He could have reset the ECM(computer). Resetting the ECM does require the. system to pass all its readiness tests in order to keep the service light from turning on, but it should run smooth and not gargle from the start. Take it back and have him take a look at it.

Well my ticking stopped after some good oil circulation so now its just on to figuring out this P0341 code. Bill thinks i knocked something loose while fiddling with the belts so hopefully I'll be able to check it out tomorrow since it was too dark to see after i got home from woodward. I was gonna scan to look for misfires but my DHP wasn't scanning right for some reason so I'll have to mess with that tomorrow as well. Good news is that it seems to be running smoothly now minus the SES.

L67 wrote:

Well my ticking stopped after some good oil circulation so now its just on to figuring out this code. Bill thinks i knocked something loose while fiddling with the belts so hopefully I'll be able to check it out tomorrow since it was too dark to see after i got home from woodward.

After you pop the valve covers and screw with the push rods its a good idea to unplug the injector harness and crank it over for two 10 second intervals.. to get the oil movin around.. than plug the injector harness back in...

98riviera98 wrote:

L67 wrote:

Well my ticking stopped after some good oil circulation so now its just on to figuring out this code. Bill thinks i knocked something loose while fiddling with the belts so hopefully I'll be able to check it out tomorrow since it was too dark to see after i got home from woodward.

After you pop the valve covers and screw with the push rods its a good idea to unplug the injector harness and crank it over for two 10 second intervals.. to get the oil movin around.. than plug the injector harness back in...

Wish I'd known it earlier, but at least its sorted out now. So anyone have any other suggestions for the cam sensor issue?

L67 wrote:

98riviera98 wrote:

L67 wrote:

Well my ticking stopped after some good oil circulation so now its just on to figuring out this code. Bill thinks i knocked something loose while fiddling with the belts so hopefully I'll be able to check it out tomorrow since it was too dark to see after i got home from woodward.

After you pop the valve covers and screw with the push rods its a good idea to unplug the injector harness and crank it over for two 10 second intervals.. to get the oil movin around.. than plug the injector harness back in...

Wish I'd known it earlier, but at least its sorted out now. So anyone have any other suggestions for the cam sensor issue?

Turtleman and i had a similar issue check out these threads
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-ii-engine-transmission-f4/the-big-problem-cam-sensor-timing-chain-t1503.htm

Was your wire bad as well?

L67 wrote:

Was your wire bad as well?

yes the yellow wire going to the MAF to the PCM was bad and also a black (signal wire) going from the ICM to the PCM was bad... easy easy fix