5.25 MB Quarts- hot deal

Do you have a budget for a sub? I can think of several things I would use before a Tang band woofer. I haven't had very good luck with them in the past. There are woofers that you can mount to the rear deck, just like the factory 6x9s, that essentially use the trunk as an enclosure.

The problem with the trunk as the enclosure is that the loading changes when the trunk is empty/full.

n00b question - it takes an amp to power a subwoofer, right?

Right.

I agree with scott's comment about using 6x9" "subs" instead of trying to produce full range sound from back there. You could also try 6.5" round subs in an MDF adapter. The type of subs you need for this are called "free air" or "infinite baffle" designs. They work in a very large enclosure (your trunk), and typically don't handle a lot of power. Not that loud, either. But they do play very flat and accurate. It's hard to find IB subs anymore; they weren't a popular option with those seeking big boomin' bass (most everyone).

Sure, filling the trunk will change the bass response, but so does opening a window or sun roof. It's something you live with, and if you are a purist, it helps keep your trunk clean.

I've stated before my opinion on rear fill: leave the stockers in, or use nothing at all - unless you have extra money to spend. If you do use rear fill, it should be barely noticeable from the front seat, imo. Speakers with limited range and power handling (like OEM) are perfect. The idea of creating two different sources of soundstage inside the car is flawed, unless you are using sound processing equipment that can make use of delay. This is what happens in home theater - they don't just copy the front channels, there is a unique sound track for the rear.

There are still a lot of subs that will work "free air" you just have to know what to look for. No one labels subs as free air or infinite baffle anymore. look for a QTS or total Q value of .5 or higher in the specs of the sub. Anything .5 or higher should be fine.

Give these a look: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=29

I think I saw a pair on ebay for around $220. I'd really like to see someone try this direction. Properly installed, two of these could sound like a single 12" sub.

The W3 is a great all around sub.

AA wrote:

I've stated before my opinion on rear fill: leave the stockers in, or use nothing at all

I tried fronts only, didn't like it. Granted if I had an amp and subwoofer the results would likely be better, but I'd prefer to be surrounded by sound than have it come from one direction only.

What about those infinity speakers I linked to?

If you've got to be surrounded by sound, the best thing would be another pair of the MB Quarts for the rear. At least then it would be tonally matched. I don't think MB Quart made 6x9" components or coaxials, but I could be wrong.

Being that you're not keen to the idea of sound coming from one direction, you may want to take the rest of my advice with a grain of salt. My opinions will usually support the purist listener experience: flat response, focused sound stage, accurate tone, and very deep bass with quick transients. If you're looking for something new, you may need to do some experimenting, maybe some research to figure out what kind of listener category you fall into.

2nd set of Quarts ordered for rear - where do I get the adaptor plates from?

I think with the quarts, an amp and a sub I'll be happy.

Jack the R wrote:

2nd set of Quarts ordered for rear - where do I get the adaptor plates from?

I think with the quarts, an amp and a sub I'll be happy.

where did you find the rear speakers?

I think Jack ordered identical 5 1/4" MB Quarts for the rear.

You can make your own adapters out of MDF, or order these:

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Brackets-Speaker-adapter-plates/dp/B001AXHTZU/ref=pd_cp_e_1

Are there any devices for introducing a slight delay to the rear speakers?

There is, actually. You can take an old Roland Boss DD-2 or higher, and use its delay function to drive the rear amplifier channels. I've always wanted to try, but there are signal processors that give more control, and many newer head units offer the feature. I still like the Roland pedal idea because it's less expensive. Here's what the pedal looks like:

It needs an amp?

Don't know, it's very small in size. I doubt is has much power to offer. It might be able to power the rears, but if you want them to keep up with the fronts, you'll need an amp. I also think operating the delay box at low level would sound a lot cleaner. Let the amp do the work.

Alright, something to think about when I get an amp. At least it can be done. Maybe done better with a new head unit? Would really like to keep the factory unit but only being able to play cds is a bummer.

A new head would make it simpler to connect and use from the front seat, but harder to install tastefully in the dash. Unless you use a double DIN unit, I think aftermarket heads look pretty bad.

I learned about the Roland pedal reading a car audio magazine in the mid '90s. They were very impressed with the quality and low cost of using the pedal. I think it was $120 new back then.

AA wrote:

A new head would make it simpler to connect and use from the front seat, but harder to install tastefully in the dash. Unless you use a double DIN unit, I think aftermarket heads look pretty bad.

Adapter plates ordered!

If you are replacing the deck, there are several models that have time alignment built in. Some Alpine, and Pioneer come to mind but I am sure there are others.

If you keep the stock deck you can use an Alpine pxa-h700 or 701 (plus the controller). This is a processor that has 31 band eq per channel, very flexible x-over, time alignment, and 5.1 surround if so inclined. These units can be found fairly easily, there is usually some on ebay. I know it sounds like overkill, but you will get the time delay on the rear that you are looking for. Plus you will likely never outgrow it with future needs and/or expansion.

Do you mean, "If I don't keep the stock deck?" I googled teh pxa-h700 and it's like a head unit.

The h700 is not a head unit, only a processor. It can be used with any deck via rca input. If you are not using an Alpine deck you have to get the control unit also. The control unit (ruxc700/701) is the part that looks like a head unit. It is the same size as a standard deck but it is only about 3/4" deep so you can put it anywhere.

Scott's suggestion is nice because it will also give you EQ capability to fine tune the sound (makes the stock head sound better). I use a Kicker processor mounted in the area where the CD holder was - it does the same kind of thing, but without the delay functions. Mine has knobs, whereas the H700 is a digital interface. It would basically act as a pre-amplifier between your head and amps. I highly recommend it.