95RiviSC's Problem Thread

I've had this ongoing problem with my Riv and I can't seem to get it fixed. When I drive in speeds excess of 50MPH it starts to shake and stutter a little bit. The RPM thing goes crazy too. It also happens when going up a hill.

I've the pulley's looked at and had one of them replaced. I also had the check engine light come on and had that checked out. It said it was the ignition module and that was causing the stuttering. I had it replaced but the problem continues.

Thoughts?

Ignition wires?

I haven't had the wires themselves checked. All I keep hearing for a response is "Wait for the Check Engine light to come on, then we can fix it".

But ever since the ignition module was replace the light won't come on, but the problem continues.

If you don't know when the wires were last done, or haven't ever done them since getting the car, go with new wires. Preventative maintence on one hand, and might fix your problem on the other.

Shuddering under load, or uphill is 9 out of 10 times the plugwires.

replace the wires because at the very least we can rule them out as a possibility.
a set of plugs and wires, if you do it yourself, will only run about $50 for the good stuff.

i still got the same problem...same things on up hill and on 50miph whit 4gear it vibrates and shuters.
but not allways.
i got new wires/plugs and coils seemed to be fine(replaced one coil cos it broke)


BUT! as i remember when i replaces the wires (on 12.12.2008) the shutering stoped for some time...maybe the wires got damaged somehow...even tho they look fine on visualy inspection.
Got zzp 10mm wires arriving soon and iridium plugs..will see if the problem is solved after that.

Snowdog wrote:

i still got the same problem...same things on up hill and on 50miph whit 4gear it vibrates and shuters.
but not allways.
i got new wires/plugs and coils seemed to be fine(replaced one coil cos it broke)


BUT! as i remember when i replaces the wires (on 12.12.2008) the shutering stoped for some time...maybe the wires got damaged somehow...even tho they look fine on visualy inspection.
Got zzp 10mm wires arriving soon and iridium plugs..will see if the problem is solved after that.

Yea it starts right at 50MPH or so.

Well to top it off my car won't start anymore right now. I tried to jumpstart and it was a no go.

could also be the TCC slipping. that is the mph that that engages IIRC.
Is the transmission fluid level right?

still should replace the wires, b/c it's good insurance to keep the car running right.

as for the more immediate problem, does the car crank over at all or does it do nothing? we need more details to determine a no-start culprit.

Thanks for the help fellas. As soon as I get my car running I will try and get the wires replaced.

Mr.Riviera wrote:

could also be the TCC slipping. that is the mph that that engages IIRC.
Is the transmission fluid level right?

still should replace the wires, b/c it's good insurance to keep the car running right.

as for the more immediate problem, does the car crank over at all or does it do nothing? we need more details to determine a no-start culprit.

I just had the transmission flush done yesterday and I was suppose to take it back in today to get the fluid levels checked but alas, a new problem.

As far as the no-start. It wasn't giving me anything. So I called a friend to help my jumpstart it and all it would do was some clicking. So I'm thinking either a dead battery or the starter.

starters rarely ever go bad on 3800 motors. my bet is you need a new battery or the connections are bad. our cars a rated for 880 CCA and most cars dont have that kind of power, which makes our cars difficult to jump start. (the other car needs to be running, and try a direct connection to the battery)

transmission flushes are not a good idea IMO, but it's done and hopefully you wont have any problems.

Mr.Riviera wrote:

starters rarely ever go bad on 3800 motors. my bet is you need a new battery or the connections are bad. our cars a rated for 880 CCA and most cars dont have that kind of power, which makes our cars difficult to jump start. (the other car needs to be running, and try a direct connection to the battery)

transmission flushes are not a good idea IMO, but it's done and hopefully you wont have any problems.

I was thinking about doing a direct connection to the battery. I guess I gotta wait now, no friends are available to jumpstart it now. lol

You can jump it from the front battery terminal, but make sure you have a good connection and ground (I use the engine mount), and have the other car sit at medium revs for a couple of minutes. Then rev high (4k) before and during your starting attempt. If you have a truly dead battery, this can take several minutes.

I've discharged my original stock battery more than a few times. I can't sit with the car off and lights on for very long, but it still starts the car on a daily basis. Your battery might still have something left, even if it's dead.

yap! tranny flushes no good. but, cross fingers. i had the same problem i found one of the coils was bad.replaced coil and all was well until the problem reapeared. i found 2 of the cheapo vato zone wires were cooked,replaced them, and so far so good...ive had very good results with optima batteries ,might wanna try one.dont know if it will help but, look to your grounds? a similar problem occured with my friends astro van and they narrowed it down to corroded grounds. i mean...just check everything out and you will fix it. (i should talk, i know crap all about engines! but these are the things ive tried,witnessed, and sometimes.. you get lucky...)

So I tried removing the battery and failed tremendously. The wires that are connected to the battery posts are not moving at all. I have no idea on how to remove them.

8mm socket on the terminal posts to remove them. then unbolt the bracket retaining bolt (1/2 inch i believe) and lift the 50lb battery out. be careful you dont crack the vent tube on the back side, that should probably be removed before anything else.

Mr.Riviera wrote:

8mm socket on the terminal posts to remove them. then unbolt the bracket retaining bolt (1/2 inch i believe) and lift the 50lb battery out. be careful you dont crack the vent tube on the back side, that should probably be removed before anything else.

Good stuff man. I got it out.

Thanks for the help guys, it is much appreciated!

How cow! These batteries are expensive!!

yea i believe i paid around $90 for mine at the dealer, but good news is they tend to last much longer than any other battery. many of us get 8+ years out of it.

They want $130 for a new one!

95RiviSC wrote:

They want $130 for a new one!

check at WalMart, Advance Auto, and AutoZone. And Sears. There seem to be more Group 79 batteries available. I think they were $75 at a WalMart in Ebensburg I was in the other day. 1000 cranking amps.

They are pricey BUT if you keep the car electricals in good shape you will not have to replace the battery for a LONG time. 8 years of good use is common for the Delco battery from dealer or ACDelco parts centers.


Whatever you do - DO NOT cheap out and get a common battery that fits - the acid fumes will pop a hole in the floor of your car as quickly as a matter of months. Get the right one, right size, with the vents. The vent kit is less than $20 at the dealer if you need a new one.

Albertj

albertj wrote:

95RiviSC wrote:

They want $130 for a new one!

check at WalMart, Advance Auto, and AutoZone. And Sears. There seem to be more Group 79 batteries available. I think they were $75 at a WalMart in Ebensburg I was in the other day. 1000 cranking amps.

They are pricey BUT if you keep the car electricals in good shape you will not have to replace the battery for a LONG time. 8 years of good use is common for the Delco battery from dealer or ACDelco parts centers.


Whatever you do - DO NOT cheap out and get a common battery that fits - the acid fumes will pop a hole in the floor of your car as quickly as a matter of months. Get the right one, right size, with the vents. The vent kit is less than $20 at the dealer if you need a new one.

Albertj

Good call man. I went to Wal-Mart and they had them for $75. Just finished installing the new battery and she turns on!

Now to solve the other problems.

Triple check plugs and wires for your stuttering problem. Try spraying the wires with a mister (plant sprayer) when it's dark out with your hood up and watch for a light show... I find wires will rub through their insulation on corners against metal objects etc.

Ugh, I'm having to return the battery I purchased earlier. Turns out it's only doing 400 CCA and has about 50% of it's health left.

The guys at Tuffy's say that my problem with the stuttering is because of a faulty battery. Sounds kind of odd to me, but hey I will roll with it.

I think you need (1) a battery charger (2) to find out what is shorted and draining your battery so fast.

Batteries at retail stores are usually 90-100% charged, and they can test them for you then and there.

I am not saying Tuffy is wrong.

I am saying the battery health is probably a symptom not a cause of your woes.

THere are some problems that can happen to the ignition module that will drain the battery fast. I had the problem on anohter Buick, GM replaced the module under warranty. I doubt a warranty will apply to your case but I Am pretty sure you'll be able to find a good ignition module for a reasonable $$ price. A dealer mechanic woudl be able to confirm the module is the probme - or if you go to independent mecahanics one who's taken the GM training will be able to figure it out.

Good luck

Albertj