95RiviSC's Problem Thread

^^You know that might be it. I'll have to take a look at that tomorrow.

One quick question for you guys. About 3 months ago (roughly) I used a fuel additive called 44k. Would I be able to clean out the fuel injectors? Some guy was telling me that it's a bad idea, since I had used the fuel additive.

It's just a fuel system cleaner. I use a similar product (Techron) about every 3-5k miles. It's a good idea to clean your injectors.

AA wrote:

It's just a fuel system cleaner. I use a similar product (Techron) about every 3-5k miles. It's a good idea to clean your injectors.

Alright, thanks man. He was telling me that I should only be using the fuel additive no more than once a year because it could be harmful to the car.

But, I'll get the injectors cleaned out this weekend.

Techron could be used every 3-5K (I use it at least every other oil change) but other fuel additives maybe not.

Albertj

After doing all this maintenance on the vehicle, the stuttering(for lack of a better term) seems to have subsided. It was getting to the point where it would do it every single day at the same exact speeds.

Now, no problem with it. It did do it a little a few weeks ago but it hasn't since.

My only thing right now is that it seems to be kind of shaky. The plugs and cables have been replaced. Thoughts?

check the coils?

robotennis61 wrote:

check the coils?

How do I go about doing that?

start the car. starting from the top wire on the coil pack. with engine running remove one wire at a time and hold the wire closely to the coil, watch the spark if its weak that is an indication that the coil is failing. do each wire till you test them all. if one of the terminals is bad you wont see an arc. my top coil pack was in a intermitent failure and i located it this way. go to the auto store and buy a "plastic" wire puller. they are yellow. this will keep your hands from getting buzzed. if your tough and can take pain without meowling you dont need it. while your doing this keep your hands away from moving parts.

The car seems to be shifting kind of hard. It only does it when I've been driving for a while, 45min-1hr. You can really feel it after you come to a stop then accelerate. It does it around 20-30MPH.

Is this a cause for concern?

did u check the coils. have u changed the tranny fluid and filter?

robotennis61 wrote:

did u check the coils. have u changed the tranny fluid and filter?

I did check the coils and they were fine.

I don't know how it happened, but one of the plug wires on the backside of the engine was cut, so I replaced that.

As far as the tranny fluid and filter, they were both changed about 2 months ago.

95RiviSC wrote:

robotennis61 wrote:

did u check the coils. have u changed the tranny fluid and filter?

I did check the coils and they were fine.

I don't know how it happened, but one of the plug wires on the backside of the engine was cut, so I replaced that.

As far as the tranny fluid and filter, they were both changed about 2 months ago.

It may be the vacuum control modulator which is on the trans in the area beneath the throttle body. It's pretty cheap to buy and has a screw to adjust the shift harshness.

^^Can that modulator be tested?

95RiviSC wrote:

^^Can that modulator be tested?

I'm not sure but it's only like $10 so even if it doesn't necessarily solve the problem you won't lose much money.

Transmission Modulator Valve

Is that it?

95RiviSC wrote:

Transmission Modulator Valve

Is that it?

Looks right, there's no picture showing but it seems to be the right price.

I did a little Google search and it says that when that Modulator goes bad, it typically comes with white smoke. I haven't gotten any smoke. Just a rough shift from idle.

95RiviSC wrote:

I did a little Google search and it says that when that Modulator goes bad, it typically comes with white smoke. I haven't gotten any smoke. Just a rough shift from idle.

Well other 4T60 trans owners on here (myself included) have purchased this part with great success. It's only $13.... The rough shifting might also be from a loose vac line to the trans as well. You can check that out as well.

Yes. It could be a TPS or the like, that exact same thing happened to my '94 Regal 3800 and it was TPS. Do you have a check engine light?

deekster_caddy wrote:

Yes. It could be a TPS or the like, that exact same thing happened to my '94 Regal 3800 and it was TPS. Do you have a check engine light?

I didn't have a check engine light for about 3-4 weeks, until today.

I took her out for a drive and she started shuddering around 50MPH. The light came on right after. I don't have any cash to get the codes read and the Auto Zones by my place don't have the OBD scanner that I need .

It's starting to get kind of overwhelming at this point. I barely have enough money to get by and then stuff like this starts to happen, again.

id bet that the tps is bad.
just bring your riv here and ill scan it and help you fix it for nothing.

woggy wrote:

id bet that the tps is bad.
just bring your riv here and ill scan it and help you fix it for nothing.

Money is kind of tight right now (sadly). But I will try to get that replaced soon.

As far as your offer, I'd love to take it there, but unfortunately you are about 1600 miles too far, lol.

I don't know if this helps, but there was a weird noise coming from around the SC area. This was while the car was turned off. I recorded a short video of it, I'll try to upload it when I can.

Also, when I was at a red light the RPM needle would go up and down, but only between the 0 and the 1.