Brake Fluid

Yeah, I'm sure they left the fluid in there for a very long time before I got it.  I plan to change mine annually.  Looks like I'll be flushing them out again sooner though

I'll check the lines, bleed valves and around the calipers this weekend.

If the lines (flexible hoses, not the hard lines) are cracked, have we found any good direct fit/bolt-on stainless lines or are the OEM good enough?

Thanks again,  Al

1-year brake fluid changes maybe overkill if using DOT 3 fluid. I know this seems to contradict my previous posts, but I use the DOT 4 formula, so more frequent changing is better. It's different with DOT 3, which was created for the longest life, at the expense of performance. You can go longer between changes using DOT 3.

Buick opted for DOT 3 to last the life of the vehicle, which GM predicted as 150k miles or 12 years (my guess), whichever came first. The problem is, many of us exceeded one of those limits a long time ago, but didn't think to replace everything that might wear out or expire. Instead we wait for stuff to wear out (me included). This is why your fluid is now dark, and if I had to guess, 95% of cars on the road beyond their vehicle's rated life expectancy are the same way. Solution: change to fresh DOT 3 and go another 150k miles or 12 years with no worries. As a bonus, you'll freshen your brake fluid's boiling point to its original 400ºF mark. In its current state, if you get the brakes much hotter than 250ºF (easy to do), you could see fade becomes a concern.

If you want something extra, you can upgrade to DOT 4 fluid. What you get is an even higher dry boiling point of up to 530ºF. Providing the rest of your braking components are up to the challenge, this will let you do things other heavier cars can't, like coast down a steep mountain at high speed, then safely decelerate at any point with no issue. This also helps when towing with the Riv, or especially if running the car at a high-speed off-road course. Most people don't need DOT 4 in a Riv, but a few of us do. Me, I've monitored brake temps on my car and have seen 400ºF+ with some effort, so I like the added insurance.

The downside to DOT 4, it's suggested you change it more frequently, as it likes to absorb water even more than DOT 3. However, when I bled mine after 2 years it was still clear and new-looking. I think a 3 or 5 year interval would be fine for a daily driver. For DOT 3, check it in a few years and if still clear at the caliper bleeder valve, just leave it.

OEM hoses are just fine, but like any rubber product exposed to the elements, they need to be replaced eventually. I think 10 years is a good interval. Nothing wrong with fresh rubber hoses for a stock braking system, but again there's a step up with braided stainless steel hoses. For F-Body set-ups, ZZP makes a good set. For stock, you'll need to do some homework, but I guarantee there's a replacement that will fit. Stainless brake hoses will give you a slightly firmer pedal, and should last forever if installed correctly. Having said that, I had a pair fail on me because they were made the the wrong length and didn't provide adequate flexibility - lesson learned. If you install stainless hoses, make sure to get the correct length and also be sure to route them so there is no interference with suspension parts or rubbing the tires/wheels when steering. Inspect the lines after 1k and 5k miles.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271227120709?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

joshuadalegrimes wrote:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271227120709?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Well, how about that  


Here's a set of the same stainless steel lines for the 95-96


Goodridge 12240 SS Brake Line Kit Buick Riviera 95-96


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Goodridge-G-Stop-SS-Brake-Line-Kit-for-95-96-Buick-Riviera-Front-Back-12240-/271227117792


http://hawkbrakesdirect.com/12240-pv-381-441206-goodridge-g-stop-brake-line-kit.aspx

http://www.amazon.com/Goodridge-12240-Brake-Lines/dp/B004VPOYSO

Any idea of these Goodrich SS lines would be of equal or better build quality than the OEM or quality aftermarket rubber lines?

I ask because sometimes these flashy lines make all sorts of claims, but turn out to be poorly constructed and don't have the longevity/durability of the normal lines.

Looks like I'll be replacing my master cylinder, so I may just spring for these lines since I'll be flushing the system anyway.

I've found my leak BTW, or at least one of them (hopefully the only one), and it is the master cylinder.

It is slowly leaking at the base of the MC where it bolts to the vacuum booster, and running down the face of the booster under the MC... like it is "drooling"  

So, any recommendations on a manufacturer of master cylinder for our application that is at least OEM quality and has worked out well?  Have you typically been replace both the booster and the MC as a unit while you are at it, or not?

Thanks,

Al

If I were replacing the MC on mine, I would try to use the OEM unit from Ate. This has lasted by far the longest for any car I've owned. MC failures are relatively rare for 8th gen Rivieras, or at least they're not reported much. Ate made a fantastic unit.

As for SS lines, they truly are a functional mod, not just for show. The braided jacket keeps the line from expanding under pressure (watch a rubber line; it will swell a lot when compressed). When you hit the brake, the pedal response will be firmer and quicker with a SS line vs. OEM rubber.

Also SS lines shouldn't crack or wear out over time - if installed correctly. A rubber line is probably about done after about 10 years. Imo, most SS braid failures are from lines that are cut to the wrong length, or are not routed correctly causing rubbing or kinking. My first pair from ZZP developed kinks because they were too short. The replacements are doing fine. Only difference was extra length and a reinforced strain relief near the fitting. ZZP was well aware of the problem and fixed it, offering a prompt no-questions replacement.

FYI, Ate has been forced to discontinue sales of SuperBlue DOT 4 in the U.S., because someone at the D.O.T. finally noticed the fluid was blue and said: "You can't use blue fluid for brakes because washer fluid is blue." For years they got away with it, but the fun had to end sometime.

Now the fluid is amber in color, going by the name Type 200. It's the same stuff, now legal again. Stupid laws. I like the blue fluid, because you could tell it was the right stuff.

Ate Type 200 DOT 4: