FAQ: Vacuum Hoses & Lines (Series II SC)

robotennis61 wrote:

Well that my friend means that..you have enough tubing for all the members of rivperformance the entire life of Our vehicles! on behalf of all the members at rivperformance...thank you!!!! (ps. dont forget to inquire about our mailing info) thanks...

Well, I did some custom routing to better hide the clutter, but it was well worth it

? i would like to see a pic of that. sounds interesting

R & R'ing the intake and supercharger to replace the intake gaskets due to DexCool damage. Due to mileage and time, some of the vacuum hoses have seen better days as well. And they aren't all straight, simple hoses.

There is one that seems to step down from one size to another (haven't measured it yet) that is just toasted. Think it was on the wastegate. Any suggestions on what to use to replace this?

keller wrote:

R & R'ing the intake and supercharger to replace the intake gaskets due to DexCool damage. Due to mileage and time, some of the vacuum hoses have seen better days as well. And they aren't all straight, simple hoses.

There is one that seems to step down from one size to another (haven't measured it yet) that is just toasted. Think it was on the wastegate. Any suggestions on what to use to replace this?

get a piece of stock hose the right size and a set of vacuum tubing connectors - AutoZone, Advantage, and jsut about every other parts store with a reasonable counter has these. You *may* also want to get some "GOOP" cement to glue the tubing onto the connector you are using - not a requirement but a low hassle way to eliminate leak points. See this for an example of such a soft connector:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Vacuum-Tubing-Connectors---Soft-Dorman_5707188-P_N4016A_A%7CGRP2037____

The point is that the hard fittings are different sizes, so what GM did was to stick adapters onto stock hose sizes.

Albertj

robotennis61 wrote:

? i would like to see a pic of that. sounds interesting

Will do, but got to change the Engine 1st. The Machine Shop messed up on grinding my Crank, and my Engine spun a bearing. Luckily these engines are only about 400 at the junkyard complete!!

last weekend i changed all my cars vacumlines.
old ones where to cracked and leaked alot.
truyed to find silicone vacum lines but had no luck to find a place where they could have been for sell.
so i buyed some flexible fuel tubes...what where yellow and could see trhough them..woudl have wanted black or somethign red but oh well...buted them then.
for the T and L bends what cone from small to biger tube used some metal bends what had changeble heads.
oh well will make some pictures when i get home...sometimes pictures tell more then 1000words...

i agree

Ok here they are.,.
well not much a fan of the color..but they do ther job.


the L and T bends are of some metall on what you can change the heads whit diferent sizes.
i buted 6mm for the yellow lines and 10mm for the big one what goes to the throttle body...or how ever its called in english..

definitely looks cool

spaghetti! umm good

Hey gang, I have a new problem.

Pulled a P01020 code (MAF sensor) so I bought some throttle body cleaner and sprayed the MAF. However I noticed I had old cracked fittings on the vacuum lines

The vacuum line rubber fittings are so old they're cracked. So I bought some tubing and connectors and "modded" a new system.

Now however the SES light and Traction OFF light are coming on, it idles too high (then settles down) and I hear a hissing type sound from around tranny. When the idle comes back down the brake pedal goes down some too..

Here are some pics, what is the proper setup??
#1 (The vacuum line on top of engine, by wire bundle)



#2 (the canister off the tranny, by EBTCM)



#3 (the other end of #1)


Also, I built this modded system to temp handle it. Where can I get all new vacuum fittings and line for this??

thanks gang!!!

was it a bad idea to clean MAF with throttle body cleaner??
if it truly is bad, will it cause bad idle?

I think I've got some vacuum problems!

if you can then get silicone vacumlines.
they handle the heat better, bend better and hold tighter.
just be sure those lines are connected tight and not bended too much(so that it closes the line).

i shanged them tho on mine, but the tubes what i installed where too soft and i guess when the engine goes warm they may 'close' when the vacum rises.

i'm not 100% sure of my memory but i guess they seem to be in right place.

I'm wondering if I'm not pulling too much vac and they collapse too....

but I want to make sure I have proper attachments....

where to get silicon lines?

in ebay where some for sell.

just mesure the metal tubes where the lines connect to get the right size tubes. there should be 3 diferent sizes in tottal on a riv.

This is one source. There are many others though. Just search on Ebay Motors under Parts and Accessories, IIRC, and you should find other sources to look at.
Also, look in the Clearance section for deep discounts on vacuum and other hose.

www.hosetechniques.com

I have had good luck with the Mr. Gasket brand (little pricey) silicone lines and also the line sold by the foot at Frozenboost.com (made in china). The line made by Spectre sold at autozone in thin walled and will collapse more easily.
I had a problem with the plastic tees breaking, so i made metal ones, 1/4" npt iron pipe tee with brass hose barbs. 1/8 brass barbs are a little hard to find, Menards and Home Depot should carry them though

Its a car part now wrote:

I have had good luck with the Mr. Gasket brand (little pricey) silicone lines and also the line sold by the foot at Frozenboost.com (made in china). The line made by Spectre sold at autozone in thin walled and will collapse more easily.
I had a problem with the plastic tees breaking, so i made metal ones, 1/4" npt iron pipe tee with brass hose barbs. 1/8 brass barbs are a little hard to find, Menards and Home Depot should carry them though

How about some pic's of your remote oil filter and SS tanks ?

Okay....still having problems. still pulling a P0102 and the SES & Traction light go on.

It takes too long to come down to idle and during that the traction light is on.

Can someone check their vacuum line routing and tell me if I have mine right.

The line on the tranny I have connected to the BOTTOM double connector shown above in my first post

The line by the alternator I have connected to the TOP portion...but is that correct?

I just don't remember!

HELP!!!!!

Today I found about 5 broken/old vacuum line connections...I'd suggest you check yours!

Did you replace one at a time.?
Or did you lose track of what you had removed.?
Unfortunately the 95 and 96 are different than the rest.
Hopefully someone with a 1995/6 can confirm the proper location of all vacuum lines for you.!!!

sorta lost track....

I have it all in right spot...just not sure of which connector to attach the two...

help!

wow, the '96 has completely different vacuum lines than the '98. Sorry I can't be of much help here. Good luck!

I found the diagram in fsm the line in 1rst picture is attached to top port, the line to the trans-axle goes to the bottom port in the diagram.
The lines in the forth picture should work either way, the evap solenoid is just a valve that closes to block the line.

There is probably a loose fitting or crack in one of the lines somewhere.
I'll post diagram pic if i can figure out how to get camera and photobucket working.

could a bad MAF cause stuttering, bad idle (slow to return to idle) ??

Wondering if MAF is bad, and my vacuum repair was only making it worse......

Stumped!

Picture is to fuzzy to see much of anything,

the top port goes to evap purge valve(in forth pic),
line on other port of evac purge switch goes to evap vacuum switch,
line on other side of evap vacuum switch goes to metal line on fire wall to evap canister

The bottom port goes to tee, one side to transmission, other to manifold vacuum source(side of SC)
manifold vacuum source has one line to Fuel reg and one to super charger bypass solenoid
other side on bypass solenoid goes to bypass actuator
The other line on actuator goes to the fitting on top of SC
brake booster line also connets to fitting on top

Weird thing is that diagrams are labeled C/H-car in Aurora/Riviera manual