FAQ: Vacuum Hoses & Lines (Series II SC)

Yes I am going to invest in a scan tool. Question is, which one? Is the aeroforce scan gauge/tool a decent choice?

Aeroforce is a great option from what I've read. Read though the Tuning forum for info. Feel free to post any questions in those threads:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/f5-series-ii-scans-tuning-pcm

Just wondering if anyone still has a copy of this. Need this for my 97 as a reference. I have pictures of the engine but a diagram to print out and keep would be awesome!

the new s/c doesnt have the hook up on the top by the boost bypass valve (B).... i see a capped one very top (A) will that work for the vacuum lines i need? i think i will still have to T it for the fuel pressure regulator aand bottom of the boost bypass valve (C)..

There's a thread on this somewhere already so expect this to get moved there but "C" and your fuel pressure regulator (not pictured) both need to get a new hose run from the lower intake manifold underneath the snout area to work right. There's already an elbow there that run back to the map sensor on the other side of the blower but you will need to put another T in there to add those two items to that source. You can't use your vacuum cap (A) for those.

i went to 2 junk yards today found how it is ran, but all the T's are dry rotted and broke off... when to parts stores but because of the different size lines they could not find me anything.... any ideas? its for the one connecting to the lowwer intake by the snout. i have the single to large i need the T that goes big one one side and small straight through

just make your own.It doesnt really matter how big or small the lines are.As long as you dont go TOO oversize or undersize from the original line.Buy a few feet of approximate hose size closest to the oem size and do the same for the Tees.you should be OK.

i did that for the front between the fuel reg and BBV but the line wont fit over the one for the lowwer intake.... not sure how to rig it up to work.

The line your talking about is the one in the pic just dangling there? Get an fsm and trace it to where it goes

the one dangling is the vacuum line i am trying to find a T for and replace the elbow found 2 at the junkyard both dry rotted into 3 Pcs. lol one large 2 small holes on it so its not in the aftermarket... still looking for it got a friend at a dealship looking for me too.

http://www.gmpartseast.com/Page_Product/PartList.aspx?MakeUrl=buick&CatalogUrl=1998-riviera&ComponentCode=GM00350G01&SectionCode=00&EngineCode=L67&TransmissionCode=&ModelCode=4GD07&Vin=&ProductionDate=&VehicleInfo=&CatalogCode=45G&Year=

looks like i need part 558

that is a nice part.My vac line that goes from my tee to the trans,I thought it was a plastic line.Its all black and not too trick looking.Turns out its a steel line all powder coated.It looks similar to that 558.If that line ,558, is a steel line I would say get it.if its just a plastic line theyre gonna sell you for $30 or more bucks I say forget it. if the T that connects it all is less than a 1/4" id,you can pick that up at the parts store.And joining it all you could use whatever rubber line that fits on the Tee.
Other than a nice stock fit it doesnt matter what you use to connect the vac circuit.As long as it's leak proof.
save a few $. If money aint an issue..yur call...

Maybe theres a member in your area with your year,take a good look. In the pic I see 1 elbows and 2 Tees and a 2 splice connecters.

2000ws6transam wrote:

the one dangling is the vacuum line i am trying to find a T for and replace the elbow found 2 at the junkyard both dry rotted into 3 Pcs. lol one large 2 small holes on it so its not in the aftermarket... still looking for it got a friend at a dealship looking for me too.

you can splice it out - use a hard T and make splices out of shrt sections of vac hose and glue it together with RTV.

Alternately you should be able to get a vac T from a local CarQuest as 'shop supplies' (the one near me has them).

Finally - I had posted a note some time ago about replacing the "vacuum manifold" on my '98 - the 96 and later S-II SC engines use the same manifold. You can still get them from the dealer as of earlier this year BUT if your parts guy does not know the parts system he likely will never find it. Maybe AA can find my post about this from earlier this year - I tried and can't seem to find it. It has the new part numbers and such that you will need to get them to order you one.

The vac manifold comes with all the tees and all the hard line and all the elbows, all glued together.

Albertj

Hi guys my 96 riviera sc vacuum line is broke, the one right next to the mass air flow sensor on the throttle body, does anyone know where i can get a whole new line??

just go to your local parts store, they will cut you a new one.

Hi guys I just did my LIM gaskets and all is back together and car is running great, but I didn't hook up one vacuum line that goes to the alternator bracket and sensor, so my car battery light came on and I lost all power and died. I'm not sure where the vacuum lines behind the engine are suppose to go, can someone post a picture? Or a diagram?

That is the map sensor dude

And your evap solenoid purge is back there too

Got it all back together, the plug to the alternator wasn't plugged in that's why my power was lost, I'm an idiot lol sorry for the dumb questions

Does anyone have a part# on the vacuum tee in the front of the LIM red arrow just touched it, like everyone says it will and did  break. Does Dorman make it thanks Steve

Anyone replace this part thanks

I don't think those are available anymore. The last time I needed one here at the dealer, we had NAPA send over a bunch of vacuum tees and such to choose from. I don't recall the P/N I used. It ended up being "Mad Max'ed" anyway, but it worked.

Whatever you do be sure and replace that plastic elbow with an aluminum one.

Thanks Todd & Scott will hit the auto parts stores have the aluminum one already