Bad night.. Lots of oil and lots of smoke (carnage pics)

Well.. You guys.. Bad bad bad night.. Went to perkins with some friends.. left dropped one off.. and was going home.. Decided to do some WOT.. Well it started misfiring so i let off.. and it started CHUGGING.. reallly really bad.. and the SES light was flashing at me.. it was still driving.. so i drove it home about 5-6 blocks.. it starts smoking.. i'm like FML its on fire.. so i blow 2 stop signs.. its 1:15a.m. and i get home and pop the hood to see oil EVERYWHERE on the belt side.. It LOOKS like oil is spewing from in between the LIM and the block.. if i blew that orange gasket right there would that cause a HUGE vac leak? I am going to do a compression test in the A.M. Just want to know IF There is a leak In between the LIM and the block would that cause a vac leak?

Cliff notes: Travis is having car issues, hoping he didn't pop a piston, Would having a major leak in between the LIM and the block cause a HUGE vac leak??

thank you for any immediate assistance..


I will be doing a compression test/leak test in the A.M.

Yes, a LIM gasket would cause a major gasket leak, but it wouldn't be a big source of oil, unless you DID pop a piston and that's where the pressure busted through, and the air coming out is forcing oil out too.

Pull your spark plugs. The one that's smashed down flat... that's probably the one with the chunk missing from the piston.

Sorry to hear it man.

Damn E85!

(sorry to hear about this, Travis. Hope you didn't run the engine for very long without oil pressure.)

Can you say "Teardown"

AA wrote:

Damn E85!

(sorry to hear about this, Travis. Hope you didn't run the engine for very long without oil pressure.)

And to think i'll be using it again

My oil light never came on.

If i did chunk a piston.. I'm going to put in a N/A 9.4:1 block.. and use some head gaskets that will put it to about 9.7:1.. Moar Boost And Ill probably polish up the heads and put a XP cam in her.. BUT thats only if i roasted the motor.. If i did toast the motor I'm also going to have to get a winter beater... I'll just pull the motor and put it on a stand in the garage, than store my riv somewhere

Rickw wrote:

Can you say "Teardown"

Indeed

Quote :

My oil light never came on.

That's very good news! Might not be as bad as you think.

AA wrote:

Quote :

My oil light never came on.

That's very good news! Might not be as bad as you think.

I really hope so buddy... but this 9.7:1 compression build seemed pretty sweet!! Can you say 18lbs of boost??? From a M90+ spray?

I'm dreading going and pulling the plugs.. i don't wanna do it..

Wait, I missed something. You took the same route as Corey did last year? I can't believe people do this stuff!

98riviera98 wrote:

AA wrote:

Quote :

My oil light never came on.

That's very good news! Might not be as bad as you think.

I really hope so buddy... but this 9.7:1 compression build seemed pretty sweet!! Can you say 18lbs of boost??? From a M90+ spray?

I'm dreading going and pulling the plugs.. i don't wanna do it..

Dreading pulling plugs out?


imagine trying to pull the engine.

oldsman105 wrote:

98riviera98 wrote:

AA wrote:

Quote :

My oil light never came on.

That's very good news! Might not be as bad as you think.

I really hope so buddy... but this 9.7:1 compression build seemed pretty sweet!! Can you say 18lbs of boost??? From a M90+ spray?

I'm dreading going and pulling the plugs.. i don't wanna do it..

Dreading pulling plugs out?


imagine trying to pull the engine.

noooo not like that.. pulling plugs is easy brah.. I'm just saying.. i'm dreading the results...

Engine can be out in 4 hours easy.

Here's how it's done by the book!

1998 Buick Riviera V6-3.8L SC VIN 1
Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Service and Repair Engine Removal and Installation


Engine Removal and Installation
Notes

REMOVAL PROCEDURE


Remove the hood.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
Depressurize the fuel lines. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release in Powertrain Management.
Drain the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling the Coolant System in Cooling System.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove the radiator hoses. Refer to Radiator Hoses Replacement in Cooling System.
Remove the heater supply hoses.
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the engine block.
Disconnect the engine harness connector at the bulkhead.
Remove the drive belt. For the VIN 1, refer to Drive Belt Tensioner Replacement (VIN 1).
Remove the power steering pump. Set the pump aside. Refer to Power Steering Pump Replacement in Steering.
Remove the air flow duct.
Remove the throttle cable from the throttle linkage,
Remove the engine mounting bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement.
Remove the other applicable cables from the engine.
Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the following locations:
The MAT sensor
The throttle position sensor
The idle air control valve
The oxygen sensor
The A/C compressor
The oil pressure switch
The power steering cutout switch
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
The low oil level sensor
Remove the ignition coil assembly ground strap from the fender inner panel attaching screws.
Remove the fuel feed and return lines from the fuel rail and the pressure regulator.
Remove the emission control canister hoses from the throttle body connections.
Remove the brake booster from the engine vacuum connections.
Remove the heater control hoses from the engine vacuum connections.
Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
Remove the exhaust pipe from the right manifold.
Remove the A/C compressor from the engine. Tie the compressor back away from the engine.
Remove the engine to the transmission bracket.
Remove the flywheel cover. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement.
Remove the starter motor, Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Starting and Charging.
Remove the torque converter to flywheel bolts. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement. IMPORTANT: Use a scribe in order to mark the relationship between the flywheel and the torque converter. This ensures proper reassembly.
Lower the vehicle.
Attach a suitable lifting hook and a chain to the engine lifting bracket.
Raise the engine slightly in order to take weight off of the mounts.
Remove the torque axis engine mount. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement
Support the transmission.
Remove the engine to transmission bolts.
Separate the engine from the transmission.
Raise the engine.

well, what's the verdict?

Yeah Travis, have you removed the hood yet?

"Remove the ignition coil assembly ground strap from the fender inner panel attaching screws."

Copied the above from previous post on engine removal procedure.
Does anyone know where on the fender this is located.??? I only know about the ground lead right at the coil pack to block.
Just curios for future troubleshooting of bad grounds related to the coils. Could be important.

Rickw wrote:

"Remove the ignition coil assembly ground strap from the fender inner panel attaching screws."

Copied the above from previous post on engine removal procedure.
Does anyone know where on the fender this is located.??? I only know about the ground lead right at the coil pack to block.
Just curios for future troubleshooting of bad grounds related to the coils. Could be important.

IIRC it's about a 10-12 gauge black wire runs up from the passenger side frame rail, within a foot of the firewall, up to the ignition module.

There are a couple other 'grounds that time forgot' under the rear seat passenger side and under the drivers side dash. Have not had a problem with the underdash one and I think it could be ignored pretty much. If you are ever under the dash to work on the ratchet for the emergency brake, mess with it then. However - I check and clean the one under the rear seat along with regular battery maintenance. If you have an OE battery, once a year to make sure the vent pipes are still on right and check for corrosion ought to be enough.

Albertj

Thanks Albert, will have to look for it and add it to the list.

Rickw wrote:

Thanks Albert, will have to look for it and add it to the list.

might want to look for a stud or a used-to-be-a-stud on that frame rail.

So basically there are 2 grounds on the passenger side frame rail. A fat one goes to the starter and a smaller one goes to that wire.

Albertj

Thanks again, Will do before it's too cold to do it.
I have neglected looking under my back seat for a loooong time. I'm over due for some preventive maintenance on electrical / ground connections.
Would like to put some EDead under back seat area while I'm there also.

Poll added... Take your votes...

Just tear the friggin thing down and post your results instead of posting a juvenile poll.

98riviera98 wrote:

Poll added... Take your votes...

Travis, I 'dinged' you for that one.

And on behalf of RIck and myself, sorry about jacking your thread to talk about grounds.

Anyway - when life gives lemons, make lemonade and sell produce. Thinking about it, this might be a good time to get a used SC engine and overhaul it then install it in your Riv. Just think... the engine that embodies all the wisdom, hints and tips for powering a Riv that is quicker than 13 sec in the 1/4 mile... since you're in for some work anyway...

maybe a local vocational school will do the work if you buy the parts..

Albertj

I'm guessing the notorious piston #3! (my 2nd guess is #4)

You immature little baby. Wacking me with negatives......Ha,HA,HA