FAQ: Maintenance Lessons - first 200,000 miles

Like a Riviera Douche! Stay clean, stay fresh.....

Eldo wrote:

I've been shocked at some of the rust I've seen on the site... What do they use, like 1 inch of salt for every inch of snow?!?

Those of us in the salt belt are shocked by the nice rust free cars sitting in junkyards out West!

Cars that are parked in heated garages rust faster than those that sit in the cold with all the crud frozen to the car.
The constant thawing allows the salt to really do it's destructive thing.
Sometimes it's better to leave it alone.
I go against the flow in that during winter, I like to wash my cars when it is going to be below zero. They stay clean for a longer period of time. Just gotta work the locks and windows once or twice and your fine.
When spring rolls around and we get our first warm days I shake my head at those lined up outside car washes. Waste of money in my mind since they won't get a block down the road and it will be covered in salty road spray again.

Sweepspear wrote:

I like to wash my cars when it is going to be below zero. They stay clean for a longer period of time. Just gotta work the locks and windows once or twice and your fine.

I do that and the windows freeze to the rubber. That's how I broke my door handle last year

Abaddon wrote:

Sweepspear wrote:

I like to wash my cars when it is going to be below zero. They stay clean for a longer period of time. Just gotta work the locks and windows once or twice and your fine.

I do that and the windows freeze to the rubber. That's how I broke my door handle last year

I should have also mentioned I also wipe the weatherstrip with WD-40 or a Silicone.

Abaddon wrote:

Like a Riviera Douche! Stay clean, stay fresh.....

i almost pissed myself laughin!!!!

Sweepspear wrote:

Abaddon wrote:

Sweepspear wrote:

I like to wash my cars when it is going to be below zero. They stay clean for a longer period of time. Just gotta work the locks and windows once or twice and your fine.

I do that and the windows freeze to the rubber. That's how I broke my door handle last year

I should have also mentioned I also wipe the weatherstrip with WD-40 or a Silicone.

Silicone, definitely... An oil-based product, such as WD-40, will damage the rubber.

(And I just knew those damned plastic door handles were gonna' be a problem! If I'm in a hurry, or have to pull the door uphill, I've taken to unlatching with the handle and then using the edge of the door metal or the bottom of the window glass to pull...)

Another thing that can be overlooked is a failing rear transmission mount. I did not think to address this when I had the transmission out for rebuild at 151k miles. Around 200k I noticed a metallic 'thunk-thunk' sound around hard corners that was confirmed by a professional to be the rear mount failing.

The mount itself is less than $35 shipped, but getting to it for replacement is a chore. Whenever having work done that involves removal of the transmission, inspect the mount(s) and replace accordingly. Will save you the headache of installation later on.

Eldo wrote:

Sweepspear wrote:

Abaddon wrote:

Sweepspear wrote:

I like to wash my cars when it is going to be below zero. They stay clean for a longer period of time. Just gotta work the locks and windows once or twice and your fine.

I do that and the windows freeze to the rubber. That's how I broke my door handle last year

I should have also mentioned I also wipe the weatherstrip with WD-40 or a Silicone.

Silicone, definitely... An oil-based product, such as WD-40, will damage the rubber.

(And I just knew those damned plastic door handles were gonna' be a problem! If I'm in a hurry, or have to pull the door uphill, I've taken to unlatching with the handle and then using the edge of the door metal or the bottom of the window glass to pull...)

"Tune up grease' is best for those pesky rubber seals - it is a silicone, dimethylpolysiloxane.

Albertj

i still have a can of GM Dielectric Lubricant

GM# 12377900.

It comes in a screw top 2 oz. can

Don't know if has the same basic ingredient that Albert is referring to, but I have used this sparingly on all my window seals for the past several years (same can) with an 3/8" to 1/2" acid brush and just apply to seals and let soak in while weather is warm.
Forget about using it in the winter, this is too thick in ambient cold temps.
But if used before the winter, like now or within the next few weeks it will keep the seals soft for northern cold winters.

Rickw wrote:

i still have a can of GM Dielectric Lubricant

GM# 12377900.

It comes in a screw top 2 oz. can

Don't know if has the same basic ingredient that Albert is referring to, but I have used this sparingly on all my window seals for the past several years (same can) with an 3/8" to 1/2" acid brush and just apply to seals and let soak in while weather is warm.
Forget about using it in the winter, this is too thick in ambient cold temps.
But if used before the winter, like now or within the next few weeks it will keep the seals soft for northern cold winters.

Yeah.

Albertj

AA wrote:

Another thing that can be overlooked is a failing rear transmission mount. I did not think to address this when I had the transmission out for rebuild at 151k miles. Around 200k I noticed a metallic 'thunk-thunk' sound around hard corners that was confirmed by a professional to be the rear mount failing.

The mount itself is less than $35 shipped, but getting to it for replacement is a chore. Whenever having work done that involves removal of the transmission, inspect the mount(s) and replace accordingly. Will save you the headache of installation later on.

Aaron, I paid $300.00 for my last rear mount.

Can I ask where you got one for $30.00 as I should buy one and fill it with urethane before swapping it out when I do the front Sway Bar.
Which is coming up soon.
Thanks,
Rick

Rockauto. It's $46 now, and includes the metal bracket. I purchased the rubber mount only for $27 (no longer in stock).

All I have seen on Rock Auto is the front mount, not the rear one.
Am I looking in the wrong place.?
Do you have a P/N by any chance.
Thanks,
Rick

p.s. would like to order tonight or tomorrow.

albertj wrote:

"Tune up grease' is best for those pesky rubber seals - it is a silicone, dimethylpolysiloxane.
Albertj

Rickw wrote:

i still have a can of GM Dielectric Lubricant

GM# 12377900.

Are you guys talking about distributor-cam lube, or maybe spark-plug boot grease?
.

More info on the rear mount:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-ii-engine-transmission-f4/write-up-rear-motor-transmission-mount-t6797-30.htm

Eldo wrote:

albertj wrote:

"Tune up grease' is best for those pesky rubber seals - it is a silicone, dimethylpolysiloxane.
Albertj

Rickw wrote:

i still have a can of GM Dielectric Lubricant

GM# 12377900.

It's not sold as distributor cam grease and is clear in color.

It is what I said it is, Dielectric Lubricant (per the can) or grease
Are you guys talking about distributor-cam lube, or maybe spark-plug boot grease?
.

Stop at your friendly GM Dealer and buy or order a can of the above mentioned stuff, if you are really interested.

Rickw wrote:

Eldo wrote:

albertj wrote:

"Tune up grease' is best for those pesky rubber seals - it is a silicone, dimethylpolysiloxane.
Albertj

Rickw wrote:

i still have a can of GM Dielectric Lubricant

GM# 12377900.

It's not sold as distributor cam grease and is clear in color.

It is what I said it is, Dielectric Lubricant (per the can) or grease
Are you guys talking about distributor-cam lube, or maybe spark-plug boot grease?
.

Yessssss? And the answer is?

Eldo wrote:

Rickw wrote:

Eldo wrote:

albertj wrote:

"Tune up grease' is best for those pesky rubber seals - it is a silicone, dimethylpolysiloxane.
Albertj

Rickw wrote:

i still have a can of GM Dielectric Lubricant

GM# 12377900.

It's not sold as distributor cam grease and is clear in color.

It is what I said it is, Dielectric Lubricant (per the can) or grease
Are you guys talking about distributor-cam lube, or maybe spark-plug boot grease?
.

Yessssss? And the answer is?

Lick me and look above for the GM P/N.

Eldo wrote:

albertj wrote:

"Tune up grease' is best for those pesky rubber seals - it is a silicone, dimethylpolysiloxane.
Albertj

Rickw wrote:

i still have a can of GM Dielectric Lubricant

GM# 12377900.

Are you guys talking about distributor-cam lube, or maybe spark-plug boot grease?
.

In general, yes and yes - you have to refer to the label or MSDS for the product to confirm. Dimethylpolysiloxane is also used in brake caliper lube, and was the 'secret sauce' in Westley's Auto Polish. It's a dielectric hi-temp lube. CRC sells it in pressure cans for about $14 as 'di-electric grease' or some such. The GM PN should cost $12 to $15 at a dealer. Not sure it's a lifetime supply, but it's fair to say a little goes a long way.

When I use it on brakes I mix it with copper anti-seize.

Albertj

Thanks guys. I see that CRC (generally easier to find) does have "Polydimethylsiloxane" in it's aerosol Heavy Duty Silicone Lubricant...
I guess you lay it out in small doses like Cheese Whiz, and then spread it thin with a cloth.

Just happen to have a can of it on the shelf that I bought from NAPA.

It has the both the NAPA logo and the CRC logo on the can.
And is has the magic ingredient on the label.

The aerosol version contains Acetone so don't spray it on your paint. Suggest spraying on a cloth and then applying to the door seal.

Didn't even remember I bought it till now. I'll try to do a few applications before the cold weather sets in.

I just tried some of the aerosol and because of the Acetone in it, it is too thin.
It is not like cheese wiz. It's a fine mist aerosol.

I think I'll go back to the grease or try thinning the grease with some of this stuff.

After that little experiment, I think I'll stick to the GM stuff and apply with finger.
If you want to thin it a little just use some liquid Acetone. just a few drops into the GM 2 oz. container and it was just the right consistency for lubing the door seals very nicely.

Just for reference, 2 oz. may not seem like a lot, but all I have used it on every year is the rubber seals before winter and I still have the same container of it for over 6 years now.
Just use it sparingly and spread it out with your finger. And I just figured out to thin it a tad with acetone and it will last even longer.

Thanks for the test-run, Rick. It appears that there is some semantic confusion with CRC, because they have both liquid and paste silicone lubes in "pressurized" cans - thus you can choose to lay the bead of Cheese Whiz or douse a rag with the 'true' aerosol...
(However, I couldn't find the magic ingredient in the MSDS for the goop, only the spray...)

I would go to your friendly local GM dealer and get a container of this grease and thin accordingly.
You have much better application with the GM Grease that the aerosol on a cloth.
The aerosol on a clothe just seemed to want to dry out the seal faster.
At least with the light coating of thin grease you can see what your applying and how much.
You'll need to your door seals a little thinner than say the trunk or hood because you could get a little on you if you apply it too thick.
But you can apply it just right, still lube the seal and help it swell and stay soft without it getting on your clothes.
Then just do a second coat maybe a couple of weeks apart.
This same product always stopped the rear window in my Blazer from rattling when the seal shrunk and it wouldn't freeze to it in the winter.
And like I said, used properly it lasts a long time.

I just keep a Tube of Dielectric in addition to the small can for when I want to grease an electrical connection or the spark plug boots, etc.

I would not use the aerosol silicone on the seals or tires.

As for thinning the dimethylpolysiloxane goop, DOT-5 brake fluid (the kind that does not attack paint) will work fine.

Albertj