FAQ: Maintenance Lessons - first 200,000 miles

albertj wrote:

I would not use the aerosol silicone on the seals or tires.

As for thinning the dimethylpolysiloxane goop, DOT-5 brake fluid (the kind that does not attack paint) will work fine.

Albertj

Thanks again Albert, this time for the DOT 5 Tip.

I usually have a bottle around as both bikes take dot 5. And get flushed every other year.

Rickw wrote:

albertj wrote:

I would not use the aerosol silicone on the seals or tires.

As for thinning the dimethylpolysiloxane goop, DOT-5 brake fluid (the kind that does not attack paint) will work fine.

Albertj

Thanks again Albert, this time for the DOT 5 Tip.

I usually have a bottle around as both bikes take dot 5. And get flushed every other year.

That's what I use, DOT 5. Helps if it is warm. It also disolves in soapy (detergent) water, and will "protect" paint, but you wanna think twice about doing that because it loads the paint with silicones and can make it very difficult to repaint the finish.

It was the case for quite a while that "Wash and Wax" solutions (like Blue Coral) the "wax" was a little Carnauba and a lotta dimethylpolysiloxane. I am not aware of any car wash liquid maker that is putting the stuff in anymore, although I imagine that someone somewhere is.

Albertj

WHat about leather upholstery care? I like KIWI saddle soap (the kind that comes in a can, sold alongside the shoe polish). I have used the Blue Coral 2-part cleaner and preservative; I have used Lexol.

My fave (for "value") is saddle soap, hands down.

Blue Coral 2-part is good. leaves nice finish and good aroma.

Lexol darkens the leather a little but leaves it softer than anything else I can think of.

I also make sure when I am vacuuming out the car to vac out the stitched seams in the seats.

What say you?

Albertj

[from http://www.waynesgarage.com/maint.html]

Based on roadside assistance data from Auto Club contracted tow truck operators, the Club's Top Ten List of maintenance-related car breakdown causes (not necessarily ranked in order of frequency) are:

Ignoring brake noises or warnings.
Ignoring fluid leaks
Ignoring dashboard warning signs or gauges
Worn battery or bad battery connection
Worn or cracked belts or hoses/loose hose or belt connection
Not checking or changing fluids
Not rotating, aligning or inflating tires.
Worn universal/constant velocity joints on drive shaft
Ignoring noise or vibrations from water pump
Not changing fuel filter

Just had an exchange with ZEP about brakes - upshot is that the owner's manual; does not say, I think, to replace brake fluid every couple years.

Brake fluid turns dark as it takes on water. When the fluid is the color of maple syrup it is past time to change it.

Not changing it - based on experience of other list members - will let enough water accumulate to rust out the ABS system. Consider changing the brake fluid when it turns dark.

Albertj

So i bought a 97 sc Riv with around 150xxx on it, and it has a bad motor. I just bought an engine and trans out of a 97 GTP with 105xxx on the motor and 5000 on the rebuilt trans. The motor has P&P blower and LIM, headers, ZZP throttle body. I am going to put 1.9 aluminum rockers, pushrods, and 90# springs in it.
My question is... While i have everything out of the car, what should i go through the trouble (expense) of replacing? Timing chain? Water pump? Pulleys? Axles?

I would replace the water pump and pulleys for sure. Wouldn't worry about timing chain yet - should last another 150k at least, maybe longer.

The pulleys do seem pretty sloppy. Do you think its worth it to go for the 8 rib ones?

Sir Psycho Sexy wrote:

The pulleys do seem pretty sloppy. Do you think its worth it to go for the 8 rib ones?

8 rib pullies are not necessary until you get down to a very very small pulley, which will require a cam and head work to support, etc. Nothing you can push through 1.9 rockers will make use of the 8 rib pulley.

Side note/question - has anyone put an 8 rib pulley on a 3800 with the front engine mount bracket like ours have? I'm not sure there is enough room for the idler!

deekster_caddy wrote:

Sir Psycho Sexy wrote:

The pulleys do seem pretty sloppy. Do you think its worth it to go for the 8 rib ones?

8 rib pullies are not necessary until you get down to a very very small pulley, which will require a cam and head work to support, etc. Nothing you can push through 1.9 rockers will make use of the 8 rib pulley.

Side note/question - has anyone put an 8 rib pulley on a 3800 with the front engine mount bracket like ours have? I'm not sure there is enough room for the idler!

pretty sure Cody has (TURTLED00D)

deekster_caddy wrote:

Side note/question - has anyone put an 8 rib pulley on a 3800 with the front engine mount bracket like ours have? I'm not sure there is enough room for the idler!

Never even considered that! The smallest i plan on going is 3.2. I think with the mods i have in mind i ought to be able to run that safely, but if i cant, i have no problem running a 3.4 or whatever. 6 rib it is!
Is the dealership the best place to get those?

I really don't think you'll be able to run a 3.2 on 1.9 rockers safely.

The smaller pulleys are available from a couple of sources - Intense racing, ZZP performance, Pulley Boys are a few vendors of MPS (multiple pulley systems) - basically a press-on hub with bolt-on pullies. Your OEM pulley is press-on only. There are press-on replacements but that kind of locks you into one size.

The engine i bought has a ZZP MPS on it right now and the guy gave me a 3.0 and 3.2 pulley (he was running IC) even with the 1.9s, headers, P&P blower and LIM, and a tune (and all the little supporting mods), you dont think i would be able to go 3.2? Should i go for a cam?

This will be my daily driver so i dont want to go completely balls to the wall, but i want it to be quicker than my stock Riv.

Quote :

(he was running IC)

Here is the answer to your question. Just put the IC back on and you can run a 3.2" no problem.

If i can find a good deal on one im doing it!!!

Make sure you dont mess up that trans! Who was it that said our cars have a different case or something?

I knew someone was going to bring that up! Haha yup i made sure before i bought it, its got the 4 mounting holes and the webbing on the back

AA wrote:

Quote :

(he was running IC)

Here is the answer to your question. Just put the IC back on and you can run a 3.2" no problem.

Running an IC makes a big big difference in what you can do.

Been saving up and now preparing to buy everything I need to change out my front right wheel bearing/hub, power steering pump, water pump, supercharger coupler, as well as cleaning injectors, cleaning various reservoirs (coolant, washer, etc), replacing vac and coolant lines....and then repainting everything up nicely if I have the time and mayyyybe switching out the ac comp IF I can afford it... Excited? Nope

Anything else that one would recommend being done while I've got the top open and the alt/bracket etc off?

llamalor2112 wrote:

Anything else that one would recommend being done while I've got the top open and the alt/bracket etc off?

Valve Cover gaskets maybe?


Ordered my Aluminum Oil Pan today NIB. It'll be here Saturday morning. I know what I'm doing at work that day....

Depending on how much you're going to have off, you could go for a port/polish. It's a lot of work, but seems to be worth it. I'd like to do mine someday.

matt270avian wrote:

Depending on how much you're going to have off, you could go for a port/polish. It's a lot of work, but seems to be worth it. I'd like to do mine someday.

Oh it is!  

Sorry, my cars been done for a bit now, im just a lazy mofo who hasnt taken any pics or made a thread.

Check your rack and pinion for leaks. Clean out your engine well and inspect the cooling systems, flushing the radiator if necessary.

Ok let's see here, so far what I'll have gotten after this is...
New brakes, bearing/hubs, tires, radiator, water pump, power steering, supercharger coupler, plugs, wires, cleaned throttle

What else is typical to go out between 100-125k miles?

I did the tranny pan gasket and with the motor out I'd do the oil pan gasket. Fuel lines are problematic. Mine cracked along the firewall.